JayPolos

Are there any real differences between either intakes? The only difference in two to me is the price, would anyone know of any other factors that make each one unique?

evolaerok

I had both and really both have the same purpose and same function. The injen is very nice and I like it better, but I took it off for two reasons. I wanted to keep away from the scattered look you know H&R, comptech, aem, injen.... I just wanted a clean mod list. Another reason is the AEM sounds quieter @ high rpms. The injen made a roar that is still in my mind, but for liveability reasons swaped out for the quieter AEM.

JayPolos

Thanks Evolaerok! I'll go with the quieter AEM, I don't wanna drive around sounding like a 747!!

jnltf24

Can't go wrong with either but I agree with evolaerok! The AEM sound is just right for me! Hope you like it too.

evolaerok

One more thing, the Injen fits better than the AEM. I had to cut a little bit off of the AEM, because it kept hitting my left fog.

JayPolos

So how much tweaking is involved in order to install the intake? I'm not really mechanically inclined, and I wouldn't wanna ruin something!! If you feel that the injen's a quicker, less involved install, then I might just opt for that. The difference between either intake is just sound? If you're sayin' the injen's louder, just how much louder? Is it more noticeable at low rpm's than high?

edgalang

I have the Injen and I cut 3/4 of an inch off to make SURE it never hits the back of the fog light assembly. As for its loudness...I never hear it until the butterfly valve opens up (which is right before the VTEC turns on). As for the differences between the 2 pipes, my injen only has 2 curves, while the AEM I believe curves 3 times (correct me if I'm wrong, but that's what it looks like after inpecting V.Perkin's setup with the bi-pass valve).

evolaerok

*sigh I don't have any equipment, but driving them back to back the injen just seems a little louder. A little.

Austin519

JayPolos:
I didn't have to cut any off my AEM CAI...and I installed the bypass valve only cutting what they said...no problem. It's difficult to fit in...but there's a nook under there that if you get it in there, you're set.

Austin519

JayPolos

Thanks Austin519, evolaerok, & edgalang! I'm gonna hafta make a weekend out of it, or have someone do the install themselves. Do you think it makes sense to do this, this is a leased car?

edgalang

Doh! That changes everything then....uh...in your case, I cant comment. The most I'll do on a leased car is probably rims/tires since you could probably reuse it on the next car, unlike the intake or any other mods that is car specific. For that price, I'd get a radar detector instead, at least you could swap it out.

JayPolos

Sounds good edgalang, I'mma do some deeeeeeeeeep considering over the next 5 minutes...My priorities are shot!!

edgalang

Glad to be of service. The way I see it is, why would you mod a car that isn't even yours? If you are, at least buy stuff that you can keep with you in case you have to give it back.

JayPolos

Yea', I definately agree!! But the sweet sound of an intake suckin' up all that air at full throttle...It's irresistable!! I'm startin' to get the shakes man, I can't resist temptation!!

Austin519

JayPolos:
Hmm...with a leased car...I'd still do it actually. Buy a used one from someone selling one here...get it at maybe $150...then resell it here...for like $100. You should definitely get a buyer...and you'll only be out $50. That's what I'd do. Just make sure to keep ALL your parts

Austin519

JayPolos

Austin, it sounds like a plan, but getting a USED intake sounds a lil' iffy to me. On your standpoint, do you think it'd be safe for me to invest my money into something that's been used, and possibly abused? Even though it's just a simple pipe with not much room for error or damage, there's always that "what if?"

Austin519

JayPolos:
"Austin, it sounds like a plan, but getting a USED intake sounds a lil' iffy to me. On your standpoint, do you think it'd be safe for me to invest my money into something that's been used, and possibly abused? Even though it's just a simple pipe with not much room for error or damage, there's always that "what if?""

There's really not a what-if. You just need to get pictures of the pipe, the filter, possibly the receipt if they have it. Find out how old it is, how long they've had it, and where they live (so you know the weather conditions they've been in). But no matter what...those K&N filters last >100k miles, and the pipe is just a mandrel bent 3" wide aluminum pipe, it has two hoses, 4 clamps, a gasket that attaches to the engine, and 3 clamp rings (two for the gasket one for the filter)...seriously not much can go wrong. And just make them promise everything is in working order w/o defects, and pay via Paypal so you can get reimbursed if something goes wrong.

Austin519

JayPolos

Damn, you're the man Austin!!

Austin519

JayPolos:
Just trying to save you some cash man I bought my exhaust used...for about half what it costs on here, and I've had no problems. I usually buy all my stuff used...looking for headers now

Austin519

edgalang

Uh.....I'll seel you my "partially" used Redline 5w20 for a $1 a quart. lol That's an 87% off savings! and you'll still have 2,500 miles on em to go! (considering if you go by Redlines claimed 10k mile oil change ability.)

Austin519

edgalang:
Woohoo!!! I'm so there. Hell, I'd save like $12 on that...and with shipping...I'd just about break even! Alright!!!!

Austin519

JayPolos

lol, used route sounds good!! What if someone's got a used CL-S intake, would it be possible for it to fit the TL-S?

InspectorGadget

What is the purpose and function of the "bypass valve"?

Is it optional?

Thanks.

edgalang

Wait a sec. save 12?! You mean you get your 5 quarts for $17?!

evolaerok

The purpose of the bypass valve is to keep water out of the engine and keep from hydrolock. I live in Colorado and it rains, snows, etc alot here so I went ahead and got it. It's only like a 50 bucks or so and it will save you thousands in those situations. How it works? It works like a straw with a hole in it.

Go here and it'll explain it....
http://www.aempower.com/by_pass.htm

EricL

It also loses power via turbulence and it will suck in hot air when the car has been idling or running at slow speeds (only at wide open throttle [WOT]). The valve opens way too easily (IMO) and it also leaks outward. I talked to AEM and they admitted that it lost power (just from turbulence alone); they said that if I was a "serious" racer to add a 3" section of hose (to replace the valve) to get the power back -- they are a bit sensitive about the issue, but it will save your car if you go scuba diving with it.

If you want to get that last HP out the unit in the summer, take a 3" hose and put in the place of the bypass valve. You will cut down on the turbulent flow inside of the valve and keep the hot air out of it. (My valve is sitting in a box *and * will probably be sitting there for a long time.)

Just a suggestion...

edgalang

Sweet! This is news to me.

juniorbean

iTrader: (5)

See that's funny b/c I went with the Injen and it IS quiet at high RPM. Plus, most of your driving is at low RPM... I mean, even if you're a hard driver you're only in VTEC range for a short time. It's actually so low that I had to turn down my radio to have my fiance hear the sound. This could be b/c my CL had a short ram intake which sounded like a Cesna at VTEC range. Anyway, I went with the Injen b/c everyone who had it said the fit was great where as the AEM needed some trimming. I opted to install the AEM By-Pass and everything still fit perfectly. I also read on here that the Injen seems to give a little more low to mid range ooomph then the AEM did. Also, check this out....I had a problem with one of the hoses (I messed it up) and Injen sent me 2 new hoses within days via UPS at no charge!!

TedV

I have been considering an intake as well and have read the numerous posts about them on this site. My experience with intakes is that you tend to lose a little low end grunt to make more mid and high rpm power. Also, that you are only making like maybe 3-5 hp at the most and that is at WOT. So, is it really worth it when they cost what they do? I have been considering the Injen due to the fact that most owners say they fit so well and work well and look great for the money. However, I live in the Northeast and with all the rain and snow would have to get the bypass. So, between the torque loss and turbulence do you really think it is worth it??????

juniorbean

iTrader: (5)

I live in the NE and I have a by-pass and I love it. The car definitely has more pull in the low to mid-range, so I don't think any torque was lost. From about 2k - 5k RPMs, it feels peppier. In VTEC it gained a little, but I feel more in the mid-range. From what I've read, the AEM is more mid-high range RPMs. Either way, the Injen was about $200 plus $45 for the by-pass... not too expensive. It took a little while to install, but it looks, sounds, and feels soooo sweet. Worth every penny. My advise to you if you're unsure. Wait until spring, go to a local meet, and ride with someone who has one....

edgalang

Finally, a solid response that's unarguable. I second that.

Austin519

Okay you guys are nuts. Few things...

TedV:
"I have been considering an intake as well and have read the numerous posts about them on this site. My experience with intakes is that you tend to lose a little low end grunt to make more mid and high rpm power. Also, that you are only making like maybe 3-5 hp at the most and that is at WOT. So, is it really worth it when they cost what they do? I have been considering the Injen due to the fact that most owners say they fit so well and work well and look great for the money. However, I live in the Northeast and with all the rain and snow would have to get the bypass. So, between the torque loss and turbulence do you really think it is worth it??????"

Low end grunt as classified as? There are numerous dynos with a usual gain of 8-15 HP, depending on the car type, mods, weather, etc. I seem to be finding AEMs for the same price as Injens...through groupbuycenter...but yes, through Tim Injen is cheaper. Now...torque loss and turbulence loss...go check the dynos or torque loss, but you don't lose torque. That's with exhausts, not intakes. And all of you debating which is better read this too. An intake is JUST a piece of pipe. That is IT. Nothing else. So the differences in gains from piping will be practically nonexistant (not even 1 hp). The straighter the pipe the better, even so we're not talking 90-120 degree bends here. Heck, you could polish and coat the inside of your pipe with the same stuff they use on high speed aircraft to get the air to "slide" across but you won't notice the difference. The only difference between the two intakes is the filter, and both filters are comparable. You can find specific tests for flow volume on those too if you like, there still won't be much of a difference.

Now as for this torque issue. No, you don't lose low end torque. Why? Well in the basics of how the CAI functions...all it does is serve as a means to increase the amount of oxygen in the engine per pull, as well as serve to cool the engine (colder air) to some degree. So the fuel sensors feed the engine more gas. More air+more gas in the same amount of time leads to MORE torque and MORE hp...not losses. It wouldn't make sense in terms of physics if that wasn't true. There is also no RPM range difference between the two intakes. Think in terms of what this thing is...not what people have said on the forum. Oh and just some FYI...I ended up getting my AEM silver CAI ($182) with bypass ($30) with shipping ($10) for a total of $222.

Austin519

evolaerok

You go Austin! Oh I forgot to reply to you in the other post, but............ I fvck better than you! Even if I'm asian! :p

Austin519

evolaerok:
Heh heh do you now? Ya know...although everyone says the motion of the ocean is better than the size of the wave...well...if you're dealing with a tsunami (me) the motion just really doesn't matter Heh heh heh. Tell ya what though. If you have a girlfriend good, if you don't go get one...then I'll give her a ride, then you give her a ride, and I will a few more times, try to pull her away from me , and we'll let her tell us who's better. Sound good? Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha...

And about the Asian thing...dude all I have to say is Kobe Tai...!!!

Austin519

edgalang

I think you must be reffering to -(korealove) if anybody. But to defend EricL's post, he never mentioned anything about torque loss. His argument, and as with mine, is that it's not the pipe (unless you start bending the pipes more than 90 degrees and sh*t) but its whether or not the bi-pass would affect performance.

evolaerok

LoLz! Yeah I have wife and a girlfriend(kidding)... You can go fvck my ex wife though, I don't care... Really though I'm just trying to change the subject or get the thread closed, because all of this is just nonsense. It's just a metal pipe folks, they both serve the same purpose.

Austin519

evolaerok:
Ha ha ha...yeah I may have to pass on that one

edgalang:
Actually referring to TedV...specifically "So, between the torque loss and turbulence do you really think it is worth it??????"


Austin519
p.s. - about the turbulence...there won't be much and even so, the mild turbulence you will experience shouldn't be TOO much of a problem...nor should the valve leaking. Think about it this way...the way the engine would suffer is if negative pressure was created. Now that is created with the CAI's installation, because you have to draw air in through a pipe, a long one at that, and so negative pressure is created. And the engine DOES have to draw it harder than if it was a short ram, or open pipe...but the fact that the air is colder more than makes up for that fact. Now, the two things about the bypass valve, 1) that is leaks and 2) that it causes turbulence...well #1 is more threatening than #2, at least from physics standpoint, because leaking in hotter air from inside the hood brings it back down to a more stock-type situation. But the valves don't leak much, if at all. No I haven't done a full WOT test, but I have done a smoke test revving it in neutral to see if it leaked when I installed it, and it didn't. Even if they do leak, it isn't much and so the hotter air issue isn't too much of a problem. As for #2, the turbulence, yes I am sure that the valve sets up turbulence...but luckily it's not blocking turbulence...aka the valve isn't sticking into the tube...instead it's making a ^ shape rotated around the tube. So the air can freely move within the tube from a cross sectional standpoint. I also seriously doubt that the bypass sets up vortexes within the tube...so any turbulence induced shouldn't be a problem. Again, you can compare it like this. The only way turbulence would matter would be if it was creating negative pressure from the engine's standpoint. Now, if you compare the positive pressure (pressure of air pushing into the engine, sucked is an improper term actually) to any kind of negative pressure created by the bypass, you'll see they are on totally different scales...if I had to guess at least 10^5 or so. Am I a fluid dynamics guy? No, so I can't tell you for sure...I could get some of my aerospace friends to analyze it though if you guys really want that.

Austin519

edgalang

That would be much appreciated. I hate having to "guess", oh and throw in the Vortex Tornado in there too while yer at it. :p BTW if you read carefully, EricL did mention that AEM themselves even stated that you loose power. Wouldn't that be enough for you to beleive that it does since it came straight from the manufacturer? I'm not trying to justify not getting one since I've already made my mind long ago. I'm just doing it for the argumentative point about it loosing power or not...regardless of how minute.

Austin519

edgalang:
My point was not that it didn't lose power...my point was that it doesn't lose much. Probably not even a measurable amount on a dyno. So no AEM I'm sure is telling the truth...I just put forth the argument "it's not that much power you're losing" and of course...not losing a measureable amount of power...versus freaking out when I'm at WOT and hit an Austin Texas mud puddle (read: small lake) is a good bargain.

Austin519

edgalang

If it's so minute then why was it mentioned in the first place? And if its not measurable, then how did AEM even know there was HP to be lost if it wasnt able to be seen in the dyno? I'm not arguing that it robs alot...I just find it funny that we keep going in circles about the subject matter, and I was merley defending EricL's original post. I'd rather believe him more than others since I do tend to side with those who's been there and done that. I do also know that the bi-pass valve is always being redesigned, so although both of you may have the valve, there is no guarantee that they are completely identical.