Hey guys,

I've been having problems with my IAC and followed the DIY to clean it. The only problem was that my IAC valve had two FIVE POINT (NOT TORX) screws that attached the sensor portion to the actual valve. Does anybody know where to find this type of screw driver? I cannot get the valve completely clean without removing this sensor and i'm having terrible idling issues

 

Just checked - mine are 6 point, sorry. Have you tried Harbor Freight in Woodstock or Northern Tool in Marietta?

 

You shouldnt have to take that off to clean the valve. I went and played with the one i have laying around and i was able to take a small flat head screw driver to remove them (though i believe you are the first to try to do so to clean)

 

This is what you're looking for..click HERE

 

Awesome- thank you!! Have you tested the size out?

 

I cleaned the valve (the little door inside opened and shut easily), but did not remove the sensor and reinstalled. I'm still having idle issues as well as CEL/TCS lights..not to mention 200 miles to a tank. I want to try and clean the whole thing out before I shell out $100 bucks on the sensor.

 

I couldn't clean mine either. I ended up just going to acura and getting another one. Problems solved for me anyway.

 

Did you get the codes read

 

i was going to today but the CEL went off

still reving from 1-2k rpms in park though

 

Is it bouncing up and down to that or is it steady? Is your TB closing all the way. Id still recommend getting the codes scanned to see if one comes up.

 

i used a moderately size flat head screwdriver, and was able to get one off, and then a pair of needle nose pliers to get the other off as soon as I started to strip the second.

if you grab the head of the screw with the needle nose pliers much like turning a bolt or nut with a wrench, not a screwdriver technique, you can maximize the torque and get the screws off.

of course I only chose this method because i had things torn apart and no way to get to an auto parts store at 11pm.

The solenoid rotates a small valve to regulate the idle speed of the vehicle. What generally happens is this small valve gets gunked up with carbon and can not rotate freely.



ABOUT THE VALVE: The way the valve works is pretty simple. there is an inlet hole, and and exit hole. the valve it the shape of a cylinder with a wedge cut out of it. when the engine needs more air at idle, the solenoid rotates the cylinder so that the wedge portion is halfway between the two holes, and air can flow from one side to the other.


once I got the solenoid off I recorded the direction of the small tab sticking out the end of the valve so that when I inserted the solenoid again, everything would be where it left off.

then you can easily remove the cylinder, and clean it with some throttle body cleaner or alcohol or whatever volatile chemical you happen to have...j/k stick with carb cleaner, a rag and a q-tip for inside the wedge.

Once all clean, insert the cylinder into the valve assembly and check for free movement. You should be able to spin it freely.

rotate it to the position you recorded earlier, attach the solenoid and screws and you should be ready to put everything back together!

 

I had the same issue. Reving in park.

 

Nice info, thanks!

 

Add that info to the Thermoblock- EGR thread in DIY. Great explanation

 

i was also thinking of removing the sensor, didnt want to damage it with the carb cleaner. If i keep the sensor connected i would just spray in the metal openings, and scrub with a toothbrush or something?

 

where are the diy's I can never find them on this site. I'm trying to find the diy for idle air control replacement?

 

third item down the main gen2 thread title list= Official DIY List

rare is the bad iacv- often is the carbon clogged air slit and crudded chamber that needs a simple service

dont forget to clean the TB air plate on both sides and edges,
lube the throttle return springs