I Rotors
Originally Posted by thescoundrel
I am running them on the fronts and back. I opt for their slotted and drilled (no dimple). I had the dimpled/slotted before but the sucked--seemed worst than stock. Both times used axxis metal master pads.
do you see a noticeable difference in comparison to stock? Have they warped on you yet???
thanks
Originally Posted by thescoundrel
I am running them on the fronts and back. I opt for their slotted and drilled (no dimple). I had the dimpled/slotted before but the sucked--seemed worst than stock. Both times used axxis metal master pads.
I've got em front and rear, slotted and x-drilled. My car seems to stop faster and smoother. I would recommend them to you for their price and performance. Nothing on my car seemed worse than stock by far. No warping as of yet w/high performace pads on. Shipping and customer service was excellent. They even have an AIM screen name of "Sales at iRotors" so you can IM them with any questions about your order. Hope that helped. Feel free to PM me with anymore questions/concerns.
Matt
Matt
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The stock ones started to wobble maybe due to the warping at @ 25K. I decided to get the rotors turned and it help for a couple of months but it started again. So I decided to try the dimple ones--because the place that made them were local. New dimples with MM pads were great in the beginning but after 5k miles they wobble worst than stock. I tried out this new company "irotor.com" because they were cheap (~$300 for both fronts and rear) with a new set of MM pads and after 10K miles they definitely feel better than stock with no wobbling so far. I am confident that the braking distance is shorter. The only problem I have is that the brake dust is more than stock but I expected that.
I've had irotors brand rotors for a while, crossdilled and slotted, front and rear, and they've been holding up fine (a lot better than the stock rotors). I'm not sure off the top of my head exactly how many miles I've put on them so far but I'm guessing 20,000 - 30,000 miles, with no warping (And thats with a lot of hard driving).
Originally Posted by atl-abp
are you guys saying that the issue with acura rotors warping can be cured by using aftermarket rotors of the slotted or drilled varieties?
Cruisin'
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: atlanta ga
according to the service rep I had the new and improved acura brake pads which were supposed to help the warping issue. It did not. That is why I asked about the rotors. For the piece of mind, if better rotors are a fix for the premature warping then I will get some. Of course then I need help with what brands are working on our tl's
Shit that sux...I didn't know that tirerack had a two week back order on the EBC green pads...
well you could always order them, and wait...I mean is it 100% necessary that you have new brakes in the next couple days?
well you could always order them, and wait...I mean is it 100% necessary that you have new brakes in the next couple days?
no but id like to put them on as soon as the rotors arive. im sick of teh warped rotors and the cracks in them are a saftey issue. i really want green stuff, but i may get the factory pads again or the hawk pads
I just purchased a set of irotors x-drilled and slotted. I feel the car stops better and I did not replace the pads. There is more break dust to deal with. They look great. Can anyone comment on the green stuff pads? Do they produce less dust as advertised?
Thanks
Thanks
Originally Posted by spyder5786
Be careful buying the cross drilled rotors...the holes make it very vulnerbale to cracking.
Originally Posted by Edward'TLS
Only if they drill holes in stock or unstrengthened rotors and sell them as cross-drilled rotors. Real cross drilled rotors are made from specially treated or strenghtened metal, and so they are very strong.
oh and csilano yes green stuff produce very little brake dust
If you guys look on the new 04 TL there is a small (3inch high x 5inch wide x 4inch deep) vent attached to the lower part of the bumper in the rear just before the wheel. the design of the vent is to deflect cold air from under the car, directly into the rotors, attempting to relieve the warping problem.
I have seen a mod where a 2nd gen TL owner had cut an opening in the front of the wheel well, leaving a hollow opening from the fog light holes (which were mesh, I think) through the bumper, then through the new hole cut in the wheel well, on to the rotors.
I don't know about doing this on my car because of the snow factor but it might be benificial to the southern states TL driver.
I have seen a mod where a 2nd gen TL owner had cut an opening in the front of the wheel well, leaving a hollow opening from the fog light holes (which were mesh, I think) through the bumper, then through the new hole cut in the wheel well, on to the rotors.
I don't know about doing this on my car because of the snow factor but it might be benificial to the southern states TL driver.
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