I love that big brown truck

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Old 03-02-2007, 07:09 PM
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Talking I love that big brown truck

just got my greenstuff pads today. but i have a few questions.
1. do i need to use the stock shims(i think thats what they are called)
2.where on the pad do i apply the anti squeel stuff
3. what are those black tabs that are sticking out of the 2 pads on the right?
this is my first time changing pads by myself so i dont wanna screw anything up

Old 03-02-2007, 07:15 PM
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i believe the anti squeal stuff goes on the part where the pad rests on the sliders, and the black parts are the squealer pins so when the pads are almost dead it will squeal.. i think never changed the TL brakes before.. i imagine keeping the shim would be a good idea
Old 03-02-2007, 07:43 PM
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When you take it apart you will notice the tabs on the inner pads- make sure to put the correct pads in each side

The "grease" goes on the black parts where you see wear on the old ones- the contact points- you will see-
the shims/backing plates- built into the new ones- do not use the old ones
And a little on the slide areas

Buy the tool for 5 to 8 bucks that pushes the piston into the caliper
So much earier than c clamp or giant pliers or ....
Old 03-02-2007, 07:45 PM
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You have a 99- may have the screw in type pistons or the push in
If 4 cut in tabs on caliper piston- screw in type

Go read the threads on replacing brakes for all the tips you need
And read and follow the pad bedding in procedure
Old 03-02-2007, 07:47 PM
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L3

If you have never changed the TL brakes and have only a guess as to what goes on- why are you offering up advice?
This board is full of skilled people- and most questions can be answered by a search or simpe scroll thru the threads
Old 03-02-2007, 07:48 PM
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hehe.. couldn't help but notice...

orgnlprankster7
Let your stupid flow

Your questions aren't dumb at all... it just tickled me a little to see that under your name
Old 03-03-2007, 12:26 AM
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so i take it i do not need to use the stock shims as the black thing on the new pads are shims. also when i go to push the piston back in, wont that put air into the sytem? should i pop off the reserve brake fliud tank cap so air can escape?
Old 03-03-2007, 01:32 AM
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Heres a do it yourself link for you to follow up on

http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/how...7/article.html

Good luck
Old 03-03-2007, 01:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Unkn0VV17
Heres a do it yourself link for you to follow up on

http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/how...7/article.html

Good luck
hey thanks, i read it but i still dont know if i need to use the stock shims or if i need to do somthing about the brake fluid or not. still good info tho, im going to tacle this tomorow im asuming i need to get the antisqueel stuff
Old 03-03-2007, 12:02 PM
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You buy anti squeel at auto parts for a buck for the tiny pack needed for the job

The backing plates are preinstalled- use the original ones as book markers

DO NOT OPEN THE FLUID CAP

Pushing the piston back in place does not create air bubbles- it is a sealed system
You WILL raise the level of fluid in the Master Cylinder UP- so if its close to the topfull line because you filled it recently- then use a turkey baster (new-not from kitchen) to remove half the fluid and you will be fine.
Pushing the piston in slowly helps too.
Spray brake fluid everywhere by taking the cap off and pushing the pistons. BAD

BUY OR BORROW the caliper service tool- for 8 bucks makes the piston job a snap

read the brake DIY info linked above so you know about tight bolts.
Get a knowledgable friend to help you- soundls like your very first time doing this

When all done- before driving- pump brakes several times to push the calipers out and onto the new pads or you will have no brakes as you roll into the street
Old 03-03-2007, 12:39 PM
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thanks all, i just did this. took me 15 min! just looking at it i knew what to do wasnt as hard as i expected.
Old 03-03-2007, 02:02 PM
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Congrats on a job done at home!

Go back and recheck everything is tight after a drive and the wheel lugs too

Follow the break in procedures for the EBS pads and you will enjoy them much more.
Old 03-03-2007, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by orgnlprankster7
thanks all, i just did this. took me 15 min! just looking at it i knew what to do wasnt as hard as i expected.
Good work. 15 min is pretty good for the first time.

Now why don't we discuss a Mercedez dealership who charged my parents 2 hours of labour (at $110/hour) for changing two rear break pads....
Old 03-03-2007, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Congrats on a job done at home!

Go back and recheck everything is tight after a drive and the wheel lugs too

Follow the break in procedures for the EBS pads and you will enjoy them much more.
hey thnx, i made sure everything was tight after a drive. the stopping is amazing but a little on the noisy side, kinda a smooshing sound. owell the stoping power is worth it
Old 03-03-2007, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by red00tl
Good work. 15 min is pretty good for the first time.

Now why don't we discuss a Mercedez dealership who charged my parents 2 hours of labour (at $110/hour) for changing two rear break pads....
thats reedonkulously expensive
Old 03-03-2007, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by orgnlprankster7
thanks all, i just did this. took me 15 min! just looking at it i knew what to do wasnt as hard as i expected.

haha...15 mins? Pretty damn fast...good job
Old 03-03-2007, 03:47 PM
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OPrank

That noise should reduce or go away as the brakes get some use on them

Again- follow the break-in directions that should have come with the pads to the letter.
Usually you would clean the rotors with something (like fine wet/dry sandpaper) if not resurfacing or replacing them to remove remains of original pads from the rotor.
The contact transfer material of pad to rotor is critical.
See makers website if not included in the directions
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