Hi guys,

I bought a this car a few month ago. 2000 TL
When I brake on highway over 80 or 70 miles/h, front wheel is shaking(my steering is shaking bad).
So I though it must be front rotor must wrap.
However, when I check both rotors, it looks very new( they don't even have groove and still have gray factory paint on middle of hub, of course brake pad area has been cleaned up)

Is it possible this less than a year rotor could be wrap?
Both rotors looks same and it doesn't look one pad wasn't working like that.

What other cause front wheel shaking when I brake?

thank you guys.

 

It doesn't take much warp to cause your symptom, so you won't be able to see it with your eyes. Did you measure with a dial gauge?
Once they get really hot, they are subject to warping, so yes, even a relatively new rotor can be warped.

 

It is possible that the rotor(s) has been warped before and so is turned (machined). That's why the rotor surface looks brand new.

However, turning the rotors involve removing metal mass from the rotors, and as a result, causing the resulting thinner rotors more susceptible to future warping.

 

Thank you guys.

I'm going to replace the rotors this weekends and will let you guys know.

Thank you.

 

Buy something better than OEM.

 

Alright. ^^
I'll. It is going to busy weekends. Haha.

 

Shit, mine have been shaking for like a year now. Prob need to replace those ASAFP

 

Time to change my rotors. Can someone suggest which ones to get?

 

whats your budget $$$- 100 will get basic stuff at autozone
200 better stuff
300-350 RacingBrake slotted with matched pads or brembo with similar design

how do you drive? more importantly how do you brake--80 to 20 suddenly/frequently, commute low speeds..
whats more important- low brake dust or massive stopping power

those with newer rotors on break in miles: you may experience some shakes as the hills and valleys that make up the surface of both parts- comes together wearing away, and wearing into each other. Look at the rotor surface for what I mean
most come cross hatched or cross cut,,all that has to wear down with the pads until its smooth together

others should ck the mounting area for the rotors- where they slip over the axle hub
-if rust has built up there or on the flat part of the flange- it will make the rotor sit off center

Wheel lug torque and correct tightening method is critical to rotor preservation!!
80 foot pounds spec there

sticky caliper can make big probs
sometimes doing brakes without flushing the fluid,, or flushing afterwards-
with micro-sized rust particulate matter causing damage to oring seal and caliper cylinder bore erosion = funny brakes

Many of us are on replaced calipers, and upgraded to the dual piston units for 95 legend LS-C
for same or less than TL calipers cost--great improvement

ck out the numerous `what brakes` threads for more choices and personal feedback of members==try search feature
be warned- no one who spent serious money on them thinks they bought anything but the best~

 

wow, thank you for that great information '01tl4tl'

 

The best is when you get surface hairline cracks from getting the rotors so hot , you know you need rotors then.....

 

Actually I replaced the rotors last weekends.
It is ok but sill has little 'bum, bum, bum,.' like vibrating( very very little ).
I don't know what this is but only when I apply brake on high speed.

However, it doesn't shake the steering like before and happy for now.

Thank you guys.

 

what about the pads?

 

Front? Which brand did you put on it?

 

possibly a bad wheel bearing....., only apparent under heavier braking for the time being

 

a rotor's metallurgical structure is changed completely throughout the whole piece of metal once it is badly warped. so when you remove a thin surface layer of metal, the metal underneath that still has internal stress that works it way back to the surface, causing runout.

the amount of metal lost in turning is only a few thousands of inch and is not much mass at all, that is not the reason why turned rotors warp. unless they have been turned too many times, removing too much metal.

if a rotor is slightly warped, turning it should solve its issues since the runout is not too deep into the metal maybe only a couple of thousands deep...thats the hope at least.

after rotors are turned, pads should be changed, tq the lugs correctly, and a proper bed in process should be followed.

 

The rotors are Centric.
And I didn't change the pads because they are almost new and OEM.
Also, I didn't want to put very expensive after market parts on my wife's car.

Only little vibrating is on highway braking(so around 80m/h and apply brake make little vibrating) other than that, i don't feel any shaking.

Anyway, I'll let you guys know if it goes bad. (hope not)

 

OEM pads are nothing to rave about, id slap on EBC green stuff pads.

 

dont forget to make sure the slider pins are moving freely and the pads are not getting hung up on the mounting bracket..

 

thats a what I came to write!
make sure the slider plates on the brackets- where the pads clip into place- are cleaned and relubed lightly
Also where the caliper contacts the pads needs grease, inner and outer pads.

torque is really important on bolts- overtight is bad news

the axle hub where the rotor sits- that center section needs to be sanded on occassion to remove any rust that may cause it to sit funny

Brake fluid and caliper failure:
If you do a fluid change/flush/bleed and its grey and liquidy- you may have caliper seal failures with corroded caliper bore = sticking caliper

Do a fluid change before working on brakes, to prevent backwashing crud and causing problems