Hi,

My 1999 3.2 TL has some problems.

First of all, the hood was hard to close. I used some grease before and it worked. Now I'm trying to fix it without grease by hammering the hook at the center of the hood. "Bang", the hood closed but never open again.

I am thinking of removing the splash shield under the the engine compartment so I will probably be able to take off the fixture on the frame that is linked to the hook, from under the car. But the S.S. is fixed with a few plastic pins (or screws) and I don't want to break them and don't know how to unscrew them either. Any idea about that?

I heard someone had the similar situation as I have and he broke the grill to get access to the hood lock. It's going to be the last resort for me.

Thanks in advance.

z_johnq

 

 

Try the two person method. Have one person pull the release and the other pull up on the hood. Also try pulling at angle. If it open before, then it should open again. It's just binding. Next time grease the parts.

As a precaution take your grill out.

 

Your best bet is to do a search in the 2nd Gen TL forum at: Second Generation TL (1999-2003) - AcuraZine Community.
My guess is that it won't be hard to remove the splash shield.

G/L, and welcome to AZ.

 

When you get your hood open, do this simple test. Lock the latch with the hood open by using a philips screw driver. Then pull on your cable to see if it releases. But look at your latch to see if there's a spring there, if it is the it should pop up. If not you need the two person method to test.

Send a pic of the fasteners plz?

Is your cable broken?

Check inside where the release is. On the 2000 tl there is a attachement from the end of the cable to the release, it may of come off.

 

See if that came off.

 

Chances are these are the clips. To release them pry them with a flat screw driver partly out only. There's a sweet spot, once you hit it, it will release.

and bolts.

 

Try the "Put 'em in a coffin" technique

 

Hi,

Thanks to all you guys for your info. Sorry about the late reply.

I haven't got the chance of fix the hood yet since I got a trouble code P1457. I just bought an Evap Shut Valve from Amazon at $31. Not sure if it will fix but worth trying since the inspection deadline is the end of the month (Apr).

What did you mean by "put them in coffin tech"? Did you mean as long as you press them in and they will never come out?

Thanks again folks. I'll get pics as I fix it. Btw, how to attach those pics? Never done that before.

 

after the 2 person method use some lithium grease and as you are working the mechanism, spray the crap out the hood release.

 

Hi folks,

Thanks again for your valuable info. I finally got it fixed. I tried 2-people way but no luck. With a good light, I found it was the grill that blocked the way so the latch couldn't move up enough to unlock the hood. I simply bent it (the latch handle) to avoid the grill. It worked. I put quite some grease in the latch set and now there is no problems of closing and opening the hood. Lucky enough not to break the grill to get access.

The car passed the inspection since I fixed the Evap Shutoff Valve, which I bought from Amazon (about $32). Installation was a true PITA. It took me about 2.5 hours to complete the job. The 2 rusty screws were so hard to remove and there was no way of using a oxy-acetylene torch since tons of plastic around. Tools used: recip. saw, ViseGrip pliers, socket (to loose the Canister so the valve can come down a little to get access)... The car has been driven for over a couple of 100 miles and the trouble code has not come back yet.

One more question. Not sure if I have to start a new thread.

I replaced the rear rotors of the car. Before I put the car on road, I found out that the wheels couldn't rotate freely. It's obvious lots of drag on the rear brakes. Before I put on the tires, I noticed if the 2 small bolts that secure the rotors on the hub were tight-up, it would be hard to rotate the rotor. I thought it was because the parking brake shoes were not loose enough so I shrank the shoes all the way in but still tight, even worse as I installed the tires. I know it's parking brakes. In fact, I don't need them. But the brake drag may lead to heat build-up, which might ruin the new rotor.

Anyone experienced the situation before? Thanks again.

 

Make sure you install the retaining screws in the right holes. Some rotors have threaded holes for releasing the rotor from the parking brake shoes.

The rotor is not suppose to spin freely. There's always a little friction between the rotor and the brake pads. It will turn when move by your hand but, not freewheel.

 

Thanks for the reminder. Yes. The retaining screw holes are right beside the lug nut studs, aren't they. In addition, they are countersinked but the holes for releasing the rotors are not.

The problems are I cannot turn the rotors by hand. I have to use a big screwdriver plunging between the wheel studs as a lever to make turns. It's definitely not normal.

 

If parking brakes are all the way in then there shouldn't be to much friction.

You need to find out where is it binding? Brake pads, brake shoes, or hub bearing assy?

Is it on the right or left or both?

Remove the caliper. Does the spin by hand now? If it does then you did something wrong during assembly.

Remove the rotor. During removal, is there contact between the shoes and the rotor/drum? If its tight the you might have a defective rotor? Now turn the hub assy? If it turns now then your new rotor is defective... the drum is too small.

Unless the bearing went bad.

Let me guess you're using aftermarket parts? Maybe those parts just not made right... it happens.

Or you mess up assy the pads?

 

I cannot shrink the shoes no more;

I know what's binding: the shoes. If I keep the hold-down screws loose, the new rotors can spin quite freely; or they cannot (before I mount the tires with loose screws, the rotors spin OK);

Both sides;

Bearings are fine too since the hubs spin freely;

Yes, they are aftermkt parts which I got from Rockauto.com at $15 each shipping included. I bet they are made in China. They look quite decent;

Btw, I did not tell you the car is from Canada. It sounds like they are the same as those made in the US but not exactly: before I install the new pads, I will have to grind off a fraction of the back plates at both ends with a sander before I can fit them into the brackets.

Let me ask you this: what's going to happen if I just drive the car for a few miles? In fact, I've done driving it for less than a mile. The alum. rims did not feel warm but the rotors felt pretty hot, which might lead to warpage and that's something I'm afraid of.

 

LOL WHY YOU DOING THIS CRAZY SHIT???

I see whats wrong now... the parking brake shoes and the operator! LOL

1. You need to change the parking brake shoes back to factory OEM or equivalent. I mean size wise. Your new shoes are too wide and is bottoming out on the side of the brake shoes.

2. Change the operator (jk). LOL

If you keep driving on it could dig into the rotor if dig in enough may cut the rotor off of the drum... no brakes? LOL or get hot and mess up the bearings? or who knows what else.

Just get the correct pads the you're good.

 

BTW: It also could be the other way around... wrong rotor (pads are ccorrect).

Just saying.

 

I had similar issues when I replaced mine too. The paint on the metal bracket was put on so thick they wouldn't compress enough to fit the rotor on. i had to file it off (just the paint though). My new rotors turned when they were on though.

 

I fixed the problems today.

Nothing wrong with the rotors, by comparing the new ones to the old. The size, structure and so on are all the same. Maybe the cast iron might not be heat treated properly but who knows.

Nothing wrong with the installation either...

The reason why the rotors won't be able to spin is because of the hub back plate, which is so rusty at the lower part of the plate around the axle that rubs against the inner part of the rotors. I ground it off (rust)and replaced the rotors and they rotated fine by hand, with the hold-down screws very tight, even before the installation of the tires.

Before I did what I mentioned above, I checked the inside of the rotors trying to find the trace of abrasion coming from the parking brake shoes rubbing against the inner track of the rotors. I found none, i.e., the binding did not come from the shoes/rotors. The inner rotors are clean and smooth.

I found it's hard to believe that the heat of binding might burn through the rotors so the wheels would fly right out... it will hurt the bearings for sure.

I was supposed to take a couple of pics but my iPhone's battery was dead. Sorry.

Thanks again for the info you guys provided. Take care.

 

Hi folks, it's me again. Long time no talk! Happy New Year to all of you!

I think I still need to fix the hood. Since the front-end had been hit before, like what I mentioned previously, after close the hood, I can see the left-hand side has much bigger slot than the right, between the edge of the hood and the side-panel. Do I need to take off the hood and fix the hinge first? I need advice from you guys. I'll take some pics if you want.

Thanks in advance.