Anthony99tl

Just tested it again and i was wrong mine hits at like 3200

fsttyms1

Im going to clarify this for every one. This is factory specs for the car and when it engages.

3800 RPM's for the 99 TL
4400 RPM's for the TL
4800 RPM's for the TL Type S

jaMezBOI

iTrader: (3)

^ yup

Why does the vtec in the tl-s pop so much later? Wouldn't it benefit us(ppl with the tl-s) more if it popped a little bit earlier such as 4200RPM?

niju321

maybe your 2stage intake manifold changes when vtec is needed?

01tl4tl

type S (and Plain) can simply install a lightweight crank pulley-

knock 8 pounds off a 10 pound object on the end of the crank and the engine will rev substanially faster---
getting you to vtec rpm quicker

fsttyms1

No, thats not the way vtec works. Its not a magical device that you can turn on and make more power. Many in the past have tried tuning it to come on earlier most with negative results. Where honda has it is pretty much optimal.

DC3328

iTrader: (22)

tl-s redline is about 800rpms higher than p's so we're in vtec as much as they are

jaMezBOI

iTrader: (3)

Ahh ok, I always wondered if lowering your vtec would help.

bruistopher

well it makes my head sway back a little. i wouldn't call it a boost of power because it isn't. i liked how last night i provoked a mitsubishi evo. he had a lot of mods done to it so i could tell so i floored it and i when vtec kicked in i saw my car go forward and his lagged behind a little but out of the blew he flew pass me a little i tail gated him for a minute...

but in the back of my mind i kept saying cops, cops and cops. i got to go to traffic court for pointless tickets. now is not the time to get anymore

so i let him win and he slowed down and i slowed down and i just waved it off and congratulated him because

a) mines is stock to keep up with him (so it pissed him off to make him think mines was modded)

b) vtec is what provoked him

DC3328

iTrader: (22)

LMAO.

all I have to say.

SatinSilverAV6

iTrader: (2)

you can really hear and feel the VTEC crossover point with I/E. Harder to hear when your acura is stock. My Accord V6 VTEC kicks in at 4750RPM. Love these stock cams!

jaMezBOI

iTrader: (3)

I don't think it was an evo. It was probably a lancer that you thought was an evo.

PiZauL

iTrader: (1)

I conveniently have one for sale

bruistopher

probably because both models looked the same. i know the evo model has HID and iirc he had halogen bulbs with halogen fogs.

regardless it was funny how as soon as we floored it my TL went ahead because of vtec supposedly and his lingered for a few seconds and finally he switched gears and pulled off. i noticed some sort of high pitch sound though when he switched to 2nd and as i was tailgating him i sense a burning smell from his car. regardless he didn't beat me by any means (i was riding his bumper) because as i said earlier. the thought of a cop being in the area was running through my head and i already got 4 pointless tickets i will be fighting in traffic court later this year so i just pulled back.

i laughed and wave when he slowed down and told him to check his ride for that burning smell and he looked and said you got any mods i said "no all stock, its just the power of acura/honda running through this car" and he laughed.

he had temporary tags too, so it was him showing off his new ride. i wish i had a 3rd TL!

oulaw29

you need to change your turn signal fluid to get full vtech power...

PiZauL

iTrader: (1)

I did this mod where my VTECKZ is always on

JDM Inspired

who uses VTEC?

but i wish our cars came in DOHC i would give everyone the business

fsttyms1

Probably not because any normal running TL would have kept pulling away from the lancer.

01tl4tl

OP: have you seafoamed the engine oil- by adding 1/2 can and driving with use of vtec?
I know gen3 has a problem with gumming and sticking of the sliders, so keeping the passageways clean is really important

IMO- install new oil filter, drive a week of 100-200 miles- then change oil and filter WHEN warm or the sludge doesnt drain out as well
Now its clean inside and vtec ~may~ operate!!
It runs on oil pressure to move things and make it all happen, plus it uses the changes in oil pressure when you bang the throttle and gets vtec ready
See diagrams of what vtec is and does- they are online and some on zine

Possible yours is not working right for reasons of sludge, certainly worth a shot and seafoam will help remove egr stuff you cant reach, frees up glazed and sticking piston rings for better compression and oil sealing

niju321

I have done the seafoam in oil thing but not the new oil filter and drive technique (just 15 minutes while still hitting vtec). your prior posts indicate that i should've gone for 30+ minutes, so the next time i guess i'll try either that or the new oil filter and drive technique (depends on availability of friend with jackstands). it's a bit harder to test now because the roads are slick and i don't want to break traction and cause a crash, will wait a few days for it to warm up.

i may also throw on a k&n filter and see if that makes the vtec hit more noticeable...what do you think?

01tl4tl

if you removed the intake resonator box then a K&N will make noise when you hit vtec- they are a great investment

per seafoam site- you can install a fresh filter and add 1/2 can seafoam, drive up to 500 miles/30 days while checking the dipstick daily for sludge buildup,
change oil and filter when Warm when you can tell its ready~
For a ziner- a few hundred miles should do an excellent job
must use vtec to make oil flow thru its system and clean the sludge that is always growing in the oil passages

01tl4tl

you can pretty well reach the oil filter from the passenger side wheel well, dont need jackstands-
ramps make it easier~

illmat1k

iTrader: (1)

well this shall be fun to tell you guys... got a friend who builds custom maps for the JB chips for BMWs and he was willing to build a custom ECU flash to where we can fine tune our VTEC levels and fuel intake and all... far better than anything on market.... for a small fee tho.... $1500... hahaha still thinkin if its worth it before i get anything such as S/C and 6 speed swap...

what do you guys think?

01tl4tl

spend the money on track days- driver schools before you add loads of power to a FWD car, or a rwd car~

Otherwise they end up wrapped in a tree at some point

DC3328

iTrader: (22)

I'll believe when I see the cf lip kit you made

fsttyms1

Yea, best of luck to him, and for that price i can get a AEM FIC and a full dyno tune and have money left over.

niju321

i haven't removed the intake resonator, it's cold and i want to retain the quietness of the car when idling, cruising on the highway, etc. only if i'm pushing it do i want to hear a difference in sound--how much difference does the resonator removal make in "conservative" driving? let's say below 3000rpm or below the 3800rpm vtec engagement point in my 99

and would i be able to hear/feel a difference with just the k&n filter?

03tLsNBP

iTrader: (9)

just remove it. you only hear the difference at WOT. it sounds stock at highway cruise and well pretty much anything except WOT. Simply putting in a K&N filter will not result in a significant noise increase. you will most likely not hear any difference at all. I have a K&N drop-in filter in my parents 01 Toyota Sienna for about 7 years now. IMO it was a waste of $45. you dont feel much difference in performance and theres no difference in sound. if you want performance/sound get a SRI/CAI.

'02_TL-S

Only time you hear that you don't have it anymore is when you're outside of the car with it on, idling. Then you hear a slight drone that most CAIs have as well. Other than that, you can't tell it's gone at all except at WOT because then it roars :hump: