repsol

the reason is my rotor always get bent like every 4-5 months - then it will be pulsating/virbating (feel it from the steering wheel). most of the time is the front rotots.

i have tried using OE rotor and afte market rotors same result.

could this be the way i drive? but i dont race and most of the time never speed....etc.

any ideas?

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

Any chance you wash your car right after driving it? Hitting a hot rotor with cold water is a recipe for warped rotors.

repsol

no, i never do a car wash after driving. usually do my car wash in sat/sunday morning when the car is cold.

MADCAT

I don't think you installed them properly. I had all my brake work done at the dealer. I still have the OE rotors which stop on a dime.

chiman38

[QUOTE=repsol]the reason is my rotor always get bent like every 4-5 months - then it will be pulsating/virbating (feel it from the steering wheel). most of the time is the front rotots.

i have tried using OE rotor and afte market rotors same result.

could this be the way i drive? but i dont race and most of the time never speed....etc.



Try torqueing your wheel lug nuts so all the nuts torqued at 80lbs each.

69ssrscam

I'll bet you or your mechanic torque the crap out of your lugnuts whenever you put your wheels on & off. Here is a link to the real scientific reasons that brake discs warp:

http://www.ceramicbrakes.com/whitepa...otors_myth.htm

I torque my lugs to 85 ft/lbs and have never warped a rotor since, and I drive the ever livin' daylights out of the car and stand on the brakes all the time. I also try to cool the rotors down by coasting at speed a little before I park it.

eh!curaplus

you may have the same problem i just had. i was feeling the same pulsating/vibrating feeling in my steering wheel. my mech. found a tear on the gasket which shields the brake piston. with the piston exposed this would allow moisture and water in and cause it to get dirty and rusty.

the mechanic was explaining to me that what i may have been feeling was the piston fully engaged even when the brakes were'nt pressed or even not working at all leaving the opposite wheel/brake doing all the work. he may have been right, cuz i felt most of the vibrating just b4 my car came to a full stop, it felt like a locking motion. it all made sense cuz on some days i felt it while driving 35-40 mph and i wasnt even pressing on the brake.

just a suggestion if this is the case, dont let acura or your shop talk you into buying a new caliper assembly. if they know what they're doing, there's no need for it. my shop was able clean the piston assm. and replace the gasket for $100.00 hope this helps you out!

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

That was my other thought. Beat me to it.

JAREKsTLS

At 9,000 miles dealer change my front rotors, front and rear brake pads, at 20,000 miles he did the same thing, under warranty.

jigga009

it is damn near impossible to actually warp rotors these days. The pulsations that are being felt in the steering (and heard) are caused by brake pad deposits bonding with the surface of the rotor after comming to a stop on hot brakes. The issue can be solved by resurfacing the rotors, and by not keeping the brake pedal depressed when you come to a stop after a heavy OR prolonged braking episode. Also, it helps to break in new pads and rotors properly when new.

Washing a car with hot rotors will cause stress fractures to form in the rotor, thus weakening the whole thing. Those with drilled rotors might notice the spider web-like cracks that form between the holes in the rotors.

@cUr@-TL

i replaced my rotors countless times.. in fact, i'll have to replace them when i take my car out in April.. my front rotora's are warped...

i decided to make custom brake ducts (to help cooling down).. i'll let you guys know how it goes...

MADCAT

Jesus...are you guys driving with the emergency barke on? Rotors shouldn't be getting this hot.

fsttyms1

my oem ones made it to almost 70k front and 105 k rear, i dont know how some of you warp your rotors so fast???? its well known that im really hard on my brakes, i auto x with them, tow stuff, just plain drive hard, and i have never warped a rotor with out atleast 40k on it

jigga009

Doesn't have to be that, it could just be the result of hard braking on the highway from 80mph to zero because of upcomming traffic obstruction. After comming to a stop (and keeping the brake pedal depressed), the hot brakepad material mates with the hot rotor, and leaves a deposit on the rotor. It is this deposit that is felt as the pulsations/shuddering through the steering wheel.

It would not surprise me that this occurs on the TL's, since they arent exactly lightweight cars. The weight takes a toll on the rotors...

samkws

kris just beat the hell out of his car

Severin

My rotors need cutting every 30-40K or so. I have replaced the rotors once and methodically bed the pads after every change.

I have NEVER owned another car with such terribly under designed brake components.

I'll simply cut these rotors and will luckily be replacing this car before they go again.


Can anyone recommend a pad less damaging to the stock blanks than the Acura pads (I have Brembo blanks now)?

02TL-S

108,000 miles on my original rotors and pads. They are just now starting to shimmy while stopping.

gregtomash

I've been always wandering whether this statement is true. Because, IMHO, this happens all the time - occasional puddles, melted show etc. I can't believe that designers never foresaw driving situation when hot rotors may get a splash of cold water.