Help!! problem with RPM dipping. (video included)

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Old 01-19-2011, 10:42 PM
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Help!! problem with RPM dipping. (video included)

Okay so I've had this problem for about half a year and I have no clue what's causing it and before I put more money into unnecessary parts, maybe you guys can figure it out.

1) If I give the car a light throttle, the rpm will raise and drop below the idle line and shutter violently. On a bad day, it will stall out

2) Sometimes while throwing the car into neutral (6mt) as I approach a red light or to coast on the highway, the car will dip to 0 and stall (dangerous)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YoRJHkKAqg4

So far I have
1)Grounded the whole car
2)Changed the IACV
3)Changed sparkplugs (This would fix issue for a week or so)

Anything else I should try to fix this problem? Maybe new alternator?
Change vac lines?
Old 01-20-2011, 09:37 AM
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what plugs did you install
cleaned egr ports?
how is the engine compression?

dont buy any more parts!
get codes ckd at parts stores everywhere for free
Old 01-20-2011, 10:59 AM
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it might not definitely be this, but the same thing was happening to me at idle when my battery terminals were coming loose/off. im assuming yours are fine, so it could be something with the alternator?

the fact that your gauge lights are dimming and as the car almost stalls makes me believe this.

but hey im not an expert...im just pointing out what i noticed.

Last edited by 03tLsNBP; 01-20-2011 at 11:04 AM.
Old 01-20-2011, 11:37 AM
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I would be checking out the TPS
Old 01-20-2011, 12:27 PM
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6mt, 8psi (boost)- other mods, and/or any mismatched/disconnected sensors, etc.?
Old 01-20-2011, 01:10 PM
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I'd check the battery, make sure its holding a charge
Old 01-20-2011, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by sicc_soul916
I'd check the battery, make sure its holding a charge
doesn't come into play, once the engine starts it operates off of the alternator and the battery does nothing.
Old 01-20-2011, 03:47 PM
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Battery's new, using denso ik22 sparkplugs, egr ports, tb, im have been cleaned
ignore the check engine light (I just got that recently, sparkplugs die every 6 months for me)
Old 01-20-2011, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Rejckt
Battery's new, using denso ik22 sparkplugs, egr ports, tb, im have been cleaned
ignore the check engine light (I just got that recently, sparkplugs die every 6 months for me)
Have you tried using the specified NGK plugs? Using anything else will usually cause problems.
Old 01-20-2011, 06:20 PM
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i have an automatic with same problem. However mine mostly happens when goeing about 25mph and then taking my foot off the gas. The rpm will dip down and hit ~700rpm and then goes back up to 1500. I always thought it was torque converter lockup trying to save fuel...it seems it's not.
Old 01-20-2011, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by soria
Have you tried using the specified NGK plugs? Using anything else will usually cause problems.
Comptech says use ik22
Old 01-20-2011, 08:06 PM
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the last time i had this problem was with spark plugs, changed them out and still had problems. changed ignition coils and that fixed the problem.
Old 01-20-2011, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by sicc_soul916
I'd check the battery, make sure its holding a charge
Oh my... seriously i dont have a clue about cars, but i gotta say that was just...
Old 01-20-2011, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by xtremex626
the last time i had this problem was with spark plugs, changed them out and still had problems. changed ignition coils and that fixed the problem.
How do you figure out which coil pack to change when none of them are throwing codes?
Old 01-21-2011, 02:50 AM
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L788jKEVblY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMjQry8mz-E

Might help?
Old 01-22-2011, 08:07 PM
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Not sure if this is related. But if the car revs by itself it should be the oxygen sensor. Happened to my car 3 months ago. Even with my foot on the break the car would lunge. I noticed when the car almost rear ended another car by itself. Acura... $200 Parts + Labor. And That Was Probably Overpriced. You Gotta Pull Everything To Get To The Oxygen Sensor. Labor costs more than the part itself.
Old 01-22-2011, 08:12 PM
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I have a different tach issue and I was wondering if anyone could help me out. While driving at a constant speed between 36-39mph the tach will bounce (float) up and down ranging from 200 - 300rpms. Not sure what is going on but any input would be great. Thanks
Old 01-22-2011, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by MasterDavid
Not sure if this is related. But if the car revs by itself it should be the oxygen sensor. Happened to my car 3 months ago. Even with my foot on the break the car would lunge. I noticed when the car almost rear ended another car by itself. Acura... $200 Parts + Labor. And That Was Probably Overpriced. You Gotta Pull Everything To Get To The Oxygen Sensor. Labor costs more than the part itself.
umm, if you go under the car. you can unplug and replug the sensor. It's also not $200 for the sensor, you got robbed.

Originally Posted by 03Atls
I have a different tach issue and I was wondering if anyone could help me out. While driving at a constant speed between 36-39mph the tach will bounce (float) up and down ranging from 200 - 300rpms. Not sure what is going on but any input would be great. Thanks
get out of my thread and make your own.
Old 01-23-2011, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Rejckt



get out of my thread and make your own.
COMPLETELY uncalled for!
Old 01-23-2011, 09:57 AM
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Clean ALL your terminals on the battery, make sure you have GOOD grounds, and with the motor running have someone rev it like you did in the vid while you test the voltage at the alt. See if its fluctuating at idle and if it spikes around with the throttle like that.

Other things i would look at are the IACV, id take that off and clean it. Another thing to do is measure the values of the TPS and see if they are within range.
Old 01-23-2011, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Clean ALL your terminals on the battery, make sure you have GOOD grounds, and with the motor running have someone rev it like you did in the vid while you test the voltage at the alt. See if its fluctuating at idle and if it spikes around with the throttle like that.

Other things i would look at are the IACV, id take that off and clean it. Another thing to do is measure the values of the TPS and see if they are within range.
I have cleaned the battery terminals with a wire brush, the IACV has been replaced, I regrounded the entire engine bay.

I tested voltage on the alt at idle, but i guess I didn't while reving. I'll try that next. I also havn't tested the TPS. Man this sucks, it's been doing this for 6 months. I could have probably bought another motor with all the money I've spent trying to fix this.
Old 01-24-2011, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Rejckt
Battery's new, using denso ik22 sparkplugs, egr ports, tb, im have been cleaned
ignore the check engine light (I just got that recently, sparkplugs die every 6 months for me)
Hum, I use IRIDIUM IK16 and it is 2000 TL
Is mine and yours use different?

When I check I need to use IK16
Old 01-24-2011, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by mikee46
Hum, I use IRIDIUM IK16 and it is 2000 TL
Is mine and yours use different?

When I check I need to use IK16
Type-s motor and boosted.
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