So yesterday i went to do the 3x3 trans drain and fill. I needed the breaker bar for the fill plug but got it open nonetheless. When trying to remove the drain plug, I swear the Hulk put it on there. In the end i used a 1/2 ratchet w/ 3/8 adapter and everything i had in me plus using a curb to put my feet on to generate more power in order to get it off. So when i went to put it back on, it was stripped. I'm guessing/assuming that it's the threads on the tranny not the bolt that are stripped bc the bolt looked okay. My car is in my buddies driveway and there's a very slow leak while it sits there. I'm worried tho that if I try and drive, there will be more pressure, thus causing it to leak more. I need this fixed ASAP but I'm not sure what I can do. Any suggestions guys?

 

Will the bolt hold on at all? I mean, if you use a nylon washer on the bolt for an easily compressed seal, will the bolt hold it in place without falling off? If so, you can also use some automotive gasket maker around the bolt to seal it so it doesn't leak. Then you can drive it to a place where they can rethread it for you.

 

I haven't tried moving it since yesterday. There's a small spot underneath of my car from the leak. Where could I get automotive gasket maker and where could I take it to be rethreaded?

 

Any auto parts store has the gasket maker. Maybe the auto department of walmart has it? But any high temperature sealant will do for your temporary scenario.

Call some shops in your area and ask them if they have the tools to rethread a new bolt for you.

 

Oh okay. Do you think I should try and get a tap for that? And would sears sell that?

 

If you have the right tools and know how to tap it, go for it. If you don't feel comfortable, let someone else do it. But if the bolt is grabbing threads and holding strong in there, and you use a nylon washer and cover it with gasket-maker....you will be fine driving it for a few days until you find a shop to fix it.

 

I don't have the tools. I think I'll just let someone else do that then. The bolt is in there pretty well, it just won't tighten down. I'm gonna get my buddy to take me to the parts store so I can try and get this sealed.

 

Okay, I need more help please. Sorry guys to continue to be a pain. I called a few places this morning and they are saying about 200+ in order to drill/tap a new hole which I feel is outrageous. I'm pretty sure that we can't buy a new drain pan for our transmissions. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. Also, any other more cost effective ways to make this fix?

 

also, does anyone know what the thread size for the drain plug is?

 

If the threads are stripped you cannot use the same Acura drain plug. They will bore a bigger hole, re-thread it, and put on a larger plug. Standard stuff.

If you put gasket-maker on your drain plug it won't leak when you drive the car. So you have plenty of time to research places to get the best price. Try calling some machine shops. Maybe others can chime here and offer cheaper alternatives.

 

call TRANS shops,,wont be the first time they have fixed this
must drill out threads, insert helicoil and new larger size plug
this can take a few hours plus draining $ the fluid

wiki any terms you dont know yet~

Have you used a dental pick tool to remove thread material from case
and ckd bolt for thread material?
If it wont tighten its not safe to drive,,,unless your insurance covers acts of insanity

NOTE for all! yes by now those plugs are corrosion welded to the threads!
spray with penetrating stuff for a day or 2 in advance.
trying to slightly tighten stuck bolts can break the bonding- then loosen as normal
Spec torque for both oil and atf drains is 29 foot pounds

 

I understand that the plug will not fit the hole once it is drilled/re-threaded. My question was in the regards to the possibility of using a thread insert in order to be able to use the stock magnetic drain plug. I have already purchased the gasket maker and plan on going to the honda dealership to get more ATF this afternoon in order to pull the plug put the gasket maker on the bolt and then refill.

I called a few Trans shops in the area, one being AAMCO who quoted me at approx $200 which I feel is a bit extensive considering it's a relatively simple drill/tap job. Obviously, I would need a new drain plug as well and would get the ATF from Honda rather than using some other brand.

Also, I have not checked the bolt for thread material or used a dental pick tool as I did not have any more ATF at that time in order to replace the fluid that would be lost. The bolt did go all the way up to the pan but would not torque down. Does anyone know what thread the drain plug is?

 

We need a little more info, before saying you "think" its stripped, When you put the bolt in did it tighten up? Can you tighten it up or does it just spin? 2nd, did you make sure the washer is on the drain plug (#10).

 

I came to my own conclusion that it is stripped because I am able to thread the bolt in up to the drain pan but it will not torque down and only spins therefore leaving me with a slow leak of ATF. Yes, the washer is on the drain plug.

 

Hey 412KING, the tranny drain bolt can sometimes be rather tight when removing. Probably due to it's location and exposure to the elements. Perhaps someone previously used locktite or JBweld on it ? Another possibility is that the drain hole was previously repaired with a helicoil insert which may have worked loose when you last removed the plug. If this is the case, a new helicoil and washer might work ?

 

SSo, I just got back from a Trans shop and it turns out that there's a crack in the case below the bolt as well that is about 1/2 long. Does anyone know if the aluminum here is thick enough to be able to handle a weld? Also has anyone ever heard of using a tapered bolt in a situation like mine where the current bolt wont torque down?

 

yes it can be welded. The case is pretty thick.

 

Are you sure that what appears to be a crack in the tranny case is an actual fracture or is it just a cosmetic flaw in the casting ?

Clean the area up really well and try to determine if it's a potential concern. Does there appear to be any other evidence of under-carriage damage ?

I'm unsure of the need or even the possibility of being able to weld the case. I've previously used "tapered" plug bolts on other car's oil pans, but never on the alloy tranny case. So, I don't know if that's a solution.

 

Thank you so much. That makes me feel a little bit better. My buddy has a ton of experience with welding but he won't be back to base until the 5th of april. I should be ok as long as I keep an eye on the fluid level right? It is a slow leak. Also, has anyone heard of or had experience with using a tapered bolt for this sort of application?

 

I say helicoil all day. You can even get one the same size that would retain the stock plug. I would say running a bunch of fluid thru it as well just in case some of the threads are floating around in the case. JB the crack maybe....?

 

When i had it at the trans shop they used a wire brush to clean it up and remove the paint and u can see the crack and the fluid coming through it. I talked to my buddy who does welding and he recommended I use JBweld for a temp fix until he can get back to base. I didn't see any other damage when it was up on the lift.

Also, how would i know which helicoil to use? I've never done that before and I don't know what the thread pattern is on the plug either.

 

What may appear to be fluid seeping from the assumed "crack" may very well only be residual leak originating from the actual tranny's drain plug hole, IMO.

Have you ever noticed any prior leaks coming from this area ?
The reason why I ask......is that some of this newly found problem may have been due to the return of HULK 2, ha...hah...not funny I know, sorry man !

 

JB weld FTW!!

 

jbweld..use the slow setting stuff,,not the 5 minute- for more secure fix
that will outlast the rest of the car!

does the crack come from the thread area--direct connection?
then I would agree with hulk method was cause of crack and keeping it from tightening up

wiki helicoil for how it works, can do whatever you want!
might consider an oil quick drain ~25$ (yahoo search) plug
never remove plug again! ends stripped thread issue and makes a trans drain effortless, same for engine oil..I putting on oil drain soon...guess why

 

do they make quick drains for trans drain plugs? I think I would only be concerned with that route due to there would be no magnet to get the shavings. I do aggree that it would alleviate a lot of potential problems and make the drain/refill process sooo much smoother but, I don't know what the thread pattern is in order to purchase a quick drain plug. So you're saying that if I go and drain the trans again and once it's dry, JBweld the crack rather than trying to weld it? I'm not trying to challenge all of your solutions I am just wanting to make sure I am on the same page.

 

to me- jb is a lifesaver,,fixed many odd probs on major road trips= using old vehichiles to tow race cars
from a cracked block to an a/c high pressure fitting leak,,sealed them all

its simpler than welding IMO
few hazards~ that cant be ground back off

I would clean the crack after drain trans, like a tooth filling needs excavated area to grab on to,
also spray clean inside trans since atf will be in the crack

IIRC both drain plugs are the same pitch and 14mm diameter, you can verify size on an acura chart
or local dealer parts will know
ck website of product for application and probable need for `spacer` if hole is recessed

its the cheap solution to stripped threads IF you can get it in there well enough!
Add a drop of expoxy outside to secure it!

option of back to helicoil is -you can go back to stock plug type
but its going to cost you!

Does the crack reach the threads and cause the problem of movement with torque?

 

AstlSo it sounds like JB weld seems to be the route to go. I think I'll do that Friday then. As far as the drain plug, I believe I read that it's a 18Mx1.5mm whereas the oil plug is 14Mx1.5. That's just the length tho I believe. What do you mean by probable need for "spacer" if hole is recessed? I was also thinking about, and would like to run this idea by you guys. How about trying to reuse the bolt or buy another that is the same size and coating some of the threads as well as the washer with gasket maker. Lastly, I think that the helicoil option is impractical as far as to cost effectiveness.

Also, I'm going with the whole no question is a stupid question but what does IIRC stand for?

 

You can use the old plug. JB weld can be machined. Buy a tap same size as the plug. Use some JB weld inside on the threads let cure then tap it.

 

Hmm hadn't thought about it like that. Sounds like a great idea and I would be all about it but I'm no machinist and i don't have a tap either. If i can get a temp fix until july, I can do it that way then

 

There are lots of youtube videos showing how to tap and helicoil. Nothing to it. It should be easy on an aluminum case.