Headlight Assembly
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Instructor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 131
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Headlight Assembly
My drivers headlight went out two nights ago. I think it's a circuitry problem..checked all the fuses and none are out. There is however, condensation under my drivers side lights cover. Going to take to the dealership to get replaced. I checked my warranty manual, but saw everything except what I am looking for. Has anyone taken it to the dealership for this and not paid?
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Dublin, CA
I just had my right headlight assembly replaced under warranty because of condensation, but my lamp still worked. The service writer said some BS about washing the car and that is normal... I called BS and it was replaced no problem. So if you are still under the 4yr 50,000 mile warranty you should have no issue.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Isle of Palms,SC
I had to replace my headlight on the passenger side as well a few months ago. I bought a new bulb and a new housing (used on ebay)that didnt work. So i investigated it and took it to Acura for them to double check. It not your wiring. What happened was condesation leaked down into your ballast (the thing that powers your hid bulb). Your ballast is shorted out so you need ot buy a new one. Acura will not just replace thatm they will have to replace the ignitor and ballast roughly $950. You can buy the oem part from Delray's Acura which is 20% below dealer retail (around $225) in Florida and install it yourself. It is somewhat difficult but well worth saving 600 - 700 dollars.
2nd Gear
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Headlight Fogging and light out
Hi,
Also have problem with driver's side headlight fogging. Now the headlight does not work. Ok on brights. Out of town and dealer in N.C. said it is a $2000 - $3000 fix due to time it take aon the drivers side to remove battery etc. I drove it home and will take to local dealer next week. Of course out of warranty. Has anyone who has had this problem on drivers side tried to have work done at a local body shop rather than dealer?
Also have problem with driver's side headlight fogging. Now the headlight does not work. Ok on brights. Out of town and dealer in N.C. said it is a $2000 - $3000 fix due to time it take aon the drivers side to remove battery etc. I drove it home and will take to local dealer next week. Of course out of warranty. Has anyone who has had this problem on drivers side tried to have work done at a local body shop rather than dealer?
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Isle of Palms,SC
You can fix it yourself. THe driver's side light is a little difficult but should not cost 2 - 3K. The ballast or ignitor may may be bad. I bought my headlight casing ($85) used off of ebay as well as my new HID bulb (around $30). Acura is trying to rip you off as usual. Let me know what you have done so far.
Sippy Cup (x2)
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,961
Likes: 9
From: Virginia Beach, VA
Originally Posted by sherryhi
Hi,
Also have problem with driver's side headlight fogging. Now the headlight does not work. Ok on brights. Out of town and dealer in N.C. said it is a $2000 - $3000 fix due to time it take aon the drivers side to remove battery etc. I drove it home and will take to local dealer next week. Of course out of warranty. Has anyone who has had this problem on drivers side tried to have work done at a local body shop rather than dealer?
Also have problem with driver's side headlight fogging. Now the headlight does not work. Ok on brights. Out of town and dealer in N.C. said it is a $2000 - $3000 fix due to time it take aon the drivers side to remove battery etc. I drove it home and will take to local dealer next week. Of course out of warranty. Has anyone who has had this problem on drivers side tried to have work done at a local body shop rather than dealer?
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Sippy Cup (x2)
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,961
Likes: 9
From: Virginia Beach, VA
Here is a post I found by Mr Hyde from a while ago. Like he says, these are the basics. The only reason I can see why the drivers side may be harder is because of the intake getting in the way when you try to unplug the harnesses. I always forget about that b/c I have a CAI. Other than that, they are both the same.
Originally Posted by Mr Hyde
The basics are
Remove the front bumper:
1. First, remove the black plastic piece that covers the radiator support by removing the plugs using a flat head screwdriver while not forgetting the small plugs on either end of the grill.
2. Remove the screws inside each front wheel well towards the upper corner where the bumper meets the fender. Since the pics are down, you may want to crank the steering wheel in the opposite direction so that you can stick your head in there, and see it better.
3. Remove the plastic plugs & bolts on the underside of the bumper that connect it to the plastic undercarriage tray. They will be more visible when you get under the car.
4. Unplug the fogs
5. Pull the bumper forward to release it from the clips holding it on
Now the headlighst will be clearly visible, so
6. Disconnect all the plugs for the low beams, highs, turn signals, etc.
7. Remove the exposed bolts on the top (under the hood), and bottom of the headlamps.
That should be it.
Remove the front bumper:
1. First, remove the black plastic piece that covers the radiator support by removing the plugs using a flat head screwdriver while not forgetting the small plugs on either end of the grill.
2. Remove the screws inside each front wheel well towards the upper corner where the bumper meets the fender. Since the pics are down, you may want to crank the steering wheel in the opposite direction so that you can stick your head in there, and see it better.
3. Remove the plastic plugs & bolts on the underside of the bumper that connect it to the plastic undercarriage tray. They will be more visible when you get under the car.
4. Unplug the fogs
5. Pull the bumper forward to release it from the clips holding it on
Now the headlighst will be clearly visible, so
6. Disconnect all the plugs for the low beams, highs, turn signals, etc.
7. Remove the exposed bolts on the top (under the hood), and bottom of the headlamps.
That should be it.
Flyin' and Drivin'
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,413
Likes: 9
From: Atlanta, GA
Drivers side shouldn't be any different than the PAX side. The radiator reservior slips right off the battery assembly. I just gave it a light tug and it slid off the rails.... and so I pulled the plastic tube off the resevoir, clamped the small hose, and set the reservoir aside... easy as pie.
2nd Gear
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Thanks for the replies Great Dealer Response!
Hi All,
This is a great site. Thanks for all the replies. You all helped in understanding the problem. I have a great ending. My dealer, who I have purchase or leased 5 Acura's from all the way back to the very first Acura TL productions, helped me out with the light/seal replacement based on "owner loyalty". There are still great Acura dealers out there. I am thinking about selling the TL and buying my daughters 2005 MDX due totally to their support of a long time Acura owner. I really wished Acura would develop a convertible.
Thumbsup for Acura!
This is a great site. Thanks for all the replies. You all helped in understanding the problem. I have a great ending. My dealer, who I have purchase or leased 5 Acura's from all the way back to the very first Acura TL productions, helped me out with the light/seal replacement based on "owner loyalty". There are still great Acura dealers out there. I am thinking about selling the TL and buying my daughters 2005 MDX due totally to their support of a long time Acura owner. I really wished Acura would develop a convertible.
Thumbsup for Acura!
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