StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

OK, so I had these daul piston NSX calipers laying around w/greenstuff pads just waiting to order some rotors.. Wll my tranny went and now i had no money to but new calipers.. So i just had my old ones cut and calipers installed.. He cut them and was getting ready to bleed them when I walked back there w/ a co worker to show him the NSX calipers on the car he had the Power steering top off ready to fill it with brake fluid.. When I asked he said , I was just checking.. I bought a funnel and Castrol GT LMA fluid and told him to fill the caliper B$ putting them on so it was filled with fluid , but HE is a Licensed tech and knows what he is doing so He did not fill them B4 install just put them on and bled them with a AIR Bleeder powered by compresser and used 1/2 bottle of fluid, he says car is done..
I drive it the pedal goes to the floor and doe not stop and red BRAKE light is on..WTF
So he said park it and i'll re-bleed it the old way... I am frigtened for my life!
When he started working on my car the other techs scared me that he was horrible now I dunno!

jjashaa

iTrader: (23)

lol


DIY ftw. =]

FirePR2002

this is why i do my own work. good luck with the repair!

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

I usally do most my own work, at the old dlr i used to work at they let me use the lifts and there tools, but this DLR does not let me touch my car (for insurance reasons) But they only charge workers $30 a hour. So i was gonna help him but he thought he knew it all.
We put the car on the lift and it was leaking fluid from the washers so we replaced the fluid and stoped the leak. Now he has to bleed them again.
He says if he just bleeds the front they should be fine, should I make him bleed the whole car?

FirePR2002

don't let him touch the car - see what he's done already?!?!?!?!?!?!?! brakes are a vital part in keeping the car and its passengers (as well as anyone else in the way) safe.

leaking from the washers? were they not tight or did he not pay attention to the nubs that hold the lines in place?

FirePR2002

the whole car needs to be bled (including the ABS module) all the way around.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

that sucks. and i do all my own work myself, too. keep an eye on what they do to ur car.

totaledTL

... old ones cut... <-- what does that mean?

Did he replace the crush washers? Torque the brake lines to the correct spec? Sounds like he shouldn't go near it again. Didn't he even test drive it before giving it back?

andrew070489

i beleive he meant he had this old rotors cut, as is straightened.

fsttyms1

The system just needs to be rebled

01tl4tl

and in the correct order= LF driver front then clockwise around the car LF RF RR LR
anything else is wrong- especially doing rears first like most cars

NEW crush washers MUST be used on brake line to caliper or they will leak

Now it has to be rebled correctly-
THEN since then lines were opened there is a good possibilty of air being in the ABS control box
All you have to do- per acura book- at 45mph do a full effort abs engaged full stop, then accellerate to 45mph and repeat full stop ABS engaged
May have to throw water on road to gt ABS active
IF they pedal felt stiffer 2nd time you had air in ABS which is now moved out and to a caliper- usually LF- so bleed system again and all is well

Did the calipers get installed right- so the bleeder is on top of the caliper?
meaning the one with the big L was installed on right side -passenger side of car?

01tl4tl

the reason to prefill the calipers is for manual `pump the pedal` bleeding
Having fluid in protects the oring seal and makes the job go much faster.

Machine pressure or suction doesnt move the pistons, so its not a real issue
with those methods

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

OK i printed out the correct way to BLEED the car from the HELMS book and left it and when I went back there they had 3 techs bleeding it. So they got new washers made sure it did not leaking. So the put new washers and now its no longer leaking sprayed break clean and dried it all off.. No LEAKS..
Then bled front driver ,front passenger, then back to front driver, front passenger , rear passenger, rear driver... Break pedal FEELS NICE AND TIGHT NOW... Drove it and drives fine brake pedal feels really good..

When I said old ones cut, I mean cut my old rotors that are on the car.. These rotors are less then a year old and warped bad, I was gonna buy DBA or EBC rotors BUT have no money since I just got my tranny rebuilt, SO I cut the OLDER rotors.. Rotors that are only 1 year old..

I had NSX calipers and GREEN STUFF pads just laying around, so I got them put on today cuz IM sick of warped rotors and hopefully this helps, people say that the NSX calipers will not help with the warping BUT we will see cuz I am using the Same rotors that warped in 9-10 month w/stock calipers so we will see what happens with daul piston calipers....

Thanks o1tlo4tl for the advice, so basically take it EASY onm the brakes for now!

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

they will warp again, even faster since the rotors are thinner.

FirePR2002

keep us posted on this as i believe the rotors will warp again, but wish you the best!

FirePR2002

and "more" pressure from the dual pistons....more meaning "more even."

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

I will keep you guys posted , I think it will not warp as fast but good point with the rotor being a little thinner and warping faster . This is the first time that these rotors where cut and when the tech (who has no clue) was cuting it he even said these rotors shake when u brake cuz they are alot thincker up top the bottom so he saw they where warped. HOPEFULLY they last long long time w/o warping but the last time they where warped BAD people that where pasengers felt the warpage when i brokeZ!

01tl4tl

read EBCs website and use their pad bedding directions

With fresh surfaced rotors and new pads its going to take a few beddings to get the pads conditioned and then make a material transfer lay onto the rotor
Thats what makes brakes last longer and stop better- that layer of pad on the rotor
Friction dynamics indicate same materials grip harder~

take it easy- brake early for lights next 100 miles as they start to work better.
and in general avoid ABS first 500 miles- then good to play

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

I think my NSX caliper is no good! Frozen...

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OK installing these calipers was suppose to be the easiest thing, I swaped out calipers no problem but this has turned into HELL.. The tech did not bleed them correctly and then he did and said they were fine.. I took it on a test drive and fine.. On my way home I heard like scratching noise from front passenger side so pulled over and there was ALOT OF HEAT comming from my passenger front tire and my EBC greenstuff pad was PURPLE!!! it was so HOT..
So i got home jacked up the car and took the caliper off, took me some prying w/flatehead screwdriver but it DID come off , IT was SOO hot..
So i pushed both pistons back It really was not very hard (BTW my rotors looked like a rainbow) but got the piston back with ease.. Poped it back on a went on a quick drive and STILL my passenger tire was alot hotter then the driver tire.. I thought the caliper was fine b/cuz it was able to get pushed back with ease but is still screaching and still heating up everything and the smell is nasty also comming from the brakes... Why me???

So is there anyway I can tell if it is deff the caliper or what on earth else can it possibly be?

Thanks guys!

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

If the caliper is not frozen then what else would cause the pads to stay pressed against to rotors? If the caliper is frozen is there any way to trouble shoot it and find out?

totaledTL

Are the pads for those calipers the same as for the TL? What happened with the brake light? Was it just low on fluid?
I would expect that if you're using the (crappy) OEM rotors over they will warp again in short order.
Maybe it would be helpful if you post some pics of the caliper that's getting hot.

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

Ok I took the caliper off and pushed it back with no problems, the caliper was able to push back with no problems.. I pushed the pistons back and put it back BUT still have it pressed against the rotor.. The passenger side got soo hot that the pad turned from green to purple! Guys help me out what can it be?

FirePR2002

tell us more about these calipers. where did you get them? were they remanufactured or rebuilt?

is the rotor seated against the hub properly? sounds like it could be a sticking caliper - but how did the wear on the pads on that corner look? uneven?

do you know anybody else (not this tech) that can help you diagnose and repair - someone that isn't stoned?

01tl4tl

remove the caliper and place a small piece of 2x4 wood block in it- have friend depress brake pedal slowly and watch pistons extend- the 2x4 keeps them from popping out of the caliper
When you release the pressure they should ease back off slighty
Piston Travel when on the rotor is a just few MM when you apply the brakes,
and the pads should sit about 1mm off the rotor when in motion not being used
The slight surface variaitions in the pads and rotor contribute to pushing the pistons back in slightly - but they should want to on their own, and go in with some effort against the static pressure of the fluid

Check the other sides caliper- if its not working for some reason, the right side will be doing all the work and overheat
Are the bleeder nipples on top of the caliper?

I would rebleed them- knowing the idiots still didnt follow instructions and did lf rf lf again...the rr lr, iirc

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

I watched them bleed them and they did do it right cuz i told them how to do it.. The driver side caliper is fine the pad is still green (ebc greenstuff) and brakes fine. The passenger pad is black/purple and when I tried taking the caliper off it was pretty jammed on there, i finally pried it off. I pushed the piston back with ease but I put it back on but and having the same problem, the pasenger wheel got hotter the driver, was not as hot as yesterday but still heat up more then it should hav and it still squeeled..

The rubber stopper was NOT on the BLEEDER but the rubber stopper should not make a difference , should it?

I got the NSX calipers off ROckauto ther where rebuilt buy ac delco and they LOOKED BRAND NEW. And i Used to get stoned alot but that was when i joined acuracl.com 8-9 years back..

I am gonna replace the brake hose I have on extra I ordered years ago it was for the front driver but should be the same for the front passenger, correct?

fsttyms1

What pads did you use, were they for the TL/CL?

Do the pads move freely in the bracket or are they hanging up?

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

I used pads for the CL..

The calipers are on correct but on the NSX calipers the hose hooks up lower then the CL caliper so the Hose is streched a little if u use stock brake hoses.
The passanger side looked a little kinked so I replaced to hose just nowand made sure it did not leak and re-bled.. when the car was in the air and i pressed the brakes the hose moved as the fluid went back and forth so the fluid is comming back now the old hose was a little spun and kinked to get it top reach the NSX hole.. The damage is done the caliper is ORANGE red and the rotor is DONE like a rainbow, I just did this today to hopefully fix the problem till me new Caliper comes, the are sending it out monday.. After the hose i still hear screeching from the passanger and the caliper still heats up more on passanger side then drive side so the caliper is the problem I belive!

01tl4tl

tell me again why the NSX calipers were a better choice for the TL/CL
than the 95 Legend LS-C calipers

My new SS lines went on with no problem to the legends
Did the shop kink the lines? Im guessing this was a new job for them and first CL/TL brake bleed

Make sure the sliders for the pad end tabs are lubed with caliper grease- with that temp any existing grease is baked and useless...

01tl4tl

please dont drive it until its fixed
Fire is a bummer- especially after all the work you have just done

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

The NSX calipers are left on left and right on right not like the legends that have to be reversed.. The NSX calipers where only like $20 more so I went w/them..
I have the helms manual and printed out the bleeding process and watched them bleed it correctly.. The good techs get paid by hours the accomplish and they get 70-80 hours in a 40 hour week so they have to give my car to $10 a hour techs that have no clue..Today i had the best tech helping me so it should be better ..
I really think its the caliper i no good, cuz i changed the hose and bled it correctly it should be fine but i think its still rubbin we will see. I will order a new caliper and rotors on monday they will reiemburse me when the old caliper gets there..
Even if this fixes it i have to get a new caliper cuz this one is red/orange the rubber deff was comprimised!

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

I even changed the blake hose to a new one, I thought maybee the hose collapsed but still rubbing so i tried my old pads which had 60% life left still rubbing, eliminated everything except the calliper being bad..

The passenger caliper is the right hand side one when ordering , correct?
I hope so cuz I ordered the right hand side one!

It can not be the master brake cylinder cuz onle 1 of the brakes stay compressed, if it was the master cylinder it would not just be 1 , correct?

I hope I eliminated all the problems and it is the calipers cuz everytime I try and upgrading me car it bites me in the butt!

fsttyms1

Did you make sure the pads are moving freely in the bracket? Did you change the bracket hardware or grease that area?

01tl4tl

hmmm- which caliper brackets did they use?
on a TL with the legend calipers you use TL brackets--I dont know about nsx

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

No bravket stayed the same and pads moved FREELY, when i poped the caliper off both times they just fell off.
I think its 100% the caliper..