this all started when I switched my intake anf put on my shifter cable bushing. I diconected a groung on the shifter cable housing on the tranny and I drove lie that and all of a sudden I couldn't go passed 2000 rpm. so I went and reconnected the ground and it was still doing it.

I just too it to autozone and scanned it and these sre the codes.

P0450-evap emmision control pressure fault
P0336-crankshaft position sensor
P0141- o2 sensor heater malfunction, which im not worried about because I have no cat.
P0219-engine overspeed condition

I reset the codes but im kind of afraid to go above 2000 rpm even though its letting me.

any advice wold be greatly appreciated on how to fix this.

 

you just freaked the computer and it went into limp mode thinking there was an over rev condition- reset and all should be well

 

^ agree. You disconnected a vital ground. Just reset it and take er for a spin. (making sure the ground is back on)

 

well that fixed the problem..... I love you guys lol.....

I reset the codes with the scanner and made sure everything was connected. Yeah I freaked out the computer, but that freaked me out. I thought my car was dead. I checked everything timing and all and everything was good.

I swear the smallest things can mean big problems

 

hahahaha. yea that was most likely one of the grounds for a bunch of components and it triggered a bunch.

 

it did it for a little bit when I started the car. so I shut it off then back on and its fine. I think I might have a small vac leak or something.

either way this car is sooooooo much easier to work on then my wifes 1.8T im new to the whole turbo thing.

 

diesels suck!

 

yeah and pluto is cold.

the 1.8 turbo is not a diesel. but hey theres nothing wrong with saying how you feel.

 

OK the problem is back. I didnt disconnect anything, it was running perfect earlier, I was able to get into vtec and everything, and right now I just went to get some food and I couldnt get past 2000 rpm again...... Im thinking it might be my IACV but that wasnt one of the codes.

If for some reason one or all of those codes were real, what would cause a malfunction like this.

Oh and it is kinda cold out, not sure if that has anything to do with it or not.

 

You're not getting any codes?

 

any advice guys. im going back to autozone to scan it and erase it, but what f it keeps happening..... faulty ecu maybe?

 

well I scanned the car again and it came up with the crank sensor code. I reset it and it came back as soon as I drove off.

while I was at a job interview for a automotive performance shop they owner wanted to look at my car, I was looking all around and I pulled one of the connectors out from behind the trans and one of the little plugs was completely covered in some kind of green slime. it didn't look like corrosion. it almost loked like engine coolant had built up in there.

im going to try cleaning out that cocnnector and see what happens.

I remember before that I had forgotten to plug that sensor when I was doing some work and the car wouldn't go past 2k rpm. hopefully its just the dirty connector and nothing else.

well see.

 

clean that and put some dielectric grease on it. Also see if you can find out what is causing that "funk"

 

well I cleaned the connector and the sensor side connector and its still doing it. im not sure what caused that green stuff, I think it was from when I switched throttle bodies and coolant poured out.

as for the cause of the code I am unsure. I just don't want to deal with the crank sensor by the crank pulley. that is a bitch to get to.

 

Well this is what alldatadiy says that crank sensor codes mean, and what I need to do. I dont have a multimeter, but Im just gonna check the connections:

1. Reset the PCM.
2. Start the engine. Is DTC P0335 and/or P0336 indicated? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections or loose wires at the CKP sensor and the PCM.
3. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
4. Disconnect the CKP sensor 2P connector.



5. Measure resistance between CKP sensor 2P connector terminals No.1 and No.2. Is there 1,850 - 2,450 Ohm ? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Replace the CKP sensor.



6. Check for continuity between body ground and CKP sensor 2P connector terminals No.1 and No.2 individually. Is there continuity? YES - Replace the CKP sensor. NO - Go to step 7.
7. Reconnect the CKP sensor 2P connector.
8. Disconnect the PCM connector C (31P).



9. Measure resistance between PCM connector terminals C8 and C9. Is there 1,850 - 2,450 Ohm ? YES - Go to step 10. NO - Repair open in the wire between the PCM (C8, C9) and CKP sensor.




10. Check for continuity between body ground and PCM connector terminal C8. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the PCM (C8) and the CKP sensor. NO - Substitute a known-good PCM and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original PCM.

 

Well I found the freakin problem...... here are the pics.





As you can see... kinda.... one of the prongs on the crank sensor broke off, probably from the coolant that some how snuck in there and after time just corroded the shit out of it and it snapped.

Im in the process right now of soldering it back on. Well see if it works.

Thats if anybody cares lol.

 

wow those pics look like crap. Im using a camera phone.... but you would think that 1.3 mp would be better.... oh well.

The top pic shows that pne of the prongs is missing. Its the farleft prong. and the bottom pic shows the broken prong on the right side of the sensor.

 

hmm hopefully it works and you wont have to get a new one

 

I soldered it, but Im not sure if it will hold. I will eventually need to get a new one, but this will have to work for now. I installed it and pulled the Clock Back Up fuse to reset the ECU and in about 20 mins Im gonna test drive it to see if it works......

 

Soldered and problem fixed..... we'll see how long it last though lol/