on going problemo!
06-08-2008, 12:59 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
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on going problemo!
Ok so I've had this annoying front end shaking thats been going on for a while now, and its really pissing me the @!$# OFF!. I took it to the acura dealer on friday, had them look at everything, and they said all looks to be ok. Personally i think their fu^kin the dog on this one. They recommended me to a local front end alignment shop, cause my car was apparently to low for their alignment hoist 
. The thing is it happens MOSTLY between 40-60mph and mostly under acceleration, if i let off the gas and cruise it lessens out. I've checked the cv shafts my self, and they are good. as for the mounts, I'm not a 100% sure. my ball joints are shot though and my shocks might also be shot. I'm looking for guidance from the Acurazine guru's!! help me out guys!!
. The thing is it happens MOSTLY between 40-60mph and mostly under acceleration, if i let off the gas and cruise it lessens out. I've checked the cv shafts my self, and they are good. as for the mounts, I'm not a 100% sure. my ball joints are shot though and my shocks might also be shot. I'm looking for guidance from the Acurazine guru's!! help me out guys!!
06-08-2008, 01:16 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
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ya i saw that one as well. but he still doesn't have a definite answer to his problem. and my car right now isn't very fun to drive because of all the horrible shaking.
06-08-2008, 04:29 PM
#4
you know the ball joints are shot- thats going to make the car shake and be dangerous to drive at all
REPLACE those, both sides of the car, then look at the control arm bushings, both ends
Sometimes severe shake can cause wear on other parts
Its possible to have a bad cv axle bearing and not hear it- the outboard one goes click click click at low speeds when turning, but the inboard one is hooked to the trans output.
It may only make noise at speed and throttle changes
Look for a shop with the alignment rack sunken into the floor- the lowest car can drive straight on. Make some calls from phone book listings/ads. Places that advertise lowered cars and larger rims will be able to help you with the ball joints, and the alignment it will need afterwards
REPLACE those, both sides of the car, then look at the control arm bushings, both ends
Sometimes severe shake can cause wear on other parts
Its possible to have a bad cv axle bearing and not hear it- the outboard one goes click click click at low speeds when turning, but the inboard one is hooked to the trans output.
It may only make noise at speed and throttle changes
Look for a shop with the alignment rack sunken into the floor- the lowest car can drive straight on. Make some calls from phone book listings/ads. Places that advertise lowered cars and larger rims will be able to help you with the ball joints, and the alignment it will need afterwards
06-09-2008, 12:00 AM
#7
Something is missing...my
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
you know the ball joints are shot- thats going to make the car shake and be dangerous to drive at all
REPLACE those, both sides of the car, then look at the control arm bushings, both ends
Sometimes severe shake can cause wear on other parts
Its possible to have a bad cv axle bearing and not hear it- the outboard one goes click click click at low speeds when turning, but the inboard one is hooked to the trans output.
It may only make noise at speed and throttle changes
Look for a shop with the alignment rack sunken into the floor- the lowest car can drive straight on. Make some calls from phone book listings/ads. Places that advertise lowered cars and larger rims will be able to help you with the ball joints, and the alignment it will need afterwards
REPLACE those, both sides of the car, then look at the control arm bushings, both ends
Sometimes severe shake can cause wear on other parts
Its possible to have a bad cv axle bearing and not hear it- the outboard one goes click click click at low speeds when turning, but the inboard one is hooked to the trans output.
It may only make noise at speed and throttle changes
Look for a shop with the alignment rack sunken into the floor- the lowest car can drive straight on. Make some calls from phone book listings/ads. Places that advertise lowered cars and larger rims will be able to help you with the ball joints, and the alignment it will need afterwards
inners are hard to know when bad - no leaks and noises a lot of the time, other than shaking and occasional noise. Does the problem worsen when going over a dip on the highway?
Also definitely check the ball joints.
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06-17-2008, 08:09 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
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well i have yet to change the ball joints, because i am very very lazy .. but i was under the car checking it out today, the front motor mount looks good, the driver side axle has a little hole in it and is leaking out grease, and the balljoints are absolutely fooked... ohh and to add the list, i now have rotor warpage! yay!!!! anyone want to come over and do all this work for me? :p
.. but i was under the car checking it out today, the front motor mount looks good, the driver side axle has a little hole in it and is leaking out grease, and the balljoints are absolutely fooked... ohh and to add the list, i now have rotor warpage! yay!!!! anyone want to come over and do all this work for me? :p
06-17-2008, 08:15 PM
#10
if the boot for the cv axle bearing is torn and you see grease- that means the grease is gone out, and the grit is going in- a definite reason for replacement. ASAP!!!!
After you replace the known bad ball joints and this bad axle/ cv assembly thats leaking, then we can work on the brake issue. Its likely not sudden rotor warpage- unless on stock rotors still.
Once the ball joints and axle are installed- then get it aligned,,,
a trip to the alignment shop to have them confirm the needed parts and get a labor price.....
get this done- its no joking around with suspension- steering
After you replace the known bad ball joints and this bad axle/ cv assembly thats leaking, then we can work on the brake issue. Its likely not sudden rotor warpage- unless on stock rotors still.
Once the ball joints and axle are installed- then get it aligned,,,
a trip to the alignment shop to have them confirm the needed parts and get a labor price.....
get this done- its no joking around with suspension- steering
06-17-2008, 08:27 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
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ya, i think im going to just stop driving it for a few days untill i complete everything...take transit to school 
. but the parts are cheap, $60 for 2 balljoints and about $70 for an axle.. and to me at least, it looks like its running on the stock rotors :|!! it might also be a good time to get a seafoam treatment done!
. but the parts are cheap, $60 for 2 balljoints and about $70 for an axle.. and to me at least, it looks like its running on the stock rotors :|!! it might also be a good time to get a seafoam treatment done!
06-17-2008, 08:51 PM
#12
Its always time for a Seafoam!
Now I am hooked on its aerosol can dispenser with a straw- sold as Deep Creep-
its 100% seafoam in a spray can- with more room on can to describe its many uses I never thought of!
Using the straw- held an inch away from the vac port- makes it easy to see exactly how much you are putting in with each squirt, and get to see physics in action!
Shake the can to confirm amount used as you go.
You can spray the TB plate easily, which many people are neglecting to clean with a TB spray when foaming the intake--
I am going to spray all around inside the valve covers thru the oil fill cap and whatever opening on the other set-there is a lot of grunge lives up there, then use regular liquid foam in the oil---
Now I am hooked on its aerosol can dispenser with a straw- sold as Deep Creep-
its 100% seafoam in a spray can- with more room on can to describe its many uses I never thought of!
Using the straw- held an inch away from the vac port- makes it easy to see exactly how much you are putting in with each squirt, and get to see physics in action!
Shake the can to confirm amount used as you go.
You can spray the TB plate easily, which many people are neglecting to clean with a TB spray when foaming the intake--
I am going to spray all around inside the valve covers thru the oil fill cap and whatever opening on the other set-there is a lot of grunge lives up there, then use regular liquid foam in the oil---
06-18-2008, 01:52 AM
#15
did you notice that ~whoever~ jacked my avatar, also tampered with my sig!
Gather round and I will tell you now my friends--- I tried seafoam in a spray can-
sold as Deep Creep- same size, same price- contains 100% seafoam, and makes it possible for `anyone` to figure out how to get a little sip sip sip at a time into the engine.
No clear hose or seperate container required!!
Simply remove vac hose- aim straw at vac port- push button- watch stuff squirt out and turn into a tornado entering the engine. Its much more entertaining and easy to do now.
Will make a fresh DIY with it. Everyone needs to try it!
Gather round and I will tell you now my friends--- I tried seafoam in a spray can-
sold as Deep Creep- same size, same price- contains 100% seafoam, and makes it possible for `anyone` to figure out how to get a little sip sip sip at a time into the engine.
No clear hose or seperate container required!!
Simply remove vac hose- aim straw at vac port- push button- watch stuff squirt out and turn into a tornado entering the engine. Its much more entertaining and easy to do now.
Will make a fresh DIY with it. Everyone needs to try it!
06-18-2008, 01:56 AM
#16
rob- if you really need help-- I can meet you and demonstrate how to put seafoam in very slowly---- so it has time to do its work
Then I can show you how to fix brake noises too!!!
Then I can show you how to fix brake noises too!!!
06-18-2008, 04:51 PM
#18
Burning Brakes
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tom i saw that spray can of seafoam, while i was at napa today.. its pretty cheap about 7 bucks.. got the axle.. just waiting for it to come in, and i think im going to take the car someplace to get the ball joints done, too much work to do in my small garage..
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