Fuel efficiency
Fuel efficiency
Some might have posted before but I wanted to know what is the average fuel efficiency that you guys are getting.
I get about 200-240 miles to the tank with a combination of city and little high way speeds (suburban setting). Seems pretty low to me although I dont expect a whooping 25mpg or anything still seems low.
I get about 200-240 miles to the tank with a combination of city and little high way speeds (suburban setting). Seems pretty low to me although I dont expect a whooping 25mpg or anything still seems low.
winter tune up in a can- buy 2 $10 cans of seafoam , add 1 at half tank, add 2nd when next tank is down just past half
if spark plugs are older than 70kmiles replace them with NGK Iridiums 8$ each
Ck your air filter, major source of bad mpg- the engine cant breathe!
run tire pressures near max cold for the most mpg from them
ck wheel alignment, does the car wander or go nice and straight on its own?
in town is the worst for us, drive gently- rpm below 2500 with mild throttle application and lift off throttle when you see a red light ahead, let it coast in D5, or D4 in city is good to use- the light goes green and you are still roiling- that really helps the ol mpg!
other maintenance: clean or replace PCV valve. many are clogging now-effects running.
remove intake manifold and clean egr ports and passage plus service the throttle body and idle control in it
300-350 is average for mixed driving
the low fuel light comes on at 3 gal remaining of 17.3 total capacity
of which 16.7 is useable- or as far past the light as I was willing to go before refueling!!
If mostly short trips give it a good 30 minute run on the freeway once a week to dry out the fluids and exhaust systems absorbed moisture- very important! also charges the battery fully
if spark plugs are older than 70kmiles replace them with NGK Iridiums 8$ each
Ck your air filter, major source of bad mpg- the engine cant breathe!
run tire pressures near max cold for the most mpg from them
ck wheel alignment, does the car wander or go nice and straight on its own?
in town is the worst for us, drive gently- rpm below 2500 with mild throttle application and lift off throttle when you see a red light ahead, let it coast in D5, or D4 in city is good to use- the light goes green and you are still roiling- that really helps the ol mpg!
other maintenance: clean or replace PCV valve. many are clogging now-effects running.
remove intake manifold and clean egr ports and passage plus service the throttle body and idle control in it
300-350 is average for mixed driving
the low fuel light comes on at 3 gal remaining of 17.3 total capacity
of which 16.7 is useable- or as far past the light as I was willing to go before refueling!!
If mostly short trips give it a good 30 minute run on the freeway once a week to dry out the fluids and exhaust systems absorbed moisture- very important! also charges the battery fully
winter tune up in a can- buy 2 $10 cans of seafoam , add 1 at half tank, add 2nd when next tank is down just past half
if spark plugs are older than 70kmiles replace them with NGK Iridiums 8$ each
Ck your air filter, major source of bad mpg- the engine cant breathe!
run tire pressures near max cold for the most mpg from them
ck wheel alignment, does the car wander or go nice and straight on its own?
in town is the worst for us, drive gently- rpm below 2500 with mild throttle application and lift off throttle when you see a red light ahead, let it coast in D5, or D4 in city is good to use- the light goes green and you are still roiling- that really helps the ol mpg!
other maintenance: clean or replace PCV valve. many are clogging now-effects running.
remove intake manifold and clean egr ports and passage plus service the throttle body and idle control in it
300-350 is average for mixed driving
the low fuel light comes on at 3 gal remaining of 17.3 total capacity
of which 16.7 is useable- or as far past the light as I was willing to go before refueling!!
If mostly short trips give it a good 30 minute run on the freeway once a week to dry out the fluids and exhaust systems absorbed moisture- very important! also charges the battery fully
if spark plugs are older than 70kmiles replace them with NGK Iridiums 8$ each
Ck your air filter, major source of bad mpg- the engine cant breathe!
run tire pressures near max cold for the most mpg from them
ck wheel alignment, does the car wander or go nice and straight on its own?
in town is the worst for us, drive gently- rpm below 2500 with mild throttle application and lift off throttle when you see a red light ahead, let it coast in D5, or D4 in city is good to use- the light goes green and you are still roiling- that really helps the ol mpg!
other maintenance: clean or replace PCV valve. many are clogging now-effects running.
remove intake manifold and clean egr ports and passage plus service the throttle body and idle control in it
300-350 is average for mixed driving
the low fuel light comes on at 3 gal remaining of 17.3 total capacity
of which 16.7 is useable- or as far past the light as I was willing to go before refueling!!
If mostly short trips give it a good 30 minute run on the freeway once a week to dry out the fluids and exhaust systems absorbed moisture- very important! also charges the battery fully
I will research how to clean the pcv valve, meanwhile I cleaned the throttle body.
I've owned the car for less than 10k miles bought it on May this year. 03 type-s with 148k miles
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seafoam takes a full effort- 2 cans- one vac port and one gas, or both thru gas tank (noob method) Most notice a slight performance increase- smoothness or increase in MPG, which is the real goal
Many don't get a perfect job on first attempt at seafoam- that's why I say use it two times thru the gas- as driving time and heat are helpful with this cleaner
you only need to inspect 1 front spark plug for wear- if the center tip part is flat on its top edge= its fine
If worn to a sharp point = its worn to replacement time! do all at once = they get the same use~
see our diy section for correct tools and procedure- there are tricks to make rears much easier, only 1 remains a small pita
slip the PCV from its hose over rear valve cover and shoot carb cleaner or deep creep (seafoam aerosol) into it until the ball moves freely
the alignment being off is killing your mpg as the car tries to split itself in two~
remove air tube from air filter box to TB, carb cleaner there at the round TB Air Plate- get both sides and the edges really good- (use throttle to open the air plate)
May need toothbrush (have any younger siblings?) to get the carbon buildup removed
Wipe up runoff with a paper towel- engine may run funny a few seconds after start due to the extra mix of carb cleaner and its volatility compared to fuel
Make sure to buy `tier 1` or `top tier` brand gas - that's most major name places
and use 91 octane- or higher if they have it
do not run 87 or 89, bad in the long run and kills mpg!
replace the cabin air filter- suggest one with carbon or anti micro-bacterial stuff added for healthier breathing oxygen being delivered into the cabin
once again our diy hooks you up, 20 minute job
A dirty cabin filter makes you run the fan on higher speed- which takes electricity the alt must make to add back to battery = uses fuel!
note!! old diy says to cut a cover piece with dremel- that's only needed if filters 1st time being replaced - AND you can use kitchen scissors or wire cutters to severe the small plastic tabs- made to bend and break free!
cover goes back on 90 degrees to how it was- --designed that way
Many don't get a perfect job on first attempt at seafoam- that's why I say use it two times thru the gas- as driving time and heat are helpful with this cleaner
you only need to inspect 1 front spark plug for wear- if the center tip part is flat on its top edge= its fine
If worn to a sharp point = its worn to replacement time! do all at once = they get the same use~
see our diy section for correct tools and procedure- there are tricks to make rears much easier, only 1 remains a small pita
slip the PCV from its hose over rear valve cover and shoot carb cleaner or deep creep (seafoam aerosol) into it until the ball moves freely
the alignment being off is killing your mpg as the car tries to split itself in two~
remove air tube from air filter box to TB, carb cleaner there at the round TB Air Plate- get both sides and the edges really good- (use throttle to open the air plate)
May need toothbrush (have any younger siblings?) to get the carbon buildup removed
Wipe up runoff with a paper towel- engine may run funny a few seconds after start due to the extra mix of carb cleaner and its volatility compared to fuel
Make sure to buy `tier 1` or `top tier` brand gas - that's most major name places
and use 91 octane- or higher if they have it
do not run 87 or 89, bad in the long run and kills mpg!
replace the cabin air filter- suggest one with carbon or anti micro-bacterial stuff added for healthier breathing oxygen being delivered into the cabin

once again our diy hooks you up, 20 minute job
A dirty cabin filter makes you run the fan on higher speed- which takes electricity the alt must make to add back to battery = uses fuel!
note!! old diy says to cut a cover piece with dremel- that's only needed if filters 1st time being replaced - AND you can use kitchen scissors or wire cutters to severe the small plastic tabs- made to bend and break free!
cover goes back on 90 degrees to how it was- --designed that way
Last edited by 01tl4tl; Dec 7, 2014 at 11:16 AM.
seafoam takes a full effort- 2 cans- one vac port and one gas, or both thru gas tank (noob method) Most notice a slight performance increase- smoothness or increase in MPG, which is the real goal
Many don't get a perfect job on first attempt at seafoam- that's why I say use it two times thru the gas- as driving time and heat are helpful with this cleaner
you only need to inspect 1 front spark plug for wear- if the center tip part is flat on its top edge= its fine
If worn to a sharp point = its worn to replacement time! do all at once = they get the same use~
see our diy section for correct tools and procedure- there are tricks to make rears much easier, only 1 remains a small pita
slip the PCV from its hose over rear valve cover and shoot carb cleaner or deep creep (seafoam aerosol) into it until the ball moves freely
the alignment being off is killing your mpg as the car tries to split itself in two~
remove air tube from air filter box to TB, carb cleaner there at the round TB Air Plate- get both sides and the edges really good- (use throttle to open the air plate)
May need toothbrush (have any younger siblings?) to get the carbon buildup removed
Wipe up runoff with a paper towel- engine may run funny a few seconds after start due to the extra mix of carb cleaner and its volatility compared to fuel
Make sure to buy `tier 1` or `top tier` brand gas - that's most major name places
and use 91 octane- or higher if they have it
do not run 87 or 89, bad in the long run and kills mpg!
replace the cabin air filter- suggest one with carbon or anti micro-bacterial stuff added for healthier breathing oxygen being delivered into the cabin
once again our diy hooks you up, 20 minute job
A dirty cabin filter makes you run the fan on higher speed- which takes electricity the alt must make to add back to battery = uses fuel!
note!! old diy says to cut a cover piece with dremel- that's only needed if filters 1st time being replaced - AND you can use kitchen scissors or wire cutters to severe the small plastic tabs- made to bend and break free!
cover goes back on 90 degrees to how it was- --designed that way
Many don't get a perfect job on first attempt at seafoam- that's why I say use it two times thru the gas- as driving time and heat are helpful with this cleaner
you only need to inspect 1 front spark plug for wear- if the center tip part is flat on its top edge= its fine
If worn to a sharp point = its worn to replacement time! do all at once = they get the same use~
see our diy section for correct tools and procedure- there are tricks to make rears much easier, only 1 remains a small pita
slip the PCV from its hose over rear valve cover and shoot carb cleaner or deep creep (seafoam aerosol) into it until the ball moves freely
the alignment being off is killing your mpg as the car tries to split itself in two~
remove air tube from air filter box to TB, carb cleaner there at the round TB Air Plate- get both sides and the edges really good- (use throttle to open the air plate)
May need toothbrush (have any younger siblings?) to get the carbon buildup removed
Wipe up runoff with a paper towel- engine may run funny a few seconds after start due to the extra mix of carb cleaner and its volatility compared to fuel
Make sure to buy `tier 1` or `top tier` brand gas - that's most major name places
and use 91 octane- or higher if they have it
do not run 87 or 89, bad in the long run and kills mpg!
replace the cabin air filter- suggest one with carbon or anti micro-bacterial stuff added for healthier breathing oxygen being delivered into the cabin

once again our diy hooks you up, 20 minute job
A dirty cabin filter makes you run the fan on higher speed- which takes electricity the alt must make to add back to battery = uses fuel!
note!! old diy says to cut a cover piece with dremel- that's only needed if filters 1st time being replaced - AND you can use kitchen scissors or wire cutters to severe the small plastic tabs- made to bend and break free!
cover goes back on 90 degrees to how it was- --designed that way
I will look through all the diy on the things you named to see if I can bring the mpg up just a bit at least.
To OP that is very low range.. When I was stock I could get +20mpg in the city and 27-28hwy. Now I can get 24-25city and +30hwy consistently.. That's around 27 average which is 4 cyl MPG all the way.
lucas works IF you use it at max dose- not that bs on the label about treats 8 to 25 gal
That means use in 8 gallons!!
spark plug are likely overdue, maybe a new front O2 sensor if mpg still suffers, learn to drive without using vtec so much~
That means use in 8 gallons!!
spark plug are likely overdue, maybe a new front O2 sensor if mpg still suffers, learn to drive without using vtec so much~
Confirmed for Silicon Valley city commuting (city) and highway. These are heavy cars. Around 30+ mpg freeway with no hills up to 70 mph. 3 mile trips to the grocery store will get you 16 or 17 mpg.
If you make a lot of short trips- under 10 miles, once a week take the car on a good freeway blast- legal speeds~ for 30 minutes
Thats needed to fully recharge the battery and dry moisture from all the fluid systems and exhaust
See all the water coming from other cars tailpipe??- that's you too,, and water must be dried by what??? Heat! from driving
Thats needed to fully recharge the battery and dry moisture from all the fluid systems and exhaust
See all the water coming from other cars tailpipe??- that's you too,, and water must be dried by what??? Heat! from driving
with SS I always stick to 5th @ 35-40mph.. Though the car gets heavyyyyyyyyy at that speed in that gear.. Hope you don't need to pull out of lane in a hurry because a drop to third last an eternity (2 Downshifts in SS last like 1.5-2 seconds) in Full D5 is wayyyy faster since it auto downshift to 3rd skipping 4th..
Ya gotta be careful of some of the aftermarket PCV valves, as some of them are more generic and used in several different applications. With the various aftermarket vendors, the quality and sealing fit is compromised somewhat, IMO. If ya choose to save a few bucks on the PCV valve, go for the top quality branded part and also get a new rubber sealing grommet for the valve cover hole. However, the OEM is a better overall choice.
The last time I checked, at least one aftermarket supplier listed the same pcv valve for our cars as well as some F-150s. Calibration is critical to fuel mixture, as well as walking the fine line between causing oil consumption, and oil leaks. Over the years, I've pissed away time chasing down problems that ended up being a pcv problem. Odd pcv trivia: back in the 80's or so ford had a pcv listing for some cars that called for a different valve after 60,000 miles.
Yeah, after checking around for a replacement PCV valve for the TL and trying an aftermarket part, ya begin to understand why both OEM and aftermarket parts have their own unique issues through the various models and years involved. Ha, hah.... and then ya get the used cars which somebody previously jimmy-rigged.
I get around 330-340 on a tank with my regular city/highway commute. I'll get close to 400 on pure highway driving, and closer to 300 if it's been a really bad week for traffic and I spent most of my time in stop and go. That's with 185,000 miles on the clock, spark plugs were changed 85K miles ago, have never cleaned any of the intake stuff or checked the PCV valve, etc. Will do that soon.
^^^ Awesome......almost makes a person lazy or complacent concerning the typical PM stuff.
The car has been good to ya, treat it to new NGK plugs and an OEM pcv valve.
Then, if ya get bored.....clean up the TB intake and EGR passageways to ensure continued enjoyment.
The car has been good to ya, treat it to new NGK plugs and an OEM pcv valve.
Then, if ya get bored.....clean up the TB intake and EGR passageways to ensure continued enjoyment.
I am 45/55 and I average 335 on about 13.5 gallons average fill up or about 25 mpg
when I do my road tripping from MN to MI (that's 711 miles each way) fill up about every 250 miles and when I reach my destination. This allows me to stretch out and avoid buying gas in IL as One does not buy gas in IL compared to WI IN or MI unless you want to pay an average of $.30 cents a gallon more.
fuel economy ranges from 29 in the winter to 32 in the summer time
when I do my road tripping from MN to MI (that's 711 miles each way) fill up about every 250 miles and when I reach my destination. This allows me to stretch out and avoid buying gas in IL as One does not buy gas in IL compared to WI IN or MI unless you want to pay an average of $.30 cents a gallon more.
fuel economy ranges from 29 in the winter to 32 in the summer time
I am 45/55 and I average 335 on about 13.5 gallons average fill up or about 25 mpg
when I do my road tripping from MN to MI (that's 711 miles each way) fill up about every 250 miles and when I reach my destination. This allows me to stretch out and avoid buying gas in IL as One does not buy gas in IL compared to WI IN or MI unless you want to pay an average of $.30 cents a gallon more.
fuel economy ranges from 29 in the winter to 32 in the summer time
when I do my road tripping from MN to MI (that's 711 miles each way) fill up about every 250 miles and when I reach my destination. This allows me to stretch out and avoid buying gas in IL as One does not buy gas in IL compared to WI IN or MI unless you want to pay an average of $.30 cents a gallon more.
fuel economy ranges from 29 in the winter to 32 in the summer time
Cold starts/short trips burn fuel. We have a 4 mi trip to town we run a few times a week and the mileage is terrible, even though it's at a constant 40 mph. Once the engine is warm, mileage increases. The steady state in 5th should be 30 +/- 2 mpg. Maybe a little less these days if you're using the lower carbon reformulated gas that has 10% ethanol.
should be 30??!! hahahahaha maybe its the wide and sticky tires that lower my mpg, or the bogus gas we get here, 30 is a dream
or did you mean operating somewhere near the speed limit?
try driving that slow on Ca freeways, you are a moving roadblock~
seabright: see my post #13 on this thread for what to do for `short drive` cars- very important to get battery fully re-charged and actual- not just indicated- heat in the engine and fluids.
You might want to install a battery tender jr. and keep the car plugged in to the 110volt home/wall power when car is not in use.
That will keep the battery full and ready to go, substantially increasing its lifespan! (guess how I know this- now)
When it naturally drains from sitting and electrics that run when the car is off- then is used to start the car- a big drain on it, alternator doing its thing above 1500 rpm for 15 minutes is needed to recharge batt,
or the battery maintainer at home
Motorcycle riding ziners know about this device or its similar, We get back from a ride and the tender plugs in to a quick connecter. Maintains 13.8 thru the cold dark nights until the next ride- then its vroom vroom starts with no problem
My TL doesn't get driven often- so the quick connect is zip tied to the grill
or did you mean operating somewhere near the speed limit?
try driving that slow on Ca freeways, you are a moving roadblock~
seabright: see my post #13 on this thread for what to do for `short drive` cars- very important to get battery fully re-charged and actual- not just indicated- heat in the engine and fluids.
You might want to install a battery tender jr. and keep the car plugged in to the 110volt home/wall power when car is not in use.
That will keep the battery full and ready to go, substantially increasing its lifespan! (guess how I know this- now)
When it naturally drains from sitting and electrics that run when the car is off- then is used to start the car- a big drain on it, alternator doing its thing above 1500 rpm for 15 minutes is needed to recharge batt,
or the battery maintainer at home
Motorcycle riding ziners know about this device or its similar, We get back from a ride and the tender plugs in to a quick connecter. Maintains 13.8 thru the cold dark nights until the next ride- then its vroom vroom starts with no problem

My TL doesn't get driven often- so the quick connect is zip tied to the grill
what do you weigh? 100 pounds- and have 195/60 tires?
or I need some way overdue maintenance... and diet
or the wife drives the car way more aggressively than I am aware! Comes home from shopping with fresh brake dust on the rims and down 1/4 tank hmmm
or I need some way overdue maintenance... and diet
or the wife drives the car way more aggressively than I am aware! Comes home from shopping with fresh brake dust on the rims and down 1/4 tank hmmm
Some might have posted before but I wanted to know what is the average fuel efficiency that you guys are getting.
I get about 200-240 miles to the tank with a combination of city and little high way speeds (suburban setting). Seems pretty low to me although I dont expect a whooping 25mpg or anything still seems low.
I get about 200-240 miles to the tank with a combination of city and little high way speeds (suburban setting). Seems pretty low to me although I dont expect a whooping 25mpg or anything still seems low.

Worst mileage I ever got was 29 in the winter and the best was 34 in the fall while traveling in the middle of a "car train"
car has stock rims and I am 190. Odo is listed below
The Scubie gets worse mileage, I barely manage EPA out of that one
its a CL?? that explains it- 2 less doors weight to carry around!!
ckd my mpg today after some good freeway runs to dry the fluids and exhaust
Avg 24mpg mixed driving, thats 40mph in town with a stoplight frequently
and 70-80 mph on freeway (all I will admit to- but can usually beat the gps estimate to destination)
ckd my mpg today after some good freeway runs to dry the fluids and exhaust
Avg 24mpg mixed driving, thats 40mph in town with a stoplight frequently
and 70-80 mph on freeway (all I will admit to- but can usually beat the gps estimate to destination)
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