Front Lower Ball Joints

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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 12:03 PM
  #1  
vinbell's Avatar
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From: Maryland
Question Front Lower Ball Joints

Just got my car back from the dealer, new transmission under warranty. I left without paying anything however they had a list for me of things that needed to be done. Front motor mount and front lower ball joints have "excessive play." They wanted 380 for the mount and 600 for ball joint install. I bought the motor mount for less than 100 and plan to install it. I really want to do the ball joints myself but am having trouble finding info on our cars specifically. I purchased two replacement ball joints for like 20 something each.

I know i am going to need a separator tool and a ball joint press. How much of the suspension will I have to take apart in order to replace the lower ball joint on each side? I figure I remove the fork and the lower control arm can have more room to move. Will I have to remove the CV joint from the knuckle to get enough room to remove/press the ball joint?

Thanks for the help.
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 01:58 PM
  #2  
acutee's Avatar
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You might want to try the search, I believe this subject is covered already. It appears to be an moderate task, not hard at all.
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 02:18 PM
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To make it easiest You will have to remove the axle nut, separate the upper and lower ball joints and remove the knuckle to be able to press them out. You should also pick up the upper ball joints and press them i while your at it.
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 02:40 PM
  #4  
vinbell's Avatar
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Thanks Fsttysms1, that makes a lot of sense. The ball joints must be the same part for the uppers and the lowers because I have only seen one type(brand name aside). Now hopefully the press and extensions that i have will fit over these ball joints.
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 03:26 PM
  #5  
acutee's Avatar
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Here is a bit more details for you:

1. Obviously your going to have to jack up the car, but before you do that loosen the lug nuts, otherwise you will lower it again and feel like a tool, because you know better then to try to loosen the lugs with the tire off the ground,

2. Remove Wheel

3. Remove Caliper from knuckle , you will remove the caliper by removing bolts 17 in image 2. You may have to give it a little tug, but it will slide off the disc.

4. Next you must remove the rotor from the knuckle. You will do this by removing screws the hub. This will alow you to seperate the disc from the hub. If you cant pull it off, try hitting the backside with a deadblow hammer, or rubber mallet, where the caliper was because there is no dust shield there.

5. Once the rotor is removed, your going to have to remove the axle nut . You will definitely need the impact gun for this. I tried using a freaking breaker bar that was longer then I am tall, and it didn't work.

6. Now you have to remove the cotter pin from the upper control arm, the cotter pin for the lower control arm, but youll have to remove the cotterpin for the tie rod end. You should mark the tie rod end where the threads are, in case it decides to rotate which would mess up your alignment.

7. Now remove the Nuts from the same locations you removed the cotter pins from, using a 17mm socket or wrench.

8. Before you remove the knuckle from the control arms and tie rod end, now would be a good time to disconnect the ABS sensor line . You will do this by removing bolts from the knuckle using the 10mm socket and ratchet. When removing the sensor from the knuckle be careful not to break or damage it, it may cause problems with your ABS, just pull it straight out and set the wire and sensor on top of the upper control arm.

9. now you will remove the upper control arm, lower control arm, and tie rod end from the knuckle using the tie rod end puller/seperator. This will be easily accomplished for the tie rod end, and for the upper control arm, but for some reason the lower control arm like to get stuck. If this occurs, beat the shit out of the lower control arm where it attatches to the knuckle with a hammer. This will help loosen it and with the aid of the tie rod end puller/seperator it will come out.

10. Now that this is done, you can pull the knuckle out, by lifting the ball joint out of the lower control arm then pull towards you to remove it from the axle. Hard part complete.
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 06:46 PM
  #6  
MegaKillTron's Avatar
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From: Pearland, TX
Damn dude, 380 for the mount? I think the most I've paid was $200, parts and labor. They usually just replace my mounts when my car is in for the tranny.

Good write, now I can replace my ball joints since they are going bad.
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Old Jan 30, 2008 | 06:37 PM
  #7  
Iggy's Avatar
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From: Southern N.H.
Originally Posted by acutee
Here is a bit more details for you:

1. Obviously your going to have to jack up the car, but before you do that loosen the lug nuts, otherwise you will lower it again and feel like a tool, because you know better then to try to loosen the lugs with the tire off the ground,

2. Remove Wheel

3. Remove Caliper from knuckle , you will remove the caliper by removing bolts 17 in image 2. You may have to give it a little tug, but it will slide off the disc.

4. Next you must remove the rotor from the knuckle. You will do this by removing screws the hub. This will alow you to seperate the disc from the hub. If you cant pull it off, try hitting the backside with a deadblow hammer, or rubber mallet, where the caliper was because there is no dust shield there.

5. Once the rotor is removed, your going to have to remove the axle nut . You will definitely need the impact gun for this. I tried using a freaking breaker bar that was longer then I am tall, and it didn't work.

6. Now you have to remove the cotter pin from the upper control arm, the cotter pin for the lower control arm, but youll have to remove the cotterpin for the tie rod end. You should mark the tie rod end where the threads are, in case it decides to rotate which would mess up your alignment.

7. Now remove the Nuts from the same locations you removed the cotter pins from, using a 17mm socket or wrench.

8. Before you remove the knuckle from the control arms and tie rod end, now would be a good time to disconnect the ABS sensor line . You will do this by removing bolts from the knuckle using the 10mm socket and ratchet. When removing the sensor from the knuckle be careful not to break or damage it, it may cause problems with your ABS, just pull it straight out and set the wire and sensor on top of the upper control arm.

9. now you will remove the upper control arm, lower control arm, and tie rod end from the knuckle using the tie rod end puller/seperator. This will be easily accomplished for the tie rod end, and for the upper control arm, but for some reason the lower control arm like to get stuck. If this occurs, beat the shit out of the lower control arm where it attatches to the knuckle with a hammer. This will help loosen it and with the aid of the tie rod end puller/seperator it will come out.

10. Now that this is done, you can pull the knuckle out, by lifting the ball joint out of the lower control arm then pull towards you to remove it from the axle. Hard part complete.
A little caution about the ABS sensors.

I just did my lowers last week and found that the sensors were stuck due to surface rust building up around them. When you try to pull the sensor from the knuckle be VERY gentle. If if does not come loose with hand pressure, wait to get the knuckle off and tap it out from the inside with a 13mm socket. My first one broke when I tried to pull it free with a set of pliars..............a 45$ mistake.

As for the axle nut, I had no problem with a 5' breaker bar. Just remove the center cap from the wheel(rim) and loosen them slightly with the car on the ground.
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