fsttyms1

I dont like taking my car any where. Only place i bring my car is to the alignment shop, because that is simply something you cant do without the equipment. I can do every thing else. The dealer would have charged me well over 100 dollars to find out what the issue was. I did it for free.

NighthawkBlack

So can the tie rods on the power steering be changed or is the play from the rack itself?

I had a clunking sound in coming from the rear once and it turned out to be that dumbell looking part as the picture he posted That link but in the rear passenger side.

salmanzAC

I had a clunking problem a month back, i would hear this annoying clunking noise during regular driving even if it wasnt a bump ... sound also came when i was turning...
mechanic replaced the links ... ( forget to ask him to elaborate) but he replaced the links underneath , and the car runs smooth and quiet as ever

fsttyms1

Yes the tierod ends can be replaced. If there is play in them its probably from them (especially if you can twist them like you claim)
That dumbell looking thing is the endlink

NighthawkBlack

Where can you buy the tierod ends? On the Acura parts websites I dont see them seperately.

jproy

before changing the part, how did you decide it was the tierod ends? Mine are fine and tight from what I can tell but I am thinking this has something to do with the sway endlinks or sway bar. Possibly the upper arm hitting the fender well from bing dropped? I still dont know.

fsttyms1

Look under PS Gearbox. (11 13)

fsttyms1

If your having clunking it may be the endlinks. Mine made the noise when you yanked the swaybar with the weight on the car. Its not the arm hitting the fender from being lowered. If it was hitting that you would have other problems

jproy

I guess I need to get some ramps and check that out. Its driving me nuts.

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

i doubt mine is the rack, cause it clunks when i turn too.
im thinking mine is now endlinks or tierod ends.
i know its not the springs cause i changed out the springs for new ones.
its not the ball joints since they still look good and arent leaking.
as for the shocks, they dont leak but they do take a few seconds to rebound but this would be my second guess.

fsttyms1

Just because your balljoints look good doesnt mean they arent bad. You cant see a bad ball joint, and they really dont "leak" they can have a torn boot and grease coming out, but not leaking. ONLY way to know is to lift the car and apply pressure to them and yank and pry on them to see if there is movement.
Shocks, same thing. They dont have to be leaking to be bad. If they are original id bet they are probably past their life.

bibledriver

Since this has become a general Q&A thread on driveability noises, I have one to throw in:

I have a strange noise that seems to happen, unrelated to speed, at a specific compression on the suspension noticed under braking (seems like left front). So, when I am installing my RT cat the other day, I notice that there is seemingly seepage from the LF strut. The question is, can a strut that is, as you said, past its life and leaking make a buzzing sound under braking due to loss of the hydraulic cushioning?

fsttyms1

it may be the result of it thats causing other things to make the noise. Ive never heard a shock make a buzzing noise but i wouldnt be amazed if it was.

I think alot of people need to realize these cars are getting old now. Even with low miles age is starting to take its toll on a lot of parts. And many of these parts should be starting to be replaced soon for many.

bibledriver

Dude, i totally understand. I am just now starting to realize it. I have plans of H&R sport and Tokica's, but still wavering between the blues and the adjustable ones. Actually need to check my ball joints really well, but know that my tie rod ends seem to be good. Suppose the old creaky bones are starting to ache!

Thanks for your help.

Oh, do you know whether there would be a good advantage (aside from adjustability) to the adjustables. I haven't heard any complaints on the blues.

fsttyms1

Honestly with the miles we are all starting to get replacing the ball joints regardless isnt a bad idea. I prefer replacing the whole arm (upper and lower) due to getting new bushings with them as well. End links are another good one to replace with age. (as ive found out)

The blues are nice. Only thing nice about the adjustable ones is just that, being able to fine tune it. If your going to spend the money on adjustable ones i would go with the pricier koni yellows.

bibledriver

Thanks man. I will look into those. I also see browsing acuraoemparts in my future . . .

fsttyms1

Another nice thing about the yellows is they have an reversible perch for the spring to raise or lower slightly more

Oh and look here for control arms
http://www.macautoparts.net/Catalog....ategoryid=5900

bibledriver

Is that where you bought yours? You are pleased with them, I assume?

fsttyms1

yes. and yes

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

my autoshop teacher helped me try to solve the problem by using a large pry bar and applying pressure to the joints on the lift. no noise came from them and no budge.
not sure if these shocks are original but they are OEM so they might be. shocks would be what I replace after i inspect the endlinks and tierod ends. its just that i doubt the shocks are making the clunking/creaking noise.

Gfaze

You may have worn control arm bushings. It could also be your sway bar bushings and/or links are worn out too. I'm thinking the clunk I have on my car is the same as Kris's car, the sway bar links. I already ordered them to install ASAP. That clunk drives me nuts!

Kris, are the sway bar links load bearing at all? Or can I just unbolt them, put the new ones in and be done with it? I don't know if I should drive the car up on ramps or lift it with a floor jack. I'm thinking about doing the sway bar to frame bushings too since I'm gonna be in there anyways.

fsttyms1

jack the car up and install them. Some say to loosen the bolts and retighten them with the wheels on the ground. (you can do it with the wheel turned all the way one way. Or if you have 2 jacks place one under each lower arm with the wheels off and lift till the car starts lifting off the jack stands. that will place them close to normal ride height to tighten down.

Gfaze

Thanks for the info! Now just waiting on the parts...

Gfaze

I finally got a chance to replace the sway bar links today. Since I had to change the oil today, I figured I might as well change the links too. Finally!! No more clunking! The right side link had a lot of play while the driver's side didn't have very much. I changed it anyway just to be on the safe side. I was going to use the OEM links but then I ran across the Moog replacements. Much beefier and I know they are quality parts.

01tl4tl

DIY coming???

mdavisii

End links are sometimes very hard to diagnose for this very reason. I've had this exact same scenario about a couple years ago, for about 6 months total! Nobody could figure out the noise (not even the dealer), as the endlinks didn't exhibit any signs of major wear. Finally I couldn't take it anymore, and went ahead and replaced the darn things. $40 and 30 minutes was all it took. Needlesstosay, haven't had further issues with the endlinks!

QUOTE=fsttyms1]Well i figured it out. I went in for an alignment today after putting in a new rack (well used cause mine had play in it) and while it was on the rack i was able to get under the car and play. With the car level and normal pressure on every thing it is the end links. When its jacked up they are tight as can be, and i could never duplicate the noise or find any play in them, But on the rack and weight on the suspension and things level i was able to get the noise out of them.


Oh and alignment specs no camber kit H&R sport drop are as follows.

Front
toe 0.0, -0.7 camber both sides

Rear
toe 0.1, -1.1 camber and -1.2 (what i would want to run even if i had a camber kit) <- no uneven wear from it.[/QUOTE]

Gfaze

Not difficult really. I changed mine while I had the car on ramps for an oil change. Just loosen/remove the lock nuts, remove old one, install new one, tighten back up to factory specs, you're done!

mdavisii

Yep it took me about 30 minutes for both sides, and if memory serves me correctly I didn't even have to jack up the car!

Gfaze

You must be pretty damn skinny!

mdavisii

Yeah I have been told that at times, LOL.

jeffrop

I had an annoying clunking noise coming from the right front of my TL(150k) and finally figured out what it was by jacking up the right front so the tire was off the ground, then put the jack under the lower control arm with slight pressure.

Then I grabbed the wheel and tried pulling/pushing on it to recreate the "clunk". Turns out it was the upper control arm bushing rattling away. I found one for an accord on ebay for around $20-30 new.

Problem solved!

jeffrop

Just to clarify on my post above: I replaced the entire control arm assy, which I purchased on ebay for around $30.00

rob-2

I've been working on this. I replaced the sway bar bushings and the tie rod end links. The nose is greatly reduced and the front end is TIGHT like new.

Yet, still on the crisp, sharp bumps I get the clunk.

nsx04

i guess mine must be worn out shocks as it makes clunking noise over bumps. and this started after i switched out the stock shock and springs and installed coilovers. Do you guys still think it could be the endlinks? I know what a blown shock behaves, but when i push the car to test the shocks, it doesn't seem like it's blown, as it bounces back up pretty quickly and it doesn't make multiple up and down movements. push it once and it'll bounce back up and that's it. Any suggestions?

Gfaze

Get under your car (safely supported of course) and grab the links. Do they flop around easily? They're most likely shot. Mine was loose on the passenger side, it moved very easily. The driver's side wasn't as bad, it was still kinda tight but it was on it's way out. I changed both of them and now my car feels much better, the clunking is gone and it does feel more solid up front.

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

OK guys, i need some help identifying this part. Mods please feel free to chime in. It the part thats covered in white lithium grease. Its how I found out what made the creaking sound.

rob-2

The lower bar is your sway bar, is that what you're talking about?

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

yes, i know that is my front sway bar. but i need to know what the bushing or cushion looking thing thats covered in white lithium grease is.

Luke7

My front pass. tire was wearing bad when I switched to Yoko's. I asked around about who did good alignments. The car's steering was not real tight. The alignment guy found a bad outer front tie rod on my steering rack. Replaced em both and now=no wear. OH=The Acura garage didn't find the problem. I took it back 4 times and they said = "Nothing is wrong." The alignment guy at the Acura Garage was a jerk to me, telling me nothing was wrong with the car. If you jacked up the front of the car and tapped the front passenger wheel you could hear and feel the play in the tie rod. Was about $200 to replace em both.

fsttyms1

aznboi2424 Hard to tell from the pic and if its what your asking but thats part of the subframe.