bruistopher

I was looking under the hood and was curious where all the engine mounts were, i only found 3 so far and here they are:

side engine mount near the power steering pump


front engine mount (front of the car near radiator)


rear engine mount (near the firewall at the rear of the engine)


i can see that my front and rear are vacuum controlled because i see little lines going to them.

i see 3 mounts but where is the transmission mount and the other mount. i was told there were 5 mounts total, so where are the other 2?

i know i need to change my mounts out because i feel a lot of activity in the cabin which i shouldn't be feeling. so i am going to replace them but i need to know where the other two are.

And are they easy to replace yourself at home? or do i need a shop to do them at?

also while i was looking under the hood i saw two solenoids near the transmission fluid dipstick:

(i circled them in red. so i suppose those are the shift solenoids and it has a screen which you can clean optional, right?)

Thanks in advance for the help

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

the trans mounts are on the trans to sub frame. small little rubber blocks. one towards the front and one towards teh rear of the trans.

front and side are easy. the rear is a pain to get to.unless u have a nice lift.

bruistopher

well that basically answers my question then. the last two mounts were 2 transmission mounts. 1 for the front and 1 for the rear of the tranny.

so there are:

1 side engine mount
1 front engine mount (vacuum controlled)
1 rear engine mount (vacuum controlled)
1 front tranny mount
1 rear tranny mount

now all it takes is for me to visually see them and i believe the only way to see the 2 tranny mounts is to use a auto shop lift and i have those at my college auto shop so that works perfectly!

thanks dude

so i assume those mounts are on http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/home.jsp

i will check them out. i got my 105k service coming up and prepared for it. i'm not sure whether i should go to honda or acura.

all i know i need to get changed on the 105k service is:

timing belt
water pump
tensioner
idler pully
seals
valve adjustment
coolant flush
power steering fluid flush

and i think that's it because i can do the oil, tranny fluid changes myself.

bruistopher

i just checked acuraoemparts.com



#2- front tranny mount ($30)
#3- rear tranny mount ($15)
#7- side engine mount ($66)

and i got a question regarding the front and rear engine mounts.

i believe the front is #5 so whats the rear number?

my.daily'tl'

#5 for the front and #6 for the rear. Tranny mounts can be seen in the driver side wheel well. The front one near the sheild underneath. Follow the diy for mounts in the diy section. They're all pretty easy except the rear is a little cramped but I found a good "z" pattern exit once you get it loose helped out.

gold2003tl (90)

i had my side and front motor mounts replaced along with my tranny. too bad no one makes an engine damper for our car, it would most likely extend the life of the mounts.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

custom. us 6spd's have engine dampers from teh factory but suck. so i replaced my front one with nrg and need to replace the rear one.

bruistopher

okay so i got the prices all together for all the mounts. it's clear to me now.

#2- front tranny mount ($30)
#3- rear tranny mount ($15)
#5- front engine mount ($76)
#6- rear engine mount ($119)
#7- side engine mount ($66)

trust trying to figure out why the rear engine mount is so expensive!?! i mean wow the tranny mounts are the cheapest and easy to replace and those are probably the ones that are shot on my part because i can feel the tranny when i put the car in reverse.

i will start with the tranny mounts and work my way to the side mount and the front and rear.

i'm still awaiting my 02-03 wheels. can't wait to put those on

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

u can always be creative and poly fill ur broken mounts. thats what im doing in my cl but not bc mine are shot, but bc the power and torque will rip them in half when i done with the car. u can choose diff durometers of poly

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

http://www.mcmaster.com/#8644K24
60A is just a bit stiffer than stock, but a whole lot better.

fsttyms1

You feeling the car going into gear is most likely the Front mount. The trans mounts rarely fail. Most common are the front and side.

DaveS221

iTrader: (1)

had a trans mount fail a month or two ago. first time tho. held up for 160k miles... not too shabby.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

, i seen them go before, normally they are not noticed though, cause they are hard to see (he has an auto btw), but normally the rubber seperates from one of the plates



also to xlost, found out why i felt vibrations on my car, side mount had gone bad (the rubber tears at the bottom, very easy to see when someones else is revving the engine with it in gear, and having the brakes fuilly applied), so the engine was moving alot

fsttyms1

I didnt say they didnt, but compared to the front and side they rarely do go. I had 220k on the trans mounts, but went thru 3-4 fronts

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

seen them go before at 120k, but it was on an Odyssey though, and even then it was broken again like 40k later (was originally replaced at 120k)

Luke7

I replaced the front and Pass. side mount. Very easy to do. The don't think the front mount is $30. It's more like $70-90. What a difference! after changing them. The rear and Tranny mounts were ok. If I remember right it was about $140.00 for both front and side mounts.

01tl4tl

if your front mount is vac boosted its NOT 30 bucks- its closer to 100 same as the rear.
ON gen2 it boost mount stiffness/strength with vac pressure change on full throttle-

gen3 went oppposite and it smooths at idle on vac boost mounts

In MOST cases the front mount breaks somewhere around 50kmiles and goes unnoticed- then the pass side takes more load and it breaks, finally the trans fails about that time -- tech notices oil from front mount and advises replacement

rare is the car that needs all 5,, and not starting with trans- start with the KNOWN failure points

01tl4tl

xlost- make sure to get the idler/roller pullies for timing belt- anything that moves and you expect to last another 100kmiles do now
the coolant flush is part of the 105 as they remove coolant to get pump off

Often wise to replace radiator hoses now and thermostat for good measure- DIY projects

may as well do ac pulley while in there and its belt
cam seals are usually ok

valve adjust is a very good idea.. always a few are off spec
adjustment can be even better if you seafoam the oil- drive- then change, before the service
That will leave the surfaces clean and ready for precise adjustment

ps flush is DIY- very easy, do it twice to rid system of crud- starting fresh for the next 100

bruistopher

okay well i already knew the front engine mount was expensive. it was $76 according to acuraoemparts.com and the $30 you came up with is the front tranny mount which i believe is probably good.

so with you saying that if any mounts fail its more than likely the front and the side which will need replacement.

so i will do those sometime when the weather breaks and it warms up.

so basically all the pulley's need to be replaced on the engine and i know the tensioner, timing belt, and water pump need replacement?

valve adjustment is something i want to try on my own. but i might have acura or honda do it. i don't know yet.

but i have been using seafoam a lot lately. i put 1 can in the gas tank on a full tank once and noticed improvement. i just hope it doesn't contaminate the new spark plugs i installed a week ago.

the oil, tranny, coolant, power steering fluid was all going to get changed regardless.

the tranny fluid is what i will do anyway because i think its due and i don't want my clutch packs getting burned or heated up.

01tl4tl

dont overdo seafoam!!
repeat manifold and gas methods after a month then good for a year

Start with a cleaning dose in gas tank- 2 oz per gal of gas - thats 1 16oz can to just under a HALF tank ~8 gallons

`maitenance dose` is 1 oz to 1 gal= 1 can to just under full tank- ok to do every 5000 miles if you want to really stay on top of the always clean program

the gas tank method will NOT foul your new spark plugs or cause any issues!
spark plug probs after manifold vac port use only happens with very very old plugs.. like 100kmiles and no or little afterdrive done..of course stuff gets stuck to them

Do a visual check from under car at front and rear motor mounts- look for oil or dirt trail attached to the oil that leaked out
or a few drops of strange oil on driveway,,unlike any oil I had ever seen used in the operating of the car! knew something was wrong

Do the manual test of standing next to the car and watching for engine movement when revved in drive- with blocks in front/rear of wheels and trusted friend behind the wheel and controls holding brakes tight

01tl4tl

vac boosted mounts that are broken also cause a mystery vac leak and slight engine miss, If its bad replace ASAP, the DIY section has instructions

When we say `front motor mount` we mean front of car, not front of engine,
where we call the mount at that end (which is the real `front` of the engine)
the `passenger side mount`
rear mount is the one at firewall end of the system and matches front mount
ie: the 2 big ones do the most work-front/back motion

Hint: Everything is from the seated drivers perspective when ordering parts

front and rear mounts are expensive- retail $100-130, passenger side is the 30-50$ mount

vw2tl

yeah, just found out that my mounts went, there car is going notice, i feel it in the driver side wheel well, since the engine is moving so much. i feel like a clunk when i let off the accelerator.
How do i check which mounts are the bad ones??? where would i notice leaking. i was thinking of replacing my front and side and tranny ones.

vw2tl

how do people feel about these mounts??? i know some people are against buying from no name companies or ebay or anything like that.
http://www.amazon.com/Honda-Accord-A.../dp/B000PZ8A1Q

VTEC11

I would stick with OEM. There are different part numbers for different years. It's not the same across 99-02. At least for the front one.

rkan121

I just replaced these mounts today actually and they were super easy.My buddy and I got the job done in a hour. i replaced the pass. side mount and the front egine mount and the "clunking" noise is no more!!!!

the pass side mount was $52 and
the front mount was $120 @ autozone

fsttyms1

Were they the hydraulic mounts like the factory?

rkan121

yes its labeled a front mount and very similar to the stock one except my old one was leaking fluid. that one is the easiest one to replace!!

vw2tl

so are all 99-02 mounts hydraulic, well the front and rear??? or are they different by years, i drive an 01, and it has 2 feet of snow on it right now, so im not quite sure which ones i need, maybe someone can tell me by year?? or is that not possible.

fsttyms1

Yes, they are all hydraulicl. Only the 99 has a different mount. The 00-03 are the same (# 50800-S0K-A82) mounts