Engine Block Bolt Stuck
07-29-2018, 03:21 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Engine Block Bolt Stuck
So today I decided to do a coolant change on my 2002 TL Type S... Car has in Prestone coolant but it looked old and my radiator fan was coming on too often.
Anyway I drained the radiator and that went okay... Went to the engine block bleed bolt and can't get it to even budge.... For one it looks striipped and secondly nothing I've tried from ratchets,combination wrenches to gear wrenches it won't move.. Even with WD 40. I can't get a breaker bar in there either..
I'm pissed because I got up from 8 am to do it and itts now 4 20 pm and a 1 hours job has gone the whole day and nothing.
Acura chose the dumbest place to put that $%%%^...
And sugestion on what to do.. I kinda dont wanna mix green aftermarket coolant with OEM... and I'm trying to not have air bubbles either.
Anyway I drained the radiator and that went okay... Went to the engine block bleed bolt and can't get it to even budge.... For one it looks striipped and secondly nothing I've tried from ratchets,combination wrenches to gear wrenches it won't move.. Even with WD 40. I can't get a breaker bar in there either..
I'm pissed because I got up from 8 am to do it and itts now 4 20 pm and a 1 hours job has gone the whole day and nothing.
Acura chose the dumbest place to put that $%%%^...
And sugestion on what to do.. I kinda dont wanna mix green aftermarket coolant with OEM... and I'm trying to not have air bubbles either.
07-29-2018, 04:03 PM
#2
Welcome to AZine, Chiller2002TL.
No need to mess with the drain bolt on the back of the engine block. Just drain the radiator, fill it up with distilled water, and repeat about 3 more times. Then remove as much water as you can, and refill with coolant.
Also, accessing the drain bolt isn't particularly difficult. You just need a long handle wrench. If your smaller bolt is stripped, you can loosen with the bigger size to remove the whole bolt.
No need to mess with the drain bolt on the back of the engine block. Just drain the radiator, fill it up with distilled water, and repeat about 3 more times. Then remove as much water as you can, and refill with coolant.
Also, accessing the drain bolt isn't particularly difficult. You just need a long handle wrench. If your smaller bolt is stripped, you can loosen with the bigger size to remove the whole bolt.
07-29-2018, 04:18 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
When you say remove as much water as I can. What exactly do you mean? I only as because isn't just draning the radiator 4 times gonna leave some water in the system?
Also .. Should I run my engine and heater with the distilled water?
Also .. Should I run my engine and heater with the distilled water?
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Chiller2002TL (07-29-2018)
07-29-2018, 07:43 PM
#5
So today I decided to do a coolant change on my 2002 TL Type S... Car has in Prestone coolant but it looked old and my radiator fan was coming on too often.
Anyway I drained the radiator and that went okay... Went to the engine block bleed bolt and can't get it to even budge.... For one it looks striipped and secondly nothing I've tried from ratchets,combination wrenches to gear wrenches it won't move.. Even with WD 40. I can't get a breaker bar in there either..
I'm pissed because I got up from 8 am to do it and itts now 4 20 pm and a 1 hours job has gone the whole day and nothing.
Acura chose the dumbest place to put that $%%%^...
And sugestion on what to do.. I kinda dont wanna mix green aftermarket coolant with OEM... and I'm trying to not have air bubbles either.
Anyway I drained the radiator and that went okay... Went to the engine block bleed bolt and can't get it to even budge.... For one it looks striipped and secondly nothing I've tried from ratchets,combination wrenches to gear wrenches it won't move.. Even with WD 40. I can't get a breaker bar in there either..
I'm pissed because I got up from 8 am to do it and itts now 4 20 pm and a 1 hours job has gone the whole day and nothing.
Acura chose the dumbest place to put that $%%%^...
And sugestion on what to do.. I kinda dont wanna mix green aftermarket coolant with OEM... and I'm trying to not have air bubbles either.
Karnax is right just drain as much as you can from the rad and hoses. I used a flushing chemical and deionized water with the heat of full to flush any junk out. Then drain as much water out and keep cycling with coolant until you get as close to 50/50 mix as possible. A refractometer helps a lot.
07-30-2018, 06:04 AM
#6
Burning Brakes
I encountered the same problem, when trying to remove the engine block drain bolt. I didn't find it that difficult to access, but it was very, very tight. After several attempts, including a previous day soak, with PB Blaster, it still wouldn't budge. Ended up, forgoing the block drain, and just flushed the system with distilled water, 3X, and called it a day! Never heard of a ( REFRACTOMETER ). Thanks, Darksyne. Interesting suggestion.
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