Egr diy
#1
Egr diy
I have a 99 TL with 183,000 miles that didn't have the EGR recall done.I have never had the intake off (not that it will be hard to do).I actually did an EGR delete on my other vehicle. I'm not getting any codes so I was wondering if I should even do it.What are the benefits for doing this cleaning? Better gas mileage? Smoother running through the RPMs?Can someone fill me in.
Thanks
Thanks
#2
its really important-
the recall just cleaned the port and installed a sleeve in the rough hole, the smoother passage was supposed to be less likely to clog--so fast~
In fact, 75kmiles on the later years is a good idea, plenty bad then and they have 6 egr ports into the cylinders
While your 99 has only 1 port! its going to clog faster
remove the intake manifold, with carb cleaner,,be able to run a wire rod thru the length of the manifold egr passage, not just ~poke the port~ must be clear all the way thru!
Lube egr valve arm
service the TB and access idle control-IACV on its bottem,
lube throttle cables internally and the return springs on TB assembly
It will run smoother and perform better when its not pumping exhaust gas to a system thats restricting its passage into the combustion for escape path
the egr valve is open at all time except idle speed and full throttle,,where its operation would cause running problems
so yeah- making sure it can work is important
Dont start screwing with removing smog parts unless its your track car
the recall just cleaned the port and installed a sleeve in the rough hole, the smoother passage was supposed to be less likely to clog--so fast~
In fact, 75kmiles on the later years is a good idea, plenty bad then and they have 6 egr ports into the cylinders
While your 99 has only 1 port! its going to clog faster
remove the intake manifold, with carb cleaner,,be able to run a wire rod thru the length of the manifold egr passage, not just ~poke the port~ must be clear all the way thru!
Lube egr valve arm
service the TB and access idle control-IACV on its bottem,
lube throttle cables internally and the return springs on TB assembly
It will run smoother and perform better when its not pumping exhaust gas to a system thats restricting its passage into the combustion for escape path
the egr valve is open at all time except idle speed and full throttle,,where its operation would cause running problems
so yeah- making sure it can work is important
Dont start screwing with removing smog parts unless its your track car
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 09-08-2011 at 09:31 PM.
#3
for fun remove the PCV valve over rear valve cover
shake it- clogged movement inside? clean w/carb cleaner or buy new for less than 10 dollars
go ahead...splurge!
its been on there a while and serves another vital function- venting crankcase pressure back into the intake,
Clogged pcv can force oil out the rear or front main seal !!
shake it- clogged movement inside? clean w/carb cleaner or buy new for less than 10 dollars
go ahead...splurge!
its been on there a while and serves another vital function- venting crankcase pressure back into the intake,
Clogged pcv can force oil out the rear or front main seal !!
#4
for fun remove the PCV valve over rear valve cover
shake it- clogged movement inside? clean w/carb cleaner or buy new for less than 10 dollars
go ahead...splurge!
its been on there a while and serves another vital function- venting crankcase pressure back into the intake,
Clogged pcv can force oil out the rear or front main seal !!
shake it- clogged movement inside? clean w/carb cleaner or buy new for less than 10 dollars
go ahead...splurge!
its been on there a while and serves another vital function- venting crankcase pressure back into the intake,
Clogged pcv can force oil out the rear or front main seal !!
#6
Here's a great fairly recent DIY video on how to clean '99 TL egr
(he knows his shit about honda/acura)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRp6RWZ1egM
(he knows his shit about honda/acura)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRp6RWZ1egM
The following users liked this post:
01tl4tl (09-10-2011)
#7
Note: he removed the torque on the main manifold bolts starting at one end and going to the other
Thats NOT protocal on protecting aluminum parts!!
Start in the middle and work opposite sides in an expanding X to the ends
tighten same way, in steps- finger tight, hand tight and torque set 16 foot pounds
Its really important on this part- loose bolts =bad running- tight bolts break off head!
Also the use of screwdriver poking around the aluminum surface- where any gouges will result in a leak, often vacuum leak is bad practice
Some carb cleaner or Deep Creep/Seafoam aerosol before during and after will loosen the material, then poke gently
thats a 99 shown with its 1 egr port
the rest of us have 6 ports to clean, and must run a rod thru the length of the manifold.
After seeing whats in there on vid you can understand why the passageway is as important as the point of exit for the exhaust gasses
Thats NOT protocal on protecting aluminum parts!!
Start in the middle and work opposite sides in an expanding X to the ends
tighten same way, in steps- finger tight, hand tight and torque set 16 foot pounds
Its really important on this part- loose bolts =bad running- tight bolts break off head!
Also the use of screwdriver poking around the aluminum surface- where any gouges will result in a leak, often vacuum leak is bad practice
Some carb cleaner or Deep Creep/Seafoam aerosol before during and after will loosen the material, then poke gently
thats a 99 shown with its 1 egr port
the rest of us have 6 ports to clean, and must run a rod thru the length of the manifold.
After seeing whats in there on vid you can understand why the passageway is as important as the point of exit for the exhaust gasses
The following 2 users liked this post by 01tl4tl:
03tl-s04mdx (09-10-2011),
webmastir (09-11-2011)
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#9
i did check the DIY and don't think i seen anything about using a rod to push thru and is there a way to clean up the carbon that got pushed thru. I'm new here and new to Acura so this car is driving me crazy right now any help would be appreciated
#10
the 99 diy lacks this part of the job--we need a fresh pic and description for later years
You remove the entire intake manifold and the Throttle Body (in order to service it while doing the job) from the engine and place on your workbench-
or ground covered with blanket and newspaper--
must remember to protect the mating surfaces all the time!!
Now you poke thru each of the 6 ports, then the 2 directly under the actual egr valve
From those 2 to the other end of the manifold is a passageway to clean- when you see it you will understand
carb cleaner or deep creep/seafoam will loosen the carbon, and wire coat hanger pushes it thru
carb cleaner to rinse out residue- or go all out and clean the intake runners etc,,really wash the manifold in every part and opening- then rinse with water, MUST DRY till zero moisture left inside!!
if our diy lacks info ck the tube
lube the operating arm of the egr valve with a wd type product and make sure it moves smoothly
You remove the entire intake manifold and the Throttle Body (in order to service it while doing the job) from the engine and place on your workbench-
or ground covered with blanket and newspaper--
must remember to protect the mating surfaces all the time!!
Now you poke thru each of the 6 ports, then the 2 directly under the actual egr valve
From those 2 to the other end of the manifold is a passageway to clean- when you see it you will understand
carb cleaner or deep creep/seafoam will loosen the carbon, and wire coat hanger pushes it thru
carb cleaner to rinse out residue- or go all out and clean the intake runners etc,,really wash the manifold in every part and opening- then rinse with water, MUST DRY till zero moisture left inside!!
if our diy lacks info ck the tube
lube the operating arm of the egr valve with a wd type product and make sure it moves smoothly
The following users liked this post:
brnm8brn (09-12-2011)
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