Drain plug?
#1
Racer
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Drain plug?
Oil change is coming up and i keep forgetting to ask, for some reason my drain plug is different than the one i ordered. the one on there now is a two bolt setup, one bigger bolt looks like the same size as oem but it has another bolt that goes directly into it that also loosens. last time i tried the bolt from advance didnt seem to wanna go in all the way so didnt try to hard as to avoid messing the threads up. any ideas??? it also leaks a little with that type of bolt as apparently doesnt seal well.
#3
Senior Moderator
Something like this?
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justnspace (02-18-2014)
#6
Mr.Helpful Diagram
Have you looked at this method ?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaNls0uuOUs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaNls0uuOUs
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#8
Racer
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So tried the longer bolt and right away was getting some resistance from the bolt so kept going for a little and than pulled back. Something told me to just try the new oem drain bolt and when I did it went in about 3/4 and than had some resistance. was able to tighten all the way with new washer saw a little drop after running for a little bit, so tightened a little more as I was scared to strip it previously. Not sure why the heck they had that other stupid drain plug in there if it still tightens.
Changed to Mobil 5w/30 Full Synthetic while I was at it with an AcDelco filter.
Changed to Mobil 5w/30 Full Synthetic while I was at it with an AcDelco filter.
#9
Safety Car
When you switched to synthetic did you put seafoam in the crankcase to remove any residuals left by the conventional oil. The drain plug should go in all the way without having to crank on it. Try an after market one.
#11
Senior Moderator
Someone probably either stripped theirs or thought that one would be easier. You could get a tap (apply grease to it) and on your next oil change chase the threads on the oil pan and see if it allows you to tighten the bolts without being scared. (catch the old oil in a CLEAN pan and use that to pour back thru the engine to flush any tiny bits that may have gotten into the pan.
#12
Racer
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Someone probably either stripped theirs or thought that one would be easier. You could get a tap (apply grease to it) and on your next oil change chase the threads on the oil pan and see if it allows you to tighten the bolts without being scared. (catch the old oil in a CLEAN pan and use that to pour back thru the engine to flush any tiny bits that may have gotten into the pan.
#13
Here is a link explaining the piggyback drain plug that you found. When it was installed, it should have cut some new threads into the pan. As the piggyback is intended to be a fix, it's usually oversized, so a stock M14x1.50 drain plug at this point might not be leakproof.
http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/...lug-Repair.pdf
http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/...lug-Repair.pdf
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3.2TLc (03-09-2014)
#14
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Here is a link explaining the piggyback drain plug that you found. When it was installed, it should have cut some new threads into the pan. As the piggyback is intended to be a fix, it's usually oversized, so a stock M14x1.50 drain plug at this point might not be leakproof.
http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/...lug-Repair.pdf
http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/...lug-Repair.pdf
#15
Chances are that the oil pan's drain plug hole is boogered......!
You can try putting the band-aid teflon tape and washers on, but the only real fix is to retap the threads to accommodate a re-sized drain plug for leakproof sealing.
You can try putting the band-aid teflon tape and washers on, but the only real fix is to retap the threads to accommodate a re-sized drain plug for leakproof sealing.
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