doing my own oil changes..

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Aug 21, 2007 | 12:51 PM
  #241  
^So true, a higher price does not necessarily mean a better product. Sometimes it just means someone is ripping you off.
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Aug 21, 2007 | 02:29 PM
  #242  
higher overhead means higher prices- be it the labor rate or the parts price- someone is paying for that nice showroom and waiting lounge
You didnt think free loaner cars were really free did you>
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Aug 21, 2007 | 02:54 PM
  #243  
I just looked at the statement from the last time I had the dealer change my oil(which may in fact be the last time they ever change it) and they have the filter listed at $7.90, so someone is screwing you and not in the good way...
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Aug 27, 2007 | 02:18 PM
  #244  
I did a oil change on my friends 2005 Accord V6 6sp this weekend. I usually use the rhino ramps. His car is also lowered like mine but he has the Kamanari body kit and it took us 1.5 hours to figure out a way to jack up the car. We went ahead and bought the pro jack. but it still would not slid under the car. After many attempts we got it at a angle and put some Fresh Royal Purple and Mobil 1 Filter.
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Aug 27, 2007 | 02:34 PM
  #245  
I have used original Honda filters since I have been servicing my own vehicles.

15400-P0H-305 FILTER, OIL 1 2000 TL LIST $6.65 YOUR PRICE $5.32

From Sons Acura.
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Sep 4, 2007 | 02:33 PM
  #246  
So I must admit I jumped on the Royal Purple bandwagon. I really dont see that big of a differ. From hangout on bobistheoilguy.com, I think i am going to stick to Valvoline Synpower. I have synpower in our RSX and TSX, and have valvoline maxlife in our suburban.

Anyone else using Valvoline Synpower?
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Sep 4, 2007 | 04:43 PM
  #247  
how much does it cost youll doing it ur self with good ffilter and with good synthetic oil?? my dad puts normal oil but i dont like that crap in my car so i wana switch over.. u can do that rite??
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Sep 4, 2007 | 05:15 PM
  #248  
I spent $28 at Wal-Mart for a 5 quart jug of Mobil 1 Extended Performance and $6 on a filter, you can spend $10-15 on a filter, it's your choice. So, about $35, still cheaper than the dealer and it doesn't take long.
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Sep 4, 2007 | 05:25 PM
  #249  
Quote: I spent $28 at Wal-Mart for a 5 quart jug of Mobil 1 Extended Performance and $6 on a filter, you can spend $10-15 on a filter, it's your choice. So, about $35, still cheaper than the dealer and it doesn't take long.
Your dealer is robbing people. I get my oil changed for $25, and they do a pretty good job at washing my car too. In addtion, how much does it cost to dispose of the used motor oil? I gave up doing my own oil changes...whats the need?
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Sep 4, 2007 | 05:41 PM
  #250  
Read back thru the thread and see horror stories over oil plugs way beyond tight- that crush washer crushes for a reason and seals at the right torque, stripped threads, loose plugs, no oil added and much more have occured at shops

Many of us have loyalty to a brand oil or filter, and prefer our filter contain oil before installation, and not dry start the engine as most oil change places do
Or you want a sample of your oil for sprectrum analysis www.blackstone-labs.com
Easy to add seafoam to crankcase before change at home too

Go to the wash and wax section in Off Topic- the dangers of letting others wash your car go from scratches to rim damage
Get out the claybar and have a good time making your car nicer than its ever looked

Maybe you like to look over the car underneath for damage or wear items
Know that your tire pressure was set correctly
General satisfaction of working on ones car

Anyone else want to chime in?
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Sep 4, 2007 | 05:44 PM
  #251  
Did I remember reading to not switch back to regular oil after going synthetic?

I have 3 coupons for free oil changes at Super Lube but it's just a regular service. I can't seem to get rid of them on eBay.
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Sep 4, 2007 | 05:44 PM
  #252  
California and many states have a free Oil recycling program that all parts stores that sell oil must take used oil (reasonable amount to what you purchased) and the quickie change places also have to accept oil from you- as long as its not cross contaminated with water or any other oils, in a sealed jug- bring it in and they empty it for you!!

so, FREE would be the answer to how much to dispose of the oil
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Sep 4, 2007 | 05:46 PM
  #253  
you can go back and forth all you like- the engine wont care
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Sep 4, 2007 | 05:48 PM
  #254  
sweet i won't have to worry about oil changes for another 9K miles.

i'm gonna do these every 3K b/c of the dino oil.
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Sep 4, 2007 | 05:49 PM
  #255  
Even the dino will go well over 3k but its free so ....
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Sep 4, 2007 | 08:31 PM
  #256  
Shit if its free do it ever 1k, That will defiently clean your engine out
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Sep 4, 2007 | 08:45 PM
  #257  
Probably won't take it that extreme just do it every 2500-3K, then back to synthetic
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Oct 17, 2007 | 02:40 AM
  #258  
well im going to change my oil myself for the first time tomrow, 5w30 penz plat with mobile 1 filter. can i just pick up a new drainplug washer at autozone?
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Oct 17, 2007 | 09:18 AM
  #259  
I got the washer from advance auto, but I am pretty sure Autozone has it to.
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Oct 17, 2007 | 09:34 AM
  #260  
Quote: well im going to change my oil myself for the first time tomrow, 5w30 penz plat with mobile 1 filter. can i just pick up a new drainplug washer at autozone?
Still have the original one on the TL-P motor . Never leaked (when torqued properly) Im going to see how long i can use the one on the new type-s motor You can get them at any auto parts stores
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Oct 17, 2007 | 04:11 PM
  #261  
I replaced the entire drain plug-came with new washer ~$2.50
That way I had one I knew that was never over-torqued
If your car ever saw a quick change place- replace the entire plug and washer
Spec is 29 foot pounds
With the leverage they get standing under the car- way past that--
is what you end up with!
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Nov 3, 2007 | 08:05 AM
  #262  
Quote: And please tell me you dont follow the 3k oilchange BS as well??
Are people actually doing this? That's NUTS.
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Nov 3, 2007 | 11:03 AM
  #263  
some old schoolers or uneducated youth follow the 3k method

The rest of us vary between 5000-7500, when the service minder light comes on
and 10k+ for some synthetic users with lab analysis of condition part way thru useage
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Nov 3, 2007 | 09:56 PM
  #264  
I'm always did my truck every 5000 miles.
Truck has 150K and doesn't have any problem so far (knock on the wood).
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Nov 7, 2007 | 12:50 PM
  #265  
I guess I'm gonna go do me my oil change soon also. Mobile 1 it is, even though my buddy suggested me Castro. I currently have Mobile 1 in my car now and it seems fine to me
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Nov 7, 2007 | 02:10 PM
  #266  
Make sure to get the Mobil1 High Mileage FULLY synthetic- thats the old formula mobil1 that is preferred
grab a can of seafoam and do treatment-
or some basic $2 engine oil cleaner, run it 5 minutes then do the oil change
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Nov 7, 2007 | 10:14 PM
  #267  
Quote: I guess I'm gonna go do me my oil change soon also. Mobile 1 it is, even though my buddy suggested me Castro. I currently have Mobile 1 in my car now and it seems fine to me
I think Mobile 1 is the best.
I use it on my camaro and my hayabusa.
But I use castrol on my wife tl and my truck. (cheaper)
Castrol is pretty good oil for the money.
Cuz my truck has 150K (hard mileage/pulling the trailer for my camaro) and still runs good. (knock on the woods)
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Jan 22, 2008 | 02:30 PM
  #268  
Dude whatever you do, DO NOT USE THE PURALATOR OIL FILTER!!!... I used to work at advance auto parts and thats the cheapest filter they have in stock ... I would go with the K&N... It's a little bit more expensive but you get what you pay for...
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Jan 22, 2008 | 03:02 PM
  #269  
I recommend the Fumoto oil plug valve. It makes draining the oil simple.
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Jan 22, 2008 | 03:55 PM
  #270  
99blakac where do u live in tampa
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Jan 24, 2008 | 10:20 AM
  #271  
anyone using a Bosch filter?
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Jan 24, 2008 | 10:30 AM
  #272  
Quote: I replaced the entire drain plug-came with new washer ~$2.50
That way I had one I knew that was never over-torqued
If your car ever saw a quick change place- replace the entire plug and washer
Spec is 29 foot pounds
With the leverage they get standing under the car- way past that--
is what you end up with!
Did you just buy a new drain plug w/washer from the dealership? Or from a parts store?
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Jan 24, 2008 | 10:32 AM
  #273  
it took me SO LONG to get that freakign oil plug off the first time...just work it man...
more torque = get buffer and use a longer handle
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Jan 24, 2008 | 10:45 AM
  #274  
Quote: I recommend the Fumoto oil plug valve. It makes draining the oil simple.


The Fumoto drain valve is a great product. I installed one on my TL last year and it really makes draining easy. As an added bonus, I no longer have to fish the drain plug out of the oil filled drain pan.
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Jan 24, 2008 | 10:48 AM
  #275  
Your first time? an oil change virgin!!!- wow- if only we had only known we would have gotten you a present of a 3 foot breaker bar.
Most oil changes places tighten the plug way past spec and its a real pain to remove.

AMG:
I bought the entire plug and washer unit in 1 bag at zone.
Their washer was mystery plastic, while the CORRECT washer from dealer is copper, so grab a few while you drop by acura too.
When I next changed my oil- the washer had a very odd and disconcerting melt? hole in it, not at the edge where it would leak, but enough to merit another trip for a copper washer.
Once the plug has been overtorqued- and you can be certain it has every time until YOU do it, it stresses the metal= no good anymore
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Jan 24, 2008 | 10:51 AM
  #276  
They make plastic jugs for oil draining, self contained- no spills,
and no way for the plug to fall in.

and often FREE at State recycling places. Our local oil and hazmat dropoff will give you 1 when you bring in anything.
Its the beginning of the year when everyones stash comes in- make a call

Now I keep a spare plug with washer all ready to go. Let the hot one lay in the catch can and install a nice clean cold one
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Jan 24, 2008 | 11:12 AM
  #277  
Quote: Your first time? an oil change virgin!!!- wow- if only we had only known we would have gotten you a present of a 3 foot breaker bar.
Most oil changes places tighten the plug way past spec and its a real pain to remove.

AMG:
I bought the entire plug and washer unit in 1 bag at zone.
Their washer was mystery plastic, while the CORRECT washer from dealer is copper, so grab a few while you drop by acura too.
When I next changed my oil- the washer had a very odd and disconcerting melt? hole in it, not at the edge where it would leak, but enough to merit another trip for a copper washer.
Once the plug has been overtorqued- and you can be certain it has every time until YOU do it, it stresses the metal= no good anymore
I kinda wish i had taken my original plug and washer and put it into the new motor when i did the swap. Id like to see how long i could have used it before it ever leaked. Im betting on for the life of the car due to proper torquing for over 210k...
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Jan 24, 2008 | 11:30 AM
  #278  
With proper torque- there is no reason for it to suffer any wear issue, so the only problem would be if you grabbed it with vise grips and trashed the head

While we have different taste in light colors, I am willing to believe you have always done perfect 29 lbs- torque wrench or not

200k miles, that was what? 15 oil changes for you
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Jan 24, 2008 | 12:20 PM
  #279  
Something like that.
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Jan 25, 2008 | 09:54 AM
  #280  
How many liters of oil do you guys use on an oil change??
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