I do a lot of highway driving, and get aggressive on braking at high speeds. I go thru rotors like crazy. I want to spend some money and get away from Duralast rotors, they give me about 7K miles before they are trashed.

Does anyone have any input on this rotor ? I found the site from a thread posted.

http://www.placeforbrakes.com/produc...r=2003&avail=1


EBC Ultimax Rotors are slotted brake rotors featuring the new EBC Dash design which helps cool brakes and de-gas brakes under load and speed. Coated with Black zinc finish Ultimax sport rotors are complete with bearing cups where fitted as OEM.

Any input would be greatly appreciated .
TF

 

I have them on my car now. Been running them for about 6 months. So far so good.

 

you can do a regular internet search for ebc brakes+2002 acura TL+acurazine.com

anything + acurazine.com will ferret for a 3 letter code unlike our own search

EBC are well respected in the industry, used on cars and bikes, they make brake and clutch parts,

for serious rotors and pads look at www.RacingBrake.com-- thru MrHeelToe on here-
ET-500 pads for the aggresive braker,,many of us using them now and very very happy with one time and repeated high speed slows--while still good in town
reasonable dust for the performance
rotors will last thru 3-4 sets of pads easily.. without needing any resurface

 

Thanks guys !

 

I've been running EBC's Sport dimpled/slotted rotors with EBC RedStuff pads for over a year and they've been great. You can't go wrong with EBC.

 

I run their clutch disc set on my bike~
need to try brake pads and see if better than aftermarket units on there now

I would call ebc rotors and pads for cars a mid range product--not the most expensive and not the absolute best--though certainly fine for most drivers,,way better than stock.

Note dimples and or cross-drilled cause extra pad wear and extra noise-
If it rains a lot where you live- they are the right choice,,
if it doesnt.. then side slots alone are more than enough for potential outgassing issues under repeated hard braking

iirc our megamod runs them on his 00, and does track days with them too

 

note--if you want better braking torque and feel- $150 for 2 1995 honda Legend LS-C (coupe) front dual piston calipers
and SS- Stainless Steel Brake lines $125- those dont swell under pressure of application so pedal feel stays constant thru heat and useage

others with the caliper mod chime in on improvement
Hi Co--havnt seen you here in a while! hows the brakes?

 

am i the only one who first thought "why is he only getting 7k on the duralast rotors?" i was actually about to purchase some of those cheaper ones here pretty soon. i also read in other threads that even the duralast rotors are better than our shitty oem ones.

 

i have EBC black dash for the past 1500 miles. so far so good.

 

only 7 out of duraleast,, from extreme braking effort from speed- without cooling off period of moving cooler air thru the brakes by driving--
that will kill most rotors

even stop and go driving with lots of 45 to stop--then sit sit sit--45 and stop
that will do in your brakes too,,lots of heat and no cooling, plus sitting with them held on--so no heat is escaping...

 

wow. i would've never thought only 7k out of rotors, what a jip. my current crap oem rotors & pads have been fucked for the past 15k....gotten around 80k out of em so far, iirc

 

imagine a smooth braking car with awesome abilities--then go buy yourself some decent brakes!!

Flush the brake fluid!!
everyone needs to do that- best to do once a year,,and now is a good time to start

 

many things cause rotor warp,, including incorrect installation of the wheels
and overtorque or uneven torque on the lug nuts

 

Thanks for all the input ! What would be a better EBC rotor - dimpled or cross drilled ? Is there a performance advantage to having the cross drilled or are they pretty close ?

 

webmastir - I'm assuming traveling at 95 mph and when the radar goes off - jumping on the brakes to get to 70 mph is probably what is causing them to warp within 5000k miles. I'm not an expert, but i would imagine the duralast material can't handle it.

 

What is a good brake fluid to utilize ?

 

any name brand DOT4 spec fluid is fine
some like synthetic,,its cheap either way- less than $5 per qt
get 2 qts
should take 1-1.5 qts to do a really good job and know all old fluid has been pushed thru

note NEVER use 5.0-zero,,it has silicates that are bad for our system.

hardcore wannabe racers ok to use 5.ONE at 15-25 dollars per qt

remember flush/bleed order is special to the TL
LF = driver front then clockwise around the car
LF RF RR LR
if using helper and manual pump hold, and open method--instead of vac method tool,
place small block of 2x4 wood under brake pedal arm, so it only goes 3/4 of the way to floor--keeps it in the normal range of operation and protects master cyl seal

remove block before test drive

see diy for more tips on rags to protect paint around master cyl and procedures

keep flushing long after first clean fluid appears--there is a lot more fluid in the calper that needs to get out still--easily fools some people

 

rotors: plain ol flat face works for most in all street conditions

Side Slots allow room for pad outgassing at extreme temps and pressures from repeated hard brake use--such as at a race track or mountain roads
They allow expanding pad gasses an escape port or path- keeps pads planted on the rotors firmly--that pressure can push them off the rotor in EXTREME cases --not likely in a TL

dimples allow same principle but add a lot of surface area to make noise as rotor does its thing in motion and cause pad wear

cross drilled thru the rotor is for heavy rain and super hard mountain or track day use
In rain they dry off faster and give water a place to escape (if it isnt steam already)

Note!! must buy units designed from the factory to be drilled- not blanks drilled after the fact--there are structuaral integrity issues in play
Also danger of cracks forming at the drill site--happens all the time--stress fracture
makes the rotor a 25 pound doorstop

that said, some companies including rotora do make SOME rotors to be drilled- by them!

 

If i get the ( 1995 honda Legend LS-C (coupe) front dual piston calipers ) Will i have to do any modification on my 03 Tl ?
thanks

 

tx

 

does anyone have input on the 95 honda legend front dual piston calipers ?

 

EBC red stuff pads or hawk pads ?

 

Yep. #5 ^