DIY: Stabilizer Bar Links and Bushings
11-21-2009, 08:42 PM
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DIY: Stabilizer Bar Links and Bushings
DIY Date: 11/21/2009
Car: 1999 Acura 3.2 TL
Job: Replace Stabilizer Bar Links and Bushings
Parts:
-Left Stabilizer Bar Link
-Right Stabilizer Bar Link
-Stabilizer Bar Bushings
Tools Required:
-14mm Socket
-Ratchet (1/2" preferred)
-15mm Close-end Wrench
-Hammer
-Jack
-4 Stands or 2 Stands and a buddy.
-sand paper
Optional, but Recommended:
-Air Compressor
-Impact Gun
-Bench Vise
Background: Noted problem while entering a turn. The car was rocking into and rolling out of the turns too much. No control in the front end. In addition, while going over bumps a loud clunking noise was observed from the front end.
Diagnosis: Worn stabilizer bar bushings and links.
Repair:
Start by removing the front tires, jacking up the front of the car, and supporting it on the jack points located behind the front wheels. Remove the jack, leaving the stands to support the weight of the car.
Next, with a 14mm socket or impact gun remove the stabilizer bar bushing brackets located on both side of the exhaust pipe. Support the bar with two stands on either side or have a buddy hold the weight so the bar doesn't strain the exhaust pipping. I recommend stands because the next steps may take a while.
After you have performed the bushing removal, focus on one side of the stabilizer bar. The links may come out easy or may not at all. If you are lucky, use a 14mm socket and remove the bolts that hold the links to the bar. If you are not lucky and the joint just spins within the link ends while you are trying to unbolt it, you will have to break the links with a hammer. The links are metal on the outside, plastic, then a metal balljoint. To break the link, locate the four plastic circles on the the top end and bottom end of the link. Break them off by hammering or with a flathead screwdriver and hammering. Once you have broken the four plastic studs on the link you should be able to pry the metal cover and connecting bar for the link off. If not, hammer until they separate. Now that you have the link broken and the bar is not connected to the car on that end repeat on the other side until the bar is free floating on the stands.
Next, remove the bar by carefully maneuvering the bar out and over the exhaust pipe. It can be done on either side, but I found the drivers side easier because of how the bar is bent.
Now that the bar is out of from under the car you have to remove the link ends from all four connecting points. Two on the bar and two on the lower control arms. You'll see a grey plastic mushroom shaped cap that had the four stud ends that you broke off to separate the link ends. Smash that with a hammer until you have the balljoint end. At this point you're probably thinking, "dear god how can I do this now?" It's actually easy. If you have a grinding wheel like I do then you just square the ball and place it into a vise and wrench on the 14mm bolt end. If not, like most people. Take a well built 15mm close-end wrench and hammer it on over the ball part of the joint. That will give you something to keep it from spinning. Then, just wrench on the 14mm bolt and you will have it removed!
Now with the hole, take your sand paper and remove all the burs inside the hole. This is what causes the clunking in the front end while going over hole, among other things. Make sure the hole is smooth and clean for the new link ends. Once you have that done, you can repeat on all four connecting ends for the links until you have 4 holes and are ready to reinstall the bar under the car.
Put the bar under the car. Line it up in the way it should go once bolted. This will give you an idea how you have to maneuver it back over the exhaust. Start at the drivers side and twist the bar up over the exhaust while making sure it doesn't rest on the exhaust. Have your stands ready to support the weight of the bar on either side of the exhaust.
Now that the weight of the bar is supported and the bar is up over the exhaust. Take your new bushings and install them on the bar and place the bracket over them. Loosely, rebolt the bracket to the frame to hold the bar to the chassis. Once you have done that to both side you can remove the stands.
Lets focus on one side of the bar for the link install. Start with the top of the stabilizer bar and insert the link end through the hole on the bar. Bolt it loosely to allow flex. Then, install the bottom end of the link to the lower control arm and loosely bolt it down. Repeat on the other side.
Once you have the bar loosely bolted on the car. Bolt the bushing brackets down all the way and then do the link ends.
If you got greaseable fittings on your link ends, like I recommend you do, grease them at this point until you see grease coming from under the dust cover on the joints.
Clean up, take the car out and see if it is not 100% time better.
Car: 1999 Acura 3.2 TL
Job: Replace Stabilizer Bar Links and Bushings
Parts:
-Left Stabilizer Bar Link
-Right Stabilizer Bar Link
-Stabilizer Bar Bushings
Tools Required:
-14mm Socket
-Ratchet (1/2" preferred)
-15mm Close-end Wrench
-Hammer
-Jack
-4 Stands or 2 Stands and a buddy.
-sand paper
Optional, but Recommended:
-Air Compressor
-Impact Gun
-Bench Vise
Background: Noted problem while entering a turn. The car was rocking into and rolling out of the turns too much. No control in the front end. In addition, while going over bumps a loud clunking noise was observed from the front end.
Diagnosis: Worn stabilizer bar bushings and links.
Repair:
Start by removing the front tires, jacking up the front of the car, and supporting it on the jack points located behind the front wheels. Remove the jack, leaving the stands to support the weight of the car.
Next, with a 14mm socket or impact gun remove the stabilizer bar bushing brackets located on both side of the exhaust pipe. Support the bar with two stands on either side or have a buddy hold the weight so the bar doesn't strain the exhaust pipping. I recommend stands because the next steps may take a while.
After you have performed the bushing removal, focus on one side of the stabilizer bar. The links may come out easy or may not at all. If you are lucky, use a 14mm socket and remove the bolts that hold the links to the bar. If you are not lucky and the joint just spins within the link ends while you are trying to unbolt it, you will have to break the links with a hammer. The links are metal on the outside, plastic, then a metal balljoint. To break the link, locate the four plastic circles on the the top end and bottom end of the link. Break them off by hammering or with a flathead screwdriver and hammering. Once you have broken the four plastic studs on the link you should be able to pry the metal cover and connecting bar for the link off. If not, hammer until they separate. Now that you have the link broken and the bar is not connected to the car on that end repeat on the other side until the bar is free floating on the stands.
Next, remove the bar by carefully maneuvering the bar out and over the exhaust pipe. It can be done on either side, but I found the drivers side easier because of how the bar is bent.
Now that the bar is out of from under the car you have to remove the link ends from all four connecting points. Two on the bar and two on the lower control arms. You'll see a grey plastic mushroom shaped cap that had the four stud ends that you broke off to separate the link ends. Smash that with a hammer until you have the balljoint end. At this point you're probably thinking, "dear god how can I do this now?" It's actually easy. If you have a grinding wheel like I do then you just square the ball and place it into a vise and wrench on the 14mm bolt end. If not, like most people. Take a well built 15mm close-end wrench and hammer it on over the ball part of the joint. That will give you something to keep it from spinning. Then, just wrench on the 14mm bolt and you will have it removed!
Now with the hole, take your sand paper and remove all the burs inside the hole. This is what causes the clunking in the front end while going over hole, among other things. Make sure the hole is smooth and clean for the new link ends. Once you have that done, you can repeat on all four connecting ends for the links until you have 4 holes and are ready to reinstall the bar under the car.
Put the bar under the car. Line it up in the way it should go once bolted. This will give you an idea how you have to maneuver it back over the exhaust. Start at the drivers side and twist the bar up over the exhaust while making sure it doesn't rest on the exhaust. Have your stands ready to support the weight of the bar on either side of the exhaust.
Now that the weight of the bar is supported and the bar is up over the exhaust. Take your new bushings and install them on the bar and place the bracket over them. Loosely, rebolt the bracket to the frame to hold the bar to the chassis. Once you have done that to both side you can remove the stands.
Lets focus on one side of the bar for the link install. Start with the top of the stabilizer bar and insert the link end through the hole on the bar. Bolt it loosely to allow flex. Then, install the bottom end of the link to the lower control arm and loosely bolt it down. Repeat on the other side.
Once you have the bar loosely bolted on the car. Bolt the bushing brackets down all the way and then do the link ends.
If you got greaseable fittings on your link ends, like I recommend you do, grease them at this point until you see grease coming from under the dust cover on the joints.
Clean up, take the car out and see if it is not 100% time better.
11-21-2009, 09:18 PM
#2
Nice write up and pics!
I'll add though...the links have hex key to hold the joint from spinning. But by the looks of the amount of rust you had, it would have been useless. Just like mine were.
And I suggest people doing this to soakkkkk all the bolts with PB Blaster or WD40 before removing them. It should save some headaches dealing with rust.
Just my
but I would done it like this so you wouldn't have to deal with supporting or removing the bar:
Remove 1 bracket.
Loosen the other bracket so the bar drops slighty.
Remove and replace the bushing. Put the bolts back to hold the bar up and do the other bushing.
Tighten the both brackets.
Now you can tackle each end link one by one with the bar supported!
Nice write up though.
I'll add though...the links have hex key to hold the joint from spinning. But by the looks of the amount of rust you had, it would have been useless. Just like mine were.
And I suggest people doing this to soakkkkk all the bolts with PB Blaster or WD40 before removing them. It should save some headaches dealing with rust.
Just my
but I would done it like this so you wouldn't have to deal with supporting or removing the bar:Remove 1 bracket.
Loosen the other bracket so the bar drops slighty.
Remove and replace the bushing. Put the bolts back to hold the bar up and do the other bushing.
Tighten the both brackets.
Now you can tackle each end link one by one with the bar supported!
Nice write up though.
11-22-2009, 08:23 AM
#3
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Age: 38
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Mine were actually so bad that the link on the drivers side wasn't even attached it was broken and the bar was floating.
You're right, if you can get away without removing the bar, do it. I had to take mine out to get the link ends removed because I couldn't do it from under the car. I had to use a bench vise and a grinder because they were that bad.
You're right, if you can get away without removing the bar, do it. I had to take mine out to get the link ends removed because I couldn't do it from under the car. I had to use a bench vise and a grinder because they were that bad.
Last edited by Acura2g; 11-22-2009 at 08:26 AM.
07-24-2010, 05:05 PM
#6
If you have a grinding wheel like I do then you just square the ball and place it into a vise and wrench on the 14mm bolt end. If not, like most people. Take a well built 15mm close-end wrench and hammer it on over the ball part of the joint. That will give you something to keep it from spinning. Then, just wrench on the 14mm bolt and you will have it removed!
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