Chanrith

My drivers seat just went out so I'm definitely adding this one to my todo list. Thanks for the help.

BC_FLA

My drivers seat is out. Not sure about changing yet, but thanks for the info!

Chanrith

Mod, I think this thread belongs in the DIY thread. I had trouble finding it today and recommend adding it to your DIY thread list. Thanks.

01tl4tl

At least rename it: seat heat fixed $3 and sticky to diy section

Chanrith

So I attempted this fix today but ended up having an issue taking off one of the bolts (the right front). Looks like my socket was stripped so I gave up. I used a 14mm socket and didn't have anything smaller. I'm gonna give it another shot when I have the proper tools.

davidrogers

I'll have to give this a try since both of my seats are not heating up at all and the fuse checked out fine.

Thanks for the DIY

my.daily'tl'

I'm glad this thread got bumped up. My drivers seat needs some work. Good fix!

01tl4tl

check the power at each seat wire connection to the heaters- its odd to have both seats fail

Its usually the driver seat bottem breaks a wire- right about where a mans wallet would put extra pressure in one spot
BUT
seat backs have been known to fail

Note: only the driver seat gets both butt and low back heat, passenger only gets butt heat...its a side airbag/sensors issue on passenger side

totaledTL

Except '99.

01tl4tl

ok- I defer to anyone with a pre 01, I only know about my car and beyond

murky

Has anybody done the passenger side? Is there anything special I need to do to avoid messing up the airbag or anything?

Do I need a certain size or shape of hog rings, or do I just need anything that will close?

ivey_usmc

great write up i need to do the same on my ds seat

goMO

do the hog rings need to be replaced after taking them off? Does Home Depot have them? Everyone mentions that its just $3 of wire, but how 'bout the hog rings?

Russell The Love Muscle

I used two pliers to open the hog rings up enough to get them off and back on, then I used the pliers to squeeze them shut

totaledTL

Post #151.

goMO

post 151 says "Just cut the HOG rings with some good side cutters, then replace them when you're finished. Watch out for the pieces that can fly out when you cut them. Get new ones at an upholstery shop, or try a craft or fabric store."

I wasn't sure what was meant when it said "replace" them and to get new ones at an upholstery shop.

thx! I was going to do this yesterday, but the boss made me hit the honeydo list... at least the Yankees won!

goMO

if both the seat back and bottom don't work, will fixing the typical burnt wire (assuming that's the problem) on the bottom fix the seat back, or does that need to come apart as well?

01tl4tl

seperate systems upper and lower iirc,,or you are the first to experience it
If driver side both are out- check the power to the seat first- could get lucky

If passenger seat- the butt is only part to get heat- side airbag sensor issue on passenger seat so no low back warmth for them

You can buy Hog Ring pliers and rings as said before, a few bucks, or use 2 pliers to open and re-close
They look like the round metal ring in a hogs nose ,,or some humans~~
the pliers-like tool squeezes them back together round
I have used both methods in the past

totaledTL

Except '99.

Russell The Love Muscle

I didn't have the butt or back working on my car, I fixed the bottom and put it back together, and the back still doesn't work; so they are seperate systems...

I have nothing to back it up, but I think Acura just didn't put warmers in the upper part of the passenger seat; if the driver can have an airbag, lumbar adjust, and the warmer, why couldn't the passenger have an airbag and a warmer... unless is has something to do with the sensor used to turn on/off the airbag!

goMO

Thanks! Ok, I guess I should check the power first. I did check the fuse and that is fine. Can someone tell me (in 5th grade terms how to check the power to the seat?

JterrorC

iTrader: (1)

how do you check power???

home depot doesnt know what hog pliers are....wth!? ...

goMO

uh, thanks for the help....

who said HD doesn't know what hog pliers are?

JterrorC

iTrader: (1)

i said.....i askd them where they could be..and they said n i quote "i have never heard of hog ring pliers"

fsttyms1

Thats part of the reason, is because of the sensors and auto off

fsttyms1

its in it.

totaledTL

Forget Home Depot- they probably have little or no call for them. Go to a craft or fabric/upholstery shop. I've also seen them at Tractor Supply co.

Nersh7

ok so I'm an electrical noob, but what I got out of this is that only the two connector wires, burn out because they have to much resistance and should have less...? so when swapping out the wires the only parts that need to be changed are the two connecting ones.

Please tell me if I'm wrong and if so what wires I need to make bigger.

totaledTL

Not sure what you mean by "connector wires". It's the element wire that burnt open on mine. You don't want to change the size of the wire as resistance in the wire is what generates the heat, which is what you want in this application.

BTW my repaired seat bottom element (last year) has failed again so I plan to replace the element w/ the honeycomb type like I put in the seat back.

Nersh7

so using 18 gauge lamp wire, as said back a couple pages would not be right?

Pureadrenaline

You guys are working way to hard. All you need to do is purchases this! It even massages.

01tl4tl

nersh- you need to use the same size wire to replace the broken segment
Bad enough the connectors increase the resistance, dont make it worse!
The factory wire size is the right size, the problem is usually caused by a wallet..

01tl4tl

pure- wheres the seat from? $$?

totaledTL

Nah, that would probably move around & looks are questionable. Interesting alternative though.

Nersh7

I went around to a bunch of places, 38 gauge wire is incredibly hard to find. Correct me if I'm wrong but by going to a larger wire nothing will go wrong, other than that strand of wire won't heat up because it will have less resistance right? And since the only part I need to replace is just about at the joint between the ass and back, I don't really need heat there. So I should be able to add larger wire and more of it for less stress.

totaledTL

It's no where close to that small. Maybe around 20-22 ga. Get some wire strippers with the individual stripping holes and you can use them to check the size.
Mine (bottom element) has failed again & it's not because of a wallet because I don't sit on mine.

'02_TL-S

^My butt starts to fall asleep if I sit on my wallet..and mine's out too so it can't be from a wallet. I wonder why yours would go out again tho..hmm..did you use thicker wire and give it more slack?

totaledTL

Opened it up again. There are 2 rods that run across the seat bottom, under which the heater element is fitted. Both times it has burnt underneath the rod closest to the front of the seat. This time I replaced the element wires that go under that rod with larger wire covered with a protective sleeve. We'll see how that holds up.

vtec260

My repair using 18 gauge wire is holding up great after my last repair and gets nice and hot every time. I don't put wallet in my back pocket anymore, just in case. Those aftermarket seat warmer doesn't look good in TL. Maybe in a Buick....LOL

emaka9

iTrader: (3)

my driver seat heater went out. thnx for this