Hey everyone, I got to thinking, I absolutely hate the dipstick tube design on these guys compared to the newer J series engines where its right up top built into the head and everything.

Would it be possible to swap to the valve cover that comes on slightly newer engines and use that dipstick instead? What else would have to or could change from this? Deleting the dipstick tube and plugging it would need to happen but could you just swap to the newer oil pump as well?
I'm going to base everything I go on from a 2000 TL with a j32a1 and a 2004 TL with a J32a3.
Right off the bat, the A1 looks like it has the passage on the left that goes all the way down to the pan just like my j35z2 does when i take off the rocker arm control valve so the dipstick should have a place to go no problem.

Underneath the exhaust rocker arm on the left is the passage/hole i'm referring to. She's a little dark i know, but she's got over 240k miles on her


The first thing i see being an issue is the vacuum hose that feeds into the intake tube, but that's not bad, just a bit more vacuum line to go from the opposite end of the valve cover isn't a big deal.
Next would be the 2nd pcv valve, original one is in the rear valve cover and goes into the intake, the new style is in the front valve cover and vents to atmosphere as far as i can tell. Would a 2nd one be an issue or could it even be better since both heads have a valve now?
Would swapping both valve covers and adding a non butterfly valve intake be a better solution for these issues (barring the slightly different vacuum lines for the FPR and the ECMS)?

Oil pump is very close to being drop in; the one and only thing that concerns me is the crank sensor, it looks a lot different on the a3 vs the a1. Looking it up quick says the new ones a hall effect and the old ones a variable reluctance sensor, I know how hall effects work but i'm guessing the VR one just changes resistance as it goes along, otherwise they both use similar (but different part number wise) trigger wheels for that sensor. Could the hall effect one be adapted to the old style to output the correct signals?

If those issues are able to be sorted, the main benefit to not having a dipstick tube I was thinking about would be to use the newer belt style and tensioner, one where the crank pulley isn't a 2 piece design. One with a newer power steering pump and mount setup that isn't its own tensioner that you don't need to remove an engine mount for to do its belt. This would also make doing the timing belt a bit easier in my opinion especially since the tube is in the way of one of the timing cover bolts already. Anyone have any thoughts or other ideas on these? (I also tried ordering a new o ring for the tube when i did a timing belt on this thing, which got taken off my order because they're "unavailable" but still show up on acurapartswarehouse able to buy em. So that's part of why i dont like them very much, this'll take away another place for it to leak from. Thankfully its not leaking here, yet)

Recently I've been chasing down some other oil leaks that have been plaguing our driveway too, i resealed the oil pan (again, a few months after I did rod bearings), the cam plate seals at the back of the engine have been replaced on both heads, i think those were big contenders, the filter housing and sensor/solenoid gaskets were replaced, i cleaned and reseated the valve covers i did not too long ago as well. I think that solved most of it, but our driveway will be the judge of that and I'm not quite sure what else could even be leaking after all i've done for this thing. (maybe rear main? i did see some oil around bellhousing like it was flung from there when i pulled off that little access plate as i did the pan)

 

You have a novel idea and I don't think I have ever seen anyone consider this 3G TL dipstick approach, to a 2G TL engine, since my membership here, after all these years.
If you undertake said endeavor, please document your findings here, though, to say the least this particular forum is a when it comes to frequent traffic anymore.
With that said, I personally never had an issue with obtaining that particular 'dipstick' o-ring and I always replace it anyway 'while there', after removing it for a TB install.

Just an FYI, there is a 'functionality on APW.com that allows one, whom may have a large part order, to check their site for 'part availability' via the 'contact us' area before pulling the trigger.



If I don't find any joy there I will resort to checking Honda vendor sites as well.