Hey guys I am very confused about diagnosing the rear grid line break. Some people say that put the black lead of multimeter on a good ground and the red lead on the grid line. Other people say put both leads on the grid lines. Can someone direct me to the right direction please.

 

Are you getting power to the rear defroster ?
To check for incoming voltage with the car's key and defroster switch turned on, put the meter's red lead on the rhs(+) terminal for the defroster grid and the black lead on a body ground.

Once power is verified, then continuity is checked using the lhs(-) terminal for the defroster grid and a body ground. No continuity reading would indicate a grounding problem.

To check individual defroster grid wires for a break, touch the voltmeter's red lead halfway on the wire and the black lead on the (-)lhs terminal for the grid. If good the meter's reading should be 6V, if more than 6V = a break in (-)side of grid wire, if less than 6V = a break in (+)side of grid wire. You can check each wire if unsure which one may be bad. Ref. note: {Driver's side = (-) side, Pass = (+).}

 

I am getting power but there are few grid lines that doesn't work. I just bought the test light. I think it would be easier to find the break with it. I was wondering, is it okay to put both neg and pos on grid lines?

 

Hey, it never hurts to try !
Basically the above procedure is from the service manual, but who knows......maybe the light will detect a break in continuity ???? IDK

 

So, we don't need ground when checking continuity in individual grid line right? Well, I am not clear lol I was asking whether I can place both postive and negative lead on the grid line?

 

Yes with the tester set to Ohms = a horse-shoe looking symbol for the noobs
touch leads together should read near zero as its full circle contact

now the ends of each defrost wire with a lead
the one that pegs the meter isnt working