custom fab front lower tie bar
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
custom fab front lower tie bar
I had made this tie bar for a while but finally installed it last weekend. I have the H&R springs with a stock setup. This is copy of the skunk2 setup on CRAZYACUA's (not sure but it was on a earlier post.) The car feels tighter around turns and I noticed less front body roll....
http://community.webshots.com/user/thescoundrel
Here is a breakdown of parts:
2 - tie rod ends (0.5" threaded)
2- M12 X1.25 X 50mm flange bolt.
4- 1.5" od 0.5" id washers
4- 1" od 0.5" id washers
1- 5/8" 6061 aluminum rod with 0.5" thread to match the tie rods (24" length)
2- 0.5" locking nuts.
total price should be $25...I ordered all parts off the shelf from a local machine shop...If you go with a larger diameter aluminum rod you need to order more washers to act like spacers...the hardest part was finding a place to lift the car (springs with oem kit) I finally used the front jack point.
the thread size for the tie rod and aluminum rod will vary because I noticed that some manufacturers of the tie rods do not use the same size...Once you get the parts you just put it together with wrenches and sockets...no cutting, welding, or machining is necessary.
http://community.webshots.com/user/thescoundrel
Here is a breakdown of parts:
2 - tie rod ends (0.5" threaded)
2- M12 X1.25 X 50mm flange bolt.
4- 1.5" od 0.5" id washers
4- 1" od 0.5" id washers
1- 5/8" 6061 aluminum rod with 0.5" thread to match the tie rods (24" length)
2- 0.5" locking nuts.
total price should be $25...I ordered all parts off the shelf from a local machine shop...If you go with a larger diameter aluminum rod you need to order more washers to act like spacers...the hardest part was finding a place to lift the car (springs with oem kit) I finally used the front jack point.
the thread size for the tie rod and aluminum rod will vary because I noticed that some manufacturers of the tie rods do not use the same size...Once you get the parts you just put it together with wrenches and sockets...no cutting, welding, or machining is necessary.
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
I used the same mounting points as per the neuspeed bar version. The bolts and tie rod are high strength material (steel harded). The aluminum rod is 6061 and is only seeing compression or elongation. The bar is just an additional beam piece and is not a major structural beam, so it couldn't hurt (just like a strut tower bar). The existing mount point is just a hold part of the "sub frame front" to the frame. You don't loose anything by adding the lower tie bar (besides adding some weight) because you don't remove any existing suspension hardware.
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
thanks,
i'm presently working on a rear lower tie bar (to tie between the lower a-arms). it's gonna be a little bit more complicated because of the exhaust but i'm get pics once i'm finished. I believe that there is a rear strut bar available, i remembered someone on this site posting it...
i'm presently working on a rear lower tie bar (to tie between the lower a-arms). it's gonna be a little bit more complicated because of the exhaust but i'm get pics once i'm finished. I believe that there is a rear strut bar available, i remembered someone on this site posting it...
#6
Hey scondrel...hope ur rear tie bar comes along...u know that i'll purchase one from you when you do. Thanks for the front tie bar! I got myself obx headers for $325 shipped from the blackmarket on A-CL.com haven't installed it yet though.
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DiamondJoeQuimby
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09-10-2015 11:40 AM