cold outside fucked up my car i think

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Old 12-22-2008, 06:32 PM
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[QUOTE=thinhthan;10289125]so this is wat my car looks like now



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Old 12-22-2008, 08:28 PM
  #42  
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Are there 2 threaded holes in the rotor that you can screw bolts into to push it off?
Old 12-22-2008, 09:19 PM
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Getting the little screw out is a pain. Spray some good penetrating oil on it (not WD40), then heat the area around the screw with a propane torch. Try to loosen. Repeat.

If that doesn't work, you can always drill it out.
Old 12-22-2008, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by thinhthan
can anyone help me out with other ways to remove the rotors so i can take the knuckle out so i can replace the ball joint and axle. i was planning on bringing the knuckle to a machine shop so they can instll the ball joint
Assuming you got the screws out, on the OEM rotors there are two threaded holes, and if you use a pair of 8x1.25 mm bolts in those holes, you can press the disk off.
Old 12-22-2008, 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by swalch@stanford.edu
Assuming you got the screws out, on the OEM rotors there are two threaded holes, and if you use a pair of 8x1.25 mm bolts in those holes, you can press the disk off.
no i havent got the screws out. i tried spraying rust eater penatrating oil on it and it still wont come out. i need to do something quick cause city just left me a tow notice and give me 72 hours to remove the car.
Old 12-23-2008, 07:01 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by thinhthan
no i havent got the screws out. i tried spraying rust eater penatrating oil on it and it still wont come out. i need to do something quick cause city just left me a tow notice and give me 72 hours to remove the car.
You can remove the knuckles with the rotors still attached. They will just be a bit heavier. Just unbolt the calipers and wire them out of the way, e.g. to the strut spring.

You will still need to separate the upper ball joint and tie rod end. Then drag the whole thing including the rotor and outer CV joint to the machine shop and let them figure out how to get it apart. They can remove the outer CV joint nut with an impact tool and will drill out the rotor screws.

Good luck. It must be miserable trying to work on this in the street in the cold.
Old 12-23-2008, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by swalch@stanford.edu
You can remove the knuckles with the rotors still attached. They will just be a bit heavier. Just unbolt the calipers and wire them out of the way, e.g. to the strut spring.

You will still need to separate the upper ball joint and tie rod end. Then drag the whole thing including the rotor and outer CV joint to the machine shop and let them figure out how to get it apart. They can remove the outer CV joint nut with an impact tool and will drill out the rotor screws.

Good luck. It must be miserable trying to work on this in the street in the cold.
yes it is it freaking sucks. its so cold. well my brother is coming up to see if he can get it off. hopefully he can. i still gotta find a ball joint puller too if i wanna get the top part off
Old 12-23-2008, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by thinhthan
...im going to lincoln tech...what do you mean by it has to be "pressed out" ...
FIrst week there?!
Old 12-23-2008, 03:58 PM
  #49  
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no just finshed my 3rrd phase. why? ok i got the screws out of the rotor but i have a hard time taking the hub bolt off.
Old 12-23-2008, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by thinhthan
no just finshed my 3rrd phase. why? ok i got the screws out of the rotor but i have a hard time taking the hub bolt off.
Normally the nut holding the outer CV joint in the hub is removed with an impact wrench or a large breaker bar with the weight of the car on that wheel. With the lower ball joint broken it will be difficult to break the nut loose, since the suspension isn't rigid enough.

I would go ahead and take out the knuckle assembly with the outer CV joint still in it. A shop with a heavy duty air wrench can break that nut loose with the assembly off the car. An alternative is to use a piece of angle iron locked against two wheel studs to prevent the hub from turning and use a socket and large breaker bar with a length of pipe to loosen the nut.
Old 12-23-2008, 05:37 PM
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Just to be clear, you need to remove the center cap from the wheel and put it back on. Then lower the car down so the weight is on the wheel and apply the brakes. The nut can then be loosened with a 36 mm socket, a 3/4" drive breaker bar, and a length of pipe. You may be able to rent 3/4" drive tools.
Old 12-23-2008, 06:24 PM
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ok i finaly got the rotors out and the outer cv axle out. i unbolt the ball joint from the upper control arm and the steering thingy but how do i pull them apart. and how can i pull the inner cv axle from the tranny?
Old 12-23-2008, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by thinhthan
ok i finaly got the rotors out and the outer cv axle out. i unbolt the ball joint from the upper control arm and the steering thingy but how do i pull them apart. and how can i pull the inner cv axle from the tranny?
The upper ball joint and tie rod end require some kind of puller. One tool that works is a small pitman arm puller, which you can rent, or you can buy it from a car parts store for about $20 or so.

The inner CV joint is retained in the tranny by a wire clip that is inside a grove in the side gears of the differential. It is removed with a pry bar. You want to pry it out away from the transaxle. A large screwdriver may be adequate.
Old 12-23-2008, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by swalch@stanford.edu
The upper ball joint and tie rod end require some kind of puller. One tool that works is a small pitman arm puller, which you can rent, or you can buy it from a car parts store for about $20 or so.

The inner CV joint is retained in the tranny by a wire clip that is inside a grove in the side gears of the differential. It is removed with a pry bar. You want to pry it out away from the transaxle. A large screwdriver may be adequate.

exactly what i was gonna say...I don't use pickle forks because they usually tear the boot of the ball joint/tie rod.

For the axle you can use a large screwdriver or prybar and put it between the axle stub and the trans case, then just try prying it out, otherwise a few jerks will pop it out maybe 1/4" then it just slides out
Old 12-23-2008, 10:22 PM
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well ill be trying to finish this tomorrow cause i was working all day in the cold and sitting on ice
Old 12-24-2008, 05:33 PM
  #56  
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well just finshed my car everything seems to run great thanks alot to all the ziners that help me thanks
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