cleaned the EGR port/IM and ran Seafoam through the IM
#1
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cleaned the EGR port/IM and ran Seafoam through the IM
I know there are countless threads about this but I am bored at work! I wanted to encourage any of you that are experiencing some rough idle and/or sub par fuel mileage to get this done. Spend the $20 on a can of Seafoam and 2 cans of carb cleaner and about 2 hours of your time. You will not be disappointed. It has been about 40k miles since I did this last time and I noticed my idle was a little rough at times so I figured the EGR port was probably getting clogged up, sure enough it was over 50% clogged at least.
After taking the IM and TB off and cleaning them up real good - along with the EGR port I put them back on and ran about 1/2 can of Seafoam through the TB vacuum line. Thanks to the most recent DIY Seafoam posts I used this different line vs. using the vac line on the back of the IM that only fed 3 of the cylinders. Let it sit for about 10 minutes then went to smoke up the streets!
It did not smoke for near as long as it did the 1st time I did this, only for probably 2 or 3 blocks worth of VTEC. Then just a little bit after that. Oh ya I also cleaned my K&N filter.
I have 154,000 miles and the car idles like new, very smooth with 0 RPM fluctuations. I really think this is a very important maintenance step these engines need more than other engines. The only real important thing is to remember to only torque the IM and TB bolts down to around 17ft lbs; and be sure to put all the hoses back on securely.
After taking the IM and TB off and cleaning them up real good - along with the EGR port I put them back on and ran about 1/2 can of Seafoam through the TB vacuum line. Thanks to the most recent DIY Seafoam posts I used this different line vs. using the vac line on the back of the IM that only fed 3 of the cylinders. Let it sit for about 10 minutes then went to smoke up the streets!
It did not smoke for near as long as it did the 1st time I did this, only for probably 2 or 3 blocks worth of VTEC. Then just a little bit after that. Oh ya I also cleaned my K&N filter.
I have 154,000 miles and the car idles like new, very smooth with 0 RPM fluctuations. I really think this is a very important maintenance step these engines need more than other engines. The only real important thing is to remember to only torque the IM and TB bolts down to around 17ft lbs; and be sure to put all the hoses back on securely.
#3
iirc torque is 16 foot pounds
Try a full can of seafoam thru the Main vac port at the TB
Follow seafoam diy warm up and after drive instructions for best results
Use a can in 1/2 tank of gas now
Make sure to clean the throttle butterfly plate inside the TB - both sides and edges- use a toothbrush and rags if really bad
1 egr port? must be a 99, later years have 6, and there is a really good Acura method to clean the intake runners and egr ports so everything is like new
It seems that every 75k miles is good to pull the intake and clean it
Try a full can of seafoam thru the Main vac port at the TB
Follow seafoam diy warm up and after drive instructions for best results
Use a can in 1/2 tank of gas now
Make sure to clean the throttle butterfly plate inside the TB - both sides and edges- use a toothbrush and rags if really bad
1 egr port? must be a 99, later years have 6, and there is a really good Acura method to clean the intake runners and egr ports so everything is like new
It seems that every 75k miles is good to pull the intake and clean it
#4
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I did warm it up like necessary but I probably could have used the whole can like you said. And I cleaned the TB also, but it was not very bad. Just a very thin black coating that came off very quick. When cleaning the IM I just kept on spraying the carb cleaner in all of the runners and running water through it until no more carbon came out. It did take nearly 2 full cans.
Yes it is a '99TL, should have mentioned that before. Wonder if the EGR design/flow is just bad or what reason would cause it to clog up so quick? I would say with my car the fact that there is only 1 very small port could be the reason...
Yes it is a '99TL, should have mentioned that before. Wonder if the EGR design/flow is just bad or what reason would cause it to clog up so quick? I would say with my car the fact that there is only 1 very small port could be the reason...
#5
even with 6 ports- the later years have the same problem
Stupid smog equipment
Stupid smog equipment
#6
repeat the seafoam in gas and vac in a month - will finish off the cleaning and then good for a year /15k miles
#7
03 ABP tls
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lol thats random i did my egr port cleaning this afternoon too. idles much better now of course. didnt run the seafoam thru tho, i just did the deep creep+crankcase+gas tank seafoam when i changed my oil last month.
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#10
Instructor
thank you for convincing me to get off my lazy butt and get this done - did the EGR last year but have had the can of seafoam just collecting dust in my garage. Yes - tons of posts about this, but how can you not write about doing something this gratifying?? Unfortunately it was windy as all heck tonight and I was apparently doing this downwind. Hey - maybe inhaling all that burnt seafoam will clean out my lungs. Or maybe I'll just be blowing white smoke out my butt all day tomorrow. We'll see. Thanks again.
#12
the smoke is simply the oils in seafoam reacting to heat in the cat
No smoke- not enough heat!
Try pointing the nose of the car into the wind to avoid fumes
No smoke- not enough heat!
Try pointing the nose of the car into the wind to avoid fumes
#13
DeepCreep works really well to soften and remove a lot of that crud in the intake, give it a spray- maybe some toothbrush and follow with carb cleaner to rinse it out
#14
Show me
I have used Seafoam on my 1990 Integra and I am very tempted to try it on my 2000 TL. Tell me, where do I feed the Seafoam? Where exactly? I am going to buy some today and Seafoam my brothers car as well.
How difficult is it to pull off the intake manifold? Are there any special adjusments when putting the Throttle body back on?
How difficult is it to pull off the intake manifold? Are there any special adjusments when putting the Throttle body back on?
#15
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I have used Seafoam on my 1990 Integra and I am very tempted to try it on my 2000 TL. Tell me, where do I feed the Seafoam? Where exactly? I am going to buy some today and Seafoam my brothers car as well.
How difficult is it to pull off the intake manifold? Are there any special adjusments when putting the Throttle body back on?
How difficult is it to pull off the intake manifold? Are there any special adjusments when putting the Throttle body back on?
some say not to use the stock vac line and to get a spare piece to connect to the same spot on the TB.
very easy to take off the IM - 9 bolts and a few hoses/lines that you can easily see from looking at it. just be sure to torque the bolts down to around 16 or 17 ft lbs
no adjustments needed for the cables, they use 2 bolts to hold them in place now. just loosen 1 of them to take them off their bracket. then when you put it back on you only have to tighten that one bolt and it will be exactly in the same place
Last edited by ou sig; 03-17-2009 at 12:33 PM.
#16
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random thought - my wife drives my mom's old car - 2001 Avalon. currently has 118k miles and the engine runs as smooth as new, same said for the transmission. I know the only work done on the engine is a spark plug/timing belt replacement and the transmission fluid has been drained/filled 1 time. Now I would never want to drive this car over my car, but what is Honda's deal?
#17
ou sig
I cant figure out what you used to put the seafoam in--sensor?
the one on the driver fenderwell? thats been found to be wrong
The Correct vac port is right at the TB housing- a small finger size hose with a clamp you can squeeze with your fingers to open
Its the ONLY hose and clamp like that to be found~ Look for the CLAMP
Remove the plastic top engine cover for access
That nipple feeds direct into the manifold at 20inches vac so there is no doubt its getting all 6 cylinders
the smaller hose that feeds off the rear of the manifold is the WRONG hose- it only gets 3 cyls- bad news- the old way-
see the first and last pages of seafoam diy
You WILL need a clear tube to fit the vac nipple or use clear bottle so you can see whats happening- makes tornadoes inside bottle!)
or buy seafoam in spray can version as DEEP CREEP, not all stores carry it- autozone and its offshoots do have it- easy to use and cleans the TB inner round plate
See Thermoblock Spacer in DIY section for how to remove intake manifold, should be a supplemental detailed EGR cleaning diy there too with the special acura method of upside down flush then right side up and flush intake runners and egr ports
I cant figure out what you used to put the seafoam in--sensor?
the one on the driver fenderwell? thats been found to be wrong
The Correct vac port is right at the TB housing- a small finger size hose with a clamp you can squeeze with your fingers to open
Its the ONLY hose and clamp like that to be found~ Look for the CLAMP
Remove the plastic top engine cover for access
That nipple feeds direct into the manifold at 20inches vac so there is no doubt its getting all 6 cylinders
the smaller hose that feeds off the rear of the manifold is the WRONG hose- it only gets 3 cyls- bad news- the old way-
see the first and last pages of seafoam diy
You WILL need a clear tube to fit the vac nipple or use clear bottle so you can see whats happening- makes tornadoes inside bottle!)
or buy seafoam in spray can version as DEEP CREEP, not all stores carry it- autozone and its offshoots do have it- easy to use and cleans the TB inner round plate
See Thermoblock Spacer in DIY section for how to remove intake manifold, should be a supplemental detailed EGR cleaning diy there too with the special acura method of upside down flush then right side up and flush intake runners and egr ports
#18
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sorry "sensor" was probably the wrong word. if you follow the vac line you are talking about from the TB to where it is connected to, I took it off there and kept it on the TB. so I am using the same hose/nipple you are talking about. I just used the stock hose and did not bother with a different one. but yes I highly suggest pouring the Seafoam in a plastic cup so you can regulate it much better.
long story short I think this is a 3 out of 10 on the difficulty (if that). take your time at 1st but there is no special tool or skill needed.
long story short I think this is a 3 out of 10 on the difficulty (if that). take your time at 1st but there is no special tool or skill needed.
#19
Flyin' and Drivin'
The one thing I don't get is the 16-17 pounds of tightening. How do you know you've tightened them enough (or too much)? Is there such a thing as tightening them too much? I don't have any special tools - just a regular old socket wrench.
#20
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some people with a lot of experience trust their "feel" but I would not recommend (17 ft/lbs is not very tight - for example 80 ft/lbs is used to put your tires on)
#21
Instructor
I thought I did. Wind changes.....
#22
actually the caliper bolts are often put on way past their spec with an air gun
but their size protects them better-
I have seen the threads of the caliper mounting bracket ripped out of the bracket! and stuck on the caliper bolt when removed!
The very small intake manifold bolts will break if too tight- happened to a member recently- thats a bummer requiring removal of manifold and broken stud
but their size protects them better-
I have seen the threads of the caliper mounting bracket ripped out of the bracket! and stuck on the caliper bolt when removed!
The very small intake manifold bolts will break if too tight- happened to a member recently- thats a bummer requiring removal of manifold and broken stud
#23
trust a loaner torque wrench- I dont think so!!
harbor freight tools has the 3/8 drive on sale for 15$ all the time or sears or your choice place for 25
Note: Leave your torque wrench set at 10 foot pounds when stored to maintain a slight tension on the spring --holds its calibration better
Thats why I say no loaner tool- no one else has taken care of it- probably left it cranked up to 80 which will throw your reading off - 16 wont be 16 anymore...
A leaking intake manifold will prevent the car from running properly- sucking in massive air-vac leak
harbor freight tools has the 3/8 drive on sale for 15$ all the time or sears or your choice place for 25
Note: Leave your torque wrench set at 10 foot pounds when stored to maintain a slight tension on the spring --holds its calibration better
Thats why I say no loaner tool- no one else has taken care of it- probably left it cranked up to 80 which will throw your reading off - 16 wont be 16 anymore...
A leaking intake manifold will prevent the car from running properly- sucking in massive air-vac leak
#24
One way to check how tight something should be-
try tightening it with a normal box end wrench before removal...
observe, how much muscle force does it take to make it tighter- just a little tighter!
Now when you put it back together- your muscles will recall the amount of force needed to set the stop point
try tightening it with a normal box end wrench before removal...
observe, how much muscle force does it take to make it tighter- just a little tighter!
Now when you put it back together- your muscles will recall the amount of force needed to set the stop point
#28
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oh I was just giving you good luck confidence - most important have fun working on your car. you will always have more pride and save money doing it yourself! let us know how it goes.
#30
Instructor
Any easy way to check calibration of the torque wrench? I've always wondered if I'm going to go through trouble of using that thing, how do I know if I'm getting an accurate reading??
#31
Mine has to go to the snap-on dealer
If you have the torque spec for a few places on the car that have not been touched- check the existing indicated torque on them compared to spec
The intake bolt will break while tightening,
while the brake bolt may break during heavy braking
repeat 3 times fast
If you have the torque spec for a few places on the car that have not been touched- check the existing indicated torque on them compared to spec
The intake bolt will break while tightening,
while the brake bolt may break during heavy braking
repeat 3 times fast
#32
............
i might do all this crap this weekend....i need to get as many mpg out of my daily driver as possible.
right now im getting about 230miles to a full tank, when i bought the car i was getting close to 300 miles to a tank.
right now im getting about 230miles to a full tank, when i bought the car i was getting close to 300 miles to a tank.
#34
wham bam thank you ma'am
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for the newbies. this is how u use a torque wrench. quick and to the point. only thing is, u can u and extension but your torque will not be correct. their is math involved in order to get the right torque
click on the youtube link
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOJqUpZSlLw
click on the youtube link
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOJqUpZSlLw
#35
............
i still need to install my AEM cai...hopefully that combined with new plugs, an oil change, egr port cleaning, new pcv valve, and maybe a sea foam will help me get some good gas mileage out of my beater.
#36
Instructor
230 per tank still sux - even stop and go. I'm sure you'll get some improvement with all that stuff, though. Since you're doing the EGR and taking out the plugs, may as well check your valves - if they're out of spec, that'll really mess with your mpgs.
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