CL-s pistons in my TL-p
#2
#6
You should have enough clearance.
It's when you use a Odyssey piston inside a CL-S block/heads.
RL's and CL-S are safe to use. If you are keeping the TL-P heads they have 2mm smaller intake valves so you have more than enough head room.
straight from Jcharged
It's when you use a Odyssey piston inside a CL-S block/heads.
RL's and CL-S are safe to use. If you are keeping the TL-P heads they have 2mm smaller intake valves so you have more than enough head room.
straight from Jcharged
#7
FPR pimpin'
WAIT dont do it yet!
fsttyms1 might know more, but what CL-S is this from?
reason being, is the CL-6 has FRM sleeves (like H22, S2K, NSX)
The thing with this is that pistons made for FRM sleeves expand and contract at different rates to match the sleeves, which is why, for example my bros H22, the only pistons that can go in there without resleeving are JUN (made by cosworth)
now I dont know if FRM compatible pistons will work in a normal sleeve
fsttyms1 might know more, but what CL-S is this from?
reason being, is the CL-6 has FRM sleeves (like H22, S2K, NSX)
The thing with this is that pistons made for FRM sleeves expand and contract at different rates to match the sleeves, which is why, for example my bros H22, the only pistons that can go in there without resleeving are JUN (made by cosworth)
now I dont know if FRM compatible pistons will work in a normal sleeve
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#8
Safety Car
iTrader: (5)
Total seal piston rings are a plus.
We are in the process of stroking (3.5) an A1 and adding new pistons/rings but keeping the TL-P heads and adding 07-08 TL-S cams. Just for the hell of it and see what power differences are.
Also just in case you are wondering about the CL-S Pistons, our friend is running CL-S pistons in his J30A4 block. 30K strong now...no damage but will keep posted if you are really worried about it.
We are in the process of stroking (3.5) an A1 and adding new pistons/rings but keeping the TL-P heads and adding 07-08 TL-S cams. Just for the hell of it and see what power differences are.
Also just in case you are wondering about the CL-S Pistons, our friend is running CL-S pistons in his J30A4 block. 30K strong now...no damage but will keep posted if you are really worried about it.
#15
Senior Moderator
With what your planning on doing turbo wise id be putting in TL-P pistons. Not RL pistons
If you guys would bother to use the SEARCH BUTTON you would have your questions answered on what fits and what doesnt. Phee i dont know what gains if any you would have by doing so. You dont have the TL-S upper end, or ECU tuning. Plus you would most likely want to get new rings, at minimum hone the cylinder walls and replace the bearings. (its more than just "tossing" them in)
If you guys would bother to use the SEARCH BUTTON you would have your questions answered on what fits and what doesnt. Phee i dont know what gains if any you would have by doing so. You dont have the TL-S upper end, or ECU tuning. Plus you would most likely want to get new rings, at minimum hone the cylinder walls and replace the bearings. (its more than just "tossing" them in)
#17
Senior Moderator
Look in the OT problems thread.
#19
Senior Moderator
Stock ones, Not at that compression and the boost your planning on tossing at it. Its also the Sleeves id be worried about. Have you seen them? Not exactly the winning design for high boost and compression.
You also better look at a full standalone.
You also better look at a full standalone.
#21
If you guys would bother to use the SEARCH BUTTON you would have your questions answered on what fits and what doesnt. Phee i dont know what gains if any you would have by doing so. You dont have the TL-S upper end, or ECU tuning. Plus you would most likely want to get new rings, at minimum hone the cylinder walls and replace the bearings. (its more than just "tossing" them in)[/QUOTE]
...
#23
Avant Garde Wheels
iTrader: (23)
^
i lost the e-manage bid.. got sold for $115..
if i find more for that price.. would you be interested??
but anywho..
i've heard boost like turbo would be better for lower compression like the TL-P... compare to TL-S.. i dunno.
And fsttyms1, by TL-S upper end do you mean like.. IM an TB wise?? or.. is there more to it..
i lost the e-manage bid.. got sold for $115..
if i find more for that price.. would you be interested??
but anywho..
i've heard boost like turbo would be better for lower compression like the TL-P... compare to TL-S.. i dunno.
And fsttyms1, by TL-S upper end do you mean like.. IM an TB wise?? or.. is there more to it..
#24
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To clear things up:
- RL/CL-S/TL-S pistons all fit the TL-P
- Nothing special needs to be done
- Honing is an obvious, very simple thing to do. Depending on your mileage and condition of your cylinder walls, you might not need it. simply glaze removing could suffice.
- You would need new piston rings, RL's are $50 for an entire set, CL-S are $32.
- About gains: They will be there. 0.7 points of compression which makes a difference, even with the stock top end. It's the same principle as putting Type-R pistons into a GS-R or LS integra. The gains exist without engine tuning. Yields more cylinder pressure during ignition, hence more force during the power stroke.
- If simply changing pistons, bearing replacement isn't required. Reuse original bearings in their original locations and cylinder number, it would be like the engine was never dissasembled. IF there is significant wear on the bearings, its obviously time you replace them anyway.
Also, the wrist pins are the same on the TL-P/CL-S/TL-S. You would re-use your original wrist pins in their original rods for an unchnaged wear pattern.
By upper end he means intake manifold, intake runnners, throttle body, IMRC controller. Heads are also included due to the 2mm larger intake valve and cam of course, but most people wouldn't go that far
- RL/CL-S/TL-S pistons all fit the TL-P
- Nothing special needs to be done
- Honing is an obvious, very simple thing to do. Depending on your mileage and condition of your cylinder walls, you might not need it. simply glaze removing could suffice.
- You would need new piston rings, RL's are $50 for an entire set, CL-S are $32.
- About gains: They will be there. 0.7 points of compression which makes a difference, even with the stock top end. It's the same principle as putting Type-R pistons into a GS-R or LS integra. The gains exist without engine tuning. Yields more cylinder pressure during ignition, hence more force during the power stroke.
- If simply changing pistons, bearing replacement isn't required. Reuse original bearings in their original locations and cylinder number, it would be like the engine was never dissasembled. IF there is significant wear on the bearings, its obviously time you replace them anyway.
Also, the wrist pins are the same on the TL-P/CL-S/TL-S. You would re-use your original wrist pins in their original rods for an unchnaged wear pattern.
By upper end he means intake manifold, intake runnners, throttle body, IMRC controller. Heads are also included due to the 2mm larger intake valve and cam of course, but most people wouldn't go that far
Last edited by adamlee05; 03-24-2009 at 12:51 PM.
#25
Senior Moderator
Though as far as gains go i dont think there would be enough for one to take the time and money to do just for this. Now if your rebuilding or have the spare parts (free) one could but its not something i would do without at least a 3.5 crank going in
#26
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Agree with Kris on this. The only reason we're talking about this is because I have a set of CL-S pistons from that donor engine I don't need and Phee and I were talking about putting them in his TL-P. Since his engine will be out for the tranny swap, and I've done this kind of work before, it would be a fun little project for an afternoon. Not to mention it would cost almost nothing for that extra bit of power
And before people ask, NO it wouldnt be like dropping a whole type-S engine under your hood , its just one of the differences between the Type-S and premium engines 10.5 vs 9.8
And before people ask, NO it wouldnt be like dropping a whole type-S engine under your hood , its just one of the differences between the Type-S and premium engines 10.5 vs 9.8
Last edited by adamlee05; 03-24-2009 at 12:56 PM.
#27
Senior Moderator
Good point
#29
Senior Moderator
#32
To clear things up:
- RL/CL-S/TL-S pistons all fit the TL-P
- Nothing special needs to be done
- Honing is an obvious, very simple thing to do. Depending on your mileage and condition of your cylinder walls, you might not need it. simply glaze removing could suffice.
- You would need new piston rings, RL's are $50 for an entire set, CL-S are $32.
- About gains: They will be there. 0.7 points of compression which makes a difference, even with the stock top end. It's the same principle as putting Type-R pistons into a GS-R or LS integra. The gains exist without engine tuning. Yields more cylinder pressure during ignition, hence more force during the power stroke.
- If simply changing pistons, bearing replacement isn't required. Reuse original bearings in their original locations and cylinder number, it would be like the engine was never dissasembled. IF there is significant wear on the bearings, its obviously time you replace them anyway.
Also, the wrist pins are the same on the TL-P/CL-S/TL-S. You would re-use your original wrist pins in their original rods for an unchnaged wear pattern.
By upper end he means intake manifold, intake runnners, throttle body, IMRC controller. Heads are also included due to the 2mm larger intake valve and cam of course, but most people wouldn't go that far
- RL/CL-S/TL-S pistons all fit the TL-P
- Nothing special needs to be done
- Honing is an obvious, very simple thing to do. Depending on your mileage and condition of your cylinder walls, you might not need it. simply glaze removing could suffice.
- You would need new piston rings, RL's are $50 for an entire set, CL-S are $32.
- About gains: They will be there. 0.7 points of compression which makes a difference, even with the stock top end. It's the same principle as putting Type-R pistons into a GS-R or LS integra. The gains exist without engine tuning. Yields more cylinder pressure during ignition, hence more force during the power stroke.
- If simply changing pistons, bearing replacement isn't required. Reuse original bearings in their original locations and cylinder number, it would be like the engine was never dissasembled. IF there is significant wear on the bearings, its obviously time you replace them anyway.
Also, the wrist pins are the same on the TL-P/CL-S/TL-S. You would re-use your original wrist pins in their original rods for an unchnaged wear pattern.
By upper end he means intake manifold, intake runnners, throttle body, IMRC controller. Heads are also included due to the 2mm larger intake valve and cam of course, but most people wouldn't go that far
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To clear things up:
- RL/CL-S/TL-S pistons all fit the TL-P
- Nothing special needs to be done
- Honing is an obvious, very simple thing to do. Depending on your mileage and condition of your cylinder walls, you might not need it. simply glaze removing could suffice.
- You would need new piston rings, RL's are $50 for an entire set, CL-S are $32.
- About gains: They will be there. 0.7 points of compression which makes a difference, even with the stock top end. It's the same principle as putting Type-R pistons into a GS-R or LS integra. The gains exist without engine tuning. Yields more cylinder pressure during ignition, hence more force during the power stroke.
- If simply changing pistons, bearing replacement isn't required. Reuse original bearings in their original locations and cylinder number, it would be like the engine was never dissasembled. IF there is significant wear on the bearings, its obviously time you replace them anyway.
Also, the wrist pins are the same on the TL-P/CL-S/TL-S. You would re-use your original wrist pins in their original rods for an unchnaged wear pattern.
By upper end he means intake manifold, intake runnners, throttle body, IMRC controller. Heads are also included due to the 2mm larger intake valve and cam of course, but most people wouldn't go that far
- RL/CL-S/TL-S pistons all fit the TL-P
- Nothing special needs to be done
- Honing is an obvious, very simple thing to do. Depending on your mileage and condition of your cylinder walls, you might not need it. simply glaze removing could suffice.
- You would need new piston rings, RL's are $50 for an entire set, CL-S are $32.
- About gains: They will be there. 0.7 points of compression which makes a difference, even with the stock top end. It's the same principle as putting Type-R pistons into a GS-R or LS integra. The gains exist without engine tuning. Yields more cylinder pressure during ignition, hence more force during the power stroke.
- If simply changing pistons, bearing replacement isn't required. Reuse original bearings in their original locations and cylinder number, it would be like the engine was never dissasembled. IF there is significant wear on the bearings, its obviously time you replace them anyway.
Also, the wrist pins are the same on the TL-P/CL-S/TL-S. You would re-use your original wrist pins in their original rods for an unchnaged wear pattern.
By upper end he means intake manifold, intake runnners, throttle body, IMRC controller. Heads are also included due to the 2mm larger intake valve and cam of course, but most people wouldn't go that far
#37
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If you still want them though, I have the crank/rods/bearings/pistons from the CL-S sitting in my room all numbered. Almost no wear whatsoever, beautiful
#39
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#40
Safety Car
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Amen.
I had 3 cars spin bearings on me already. All cars were bought used and supposedly "rebuilt".
I ended up having to pull and swap with another used engine. My current car has a scored crankshaft due to spun bearing. I had to order a remanufactured crankshaft with matching bearings...big loss.
I hate having to haul the engine more than once unless it's doing something major.
ATLP boy, are you keeping the automatic if you plan on motor working?
I had 3 cars spin bearings on me already. All cars were bought used and supposedly "rebuilt".
I ended up having to pull and swap with another used engine. My current car has a scored crankshaft due to spun bearing. I had to order a remanufactured crankshaft with matching bearings...big loss.
I hate having to haul the engine more than once unless it's doing something major.
ATLP boy, are you keeping the automatic if you plan on motor working?