keantoken

My oil light stays on 2-3 seconds after starting even when the car is warm. If it's not the oil filter than maybe it could be loose rod bearings draining oil from the galleys quickly.

keantoken

I replaced the belt side engine mount. I found a way to get it in without removing a bunch of stuff. The old one was in two pieces and a side damper was missing. I don't know in what conditions this engine mount actually ends up being used, but it must be important since it was torn apart. I can't say I notice much of a difference in driving though. The vibration is still there in reverse and hasn't really changed.

keantoken

I don't think I have heard the knocking noise since I changed the engine mount. I should find some quiet conditions to be sure.

keantoken

Today I had to get out of someone's way and ended up squealing the tires. Well, I know it's possible now.

I and getting code p1457 for evap system leak, The solenoid in the engine compartment is noisy, could that be the cause?

Davius

Check gas cap first. Take off, tighten properly, clear code and see if it sticks... worked for my p1457

keantoken

I took off the gas cap and looked at the seal. The sealing marks showed the seal had actually been pushed out. Since I got a new tethered gas cap, I compared the seal with the old one. The new seal seems expanded and was larger, so I swapped seals. I took it for a drive and the engine light hasn't come on yet.

keantoken

Thinking about this in entirely too much detail, I noticed the gas cap seal was loaded with graphite. It is meant to be a dry seal. So if you add a fuel additive that is oily, you may get some on the sealing surface and then the seal gets crushed too much or popped out before the gas cap clicks due to the reduced resistance. Something similar happens with bolts, if you lubricate a bolt you may overtorque it because you have changed the expected turning resistance. This is one reason you are not supposed to put oil on lugnuts. So I guess, wipe off your filler tube after adding seafoam or whatever if you got it on the lip. But that is just another crazy conspiracy theory...

Davius

Good maintenance habits include wiping/cleaning and lubrication(where necessary) of seals, so not so crazy lol. I've noticed problems pop up with non-OEM gas caps (buddy's TL-S HATES his lock-cap), but it sounds like your seal switch worked like a charm.

keantoken

I finally put in a bottle of Techron and the engine seems to be behaving different. I put seafoam in last time, but it didn't seem to make any difference at all.

With the Techron I dumped the bottle in at 1/4 tank, and it sat overnight before I made the trip to put gas in. You could say it was a more concentrated treatment than Seafoam initially, but the effect seemed to start a few days after filling the tank.

The engine seems to be running quieter and I feel like I have better control with the pedal at low speeds.

keantoken

The car vibrates when braking. I don't feel pulsation in the brake pedal or the steering wheel. Speed doesn't seem to matter.

Davius

Hope its not the dreaded warped rotors. Might just be the ABS kicking on

keantoken

I took the right front wheel off. The brake rubs on part of the rotor, on both sides. However I feel no pulsation in the brake pedal, so I don't think it is warped. I think it got overheated from a hard stop, which forms carbides in the rotor. Possible solutions to this are to get it turned, or to just scour it with garnet sandpaper. Hopefully it is just minor overheating and it is only a surface layer. I can check rotor thickness with a micrometer.

It's possible that specific brake pads or rotors won't suffer from this issue as badly, but I don't know what those might be.

keantoken

False alarm, I went back outside and then the rubbing was gone. Maybe it was just because the brakes were left in that position on the rotor and there was some brake material stuck to the rotor. The micrometer didn't find anything funny. And braking is smooth when cold.

It could be the roads are rippling due to the heat and it's just really bad at the moment. On some roads I know it's not just me because the tire marks show ripples in the road. But, the vibration only appears when braking on these roads, not while cruising.

But then the question remains why the vibration is enough to be disturbing when braking. I didn't find any play in the right wheel. I may try compressing the coil spring to check for play in other components.


The engine light came on again. I was fully expecting the catalyst inefficiency code, but no, it is the evap leak code. But this time, I took off the gas cap and there was plenty of suction. This was several hours after being driven, and there was still vacuum in the tank. So I don't know why it is giving that code.

Davius

Is it an OEM gas cap?

keantoken

It's a MotoRad cap. Same as the cap that came with it, except for the tether.

Davius

I'd say stick the original back on if possible and see if it still throws code to eliminate gas cap. This is the same cap you swapped seals? Maybe something isn't sitting right after you filled up... If you are certain it isn't gas cap, might be time for a smoke machine.

keantoken

I took off the right rear wheel to replace a wheel stud. the brakes slip at one point on the rotor and this didn't go away at any point. I noticed the caliper was pretty stiff. I regreased the slide pins and positioned them to wear on fresh surfaces. When I change the brakes I will want to get new pins as well.

keantoken

Today I thought about the evap leak and the noisy purge solenoid. There is a puffing sound under the car that coincides with the solenoid clicking. When I realized it was this and not an exhaust leak, I just figured it might be normal to hear some noise near the fuel tank when the purge valve is cycling. However now I wonder if I can find the evap leak by tracking down the noise. It doesn't seem to be coming from the evap canister area though.