Cheap cold air intake system
Cheap cold air intake system
I recently took the entire air intake system out of my 2003 TL-S, including the resonator. Beforehand, I had purchased the same K&N cone air filter used by AEM for their cold air intake system. I took it to Home Depot and bought some PVC pipe that matched the inside diameter of the filter's rubber coupler. I also bought a rubber coupler used to connect plumbing pipes. After cutting the pipe to size, I secured the K&N filter to one end with a hose clamp. Then, I slipped the rubber coupler over the other end and pushed the assembly through the bottom opening of the air intake box, where I secured the pipe/rubber coupler to the neck of the intake box's rubber boot with another hose clamp. Then, I carefully lowered the K&N filter/pipe through the opening at the bottom of the space formerly occupied by the resonator, followed by the intake box. I then put the intake box cover back on and tightened every bolt. Also, I cut out that little plastic plate covering the hole just below the left foglight. Now, I have a totally stock-looking cold air intake system for about $50!
No pics or dyno results, sorry. The PVC won't melt or burn because it's in a relatively cool area, in the left fender well below the air box. The resonator is also made of plastic and there has never been a problem with heat. I noticed a slight improvement in acceleration, especially at low RPM's, and a nice growl when VTEC kicks in. I did the mod for the sound rather than for the performance gain. Now, when I install headers....
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Removing the resonator is fairly easy. You don't have to remove the front bumper as some people have done in the past. Here are some tips:
1. Unscrew the two air filter box cover bolts and move the cover
out of the way.
2. Unscrew the two bolts holding the air filter box in place and
remove the box.
3. Raise the front end and remove the left front wheel.
4. Unscrew the few bolts attaching the rubber wheel well guard
to the fender and pull it back toward the rear of the wheel well.
5. Remove the bolts (there are three, I think) holding the
resonator assembly in place. The assembly consists of two
pieces: a box which sits just below the air filter box, and the
resonator baffle. One bolt is kind of tough to see and remove. I
had to feel for it and remove it without seeing it.
6. Remove the resonator assembly, re-position the wheel well
guard, put the wheel back on, lower the car and you're done.
You'll hear a hissing sound at idle and a roar when VTEC kicks in. There isn't a noticable power gain unless you ditch the stock filter and install an aftermarket cone filter below the air box, in the fender well. The difference in power will be most noticable in hot weather , because the intake charge will be much cooler than the stock setup (the resonator draws air in from the engine bay).
1. Unscrew the two air filter box cover bolts and move the cover
out of the way.
2. Unscrew the two bolts holding the air filter box in place and
remove the box.
3. Raise the front end and remove the left front wheel.
4. Unscrew the few bolts attaching the rubber wheel well guard
to the fender and pull it back toward the rear of the wheel well.
5. Remove the bolts (there are three, I think) holding the
resonator assembly in place. The assembly consists of two
pieces: a box which sits just below the air filter box, and the
resonator baffle. One bolt is kind of tough to see and remove. I
had to feel for it and remove it without seeing it.
6. Remove the resonator assembly, re-position the wheel well
guard, put the wheel back on, lower the car and you're done.
You'll hear a hissing sound at idle and a roar when VTEC kicks in. There isn't a noticable power gain unless you ditch the stock filter and install an aftermarket cone filter below the air box, in the fender well. The difference in power will be most noticable in hot weather , because the intake charge will be much cooler than the stock setup (the resonator draws air in from the engine bay).
Dude here installed a home made one just like did and it looked all burned up and melty lookin. Needless to say, he threw it away and finally purchased an AEM. I don't know what the heck was wrong but it made me purchase an AEM for my Civic and I'll do the same for the TLS. They don't cost that much.
Originally posted by The Acclude
PVC makes a poisonus gas when burning.
PVC makes a poisonus gas when burning.
Hold up... what you are saying is that you go through all this work for a $50 (not including labour, of course -how much is your time worth?) home made, non DOT approved, non CARB certified, potentially toxic, not meant for cars, PVC CAI and install it on a $30K+ vehicle...
DROP the CRACK PIPE RIGHT this SECOND!!!
DROP the CRACK PIPE RIGHT this SECOND!!!
Originally posted by stiletto
Hold up... what you are saying is that you go through all this work for a $50 (not including labour, of course -how much is your time worth?) home made, non DOT approved, non CARB certified, potentially toxic, not meant for cars, PVC CAI and install it on a $30K+ vehicle...
DROP the CRACK PIPE RIGHT this SECOND!!!
Hold up... what you are saying is that you go through all this work for a $50 (not including labour, of course -how much is your time worth?) home made, non DOT approved, non CARB certified, potentially toxic, not meant for cars, PVC CAI and install it on a $30K+ vehicle...
DROP the CRACK PIPE RIGHT this SECOND!!!
... I couldn't agree more. Not a smart move. Just pony up the additional $130 or so and get an AEM. The odds are that you aren't even producing any gains... just making more noise.One of the guys on acura-cl.com, who is a flat out genious and has done many custom mods to his car tried to make his own intake out of the same material you'll find on an AEM or Injen. He made it with less bends.. etc... really did his R&D on it. Took him a few weeks from design to product. Needless to say he dynoed it and showed no gains at all... so he took it off. Now... if that did not work.... no way in hell is a Home Depot special going to work. I'd take it off ASAP before you damage the car. I'll give you credit for trying.... but you're better off without it.....
Forgot to add.. if you want a totally stock looking intake... pony up the coin and get an Icebox....
Relax guys,
I installed my own cold air intake system mainly for the noise, not for performance gains. The PVC and the K&N cone filter are in the left fender well, below the air box. The engine bay looks completely stock. The PVC has not and never will burn/melt because the temperature inside the left fender well is well below the engine bay temps (you can always substitute the PVC pipe with a steel one or wrap the PVC with header heat tape). I even cut out that little plastic cap covering the hole below the left foglight. That creates a positive airflow into the left fender well and helps reduce intake temps even more. Think about it next time you're driving your car in hot weather.
As for the setup not CARB-certified, It will only take me about 5 minutes to put the stock air filter back in the air box before I take the car in for a smog test. I don't have to put the resonator back in because it has nothing to do with emission control. The inspector will see nothing out of the ordinary when he looks under the hood.
I installed my own cold air intake system mainly for the noise, not for performance gains. The PVC and the K&N cone filter are in the left fender well, below the air box. The engine bay looks completely stock. The PVC has not and never will burn/melt because the temperature inside the left fender well is well below the engine bay temps (you can always substitute the PVC pipe with a steel one or wrap the PVC with header heat tape). I even cut out that little plastic cap covering the hole below the left foglight. That creates a positive airflow into the left fender well and helps reduce intake temps even more. Think about it next time you're driving your car in hot weather.
As for the setup not CARB-certified, It will only take me about 5 minutes to put the stock air filter back in the air box before I take the car in for a smog test. I don't have to put the resonator back in because it has nothing to do with emission control. The inspector will see nothing out of the ordinary when he looks under the hood.
Originally posted by TLSing
Relax guys,
I installed my own cold air intake system mainly for the noise, not for performance gains....
Relax guys,
I installed my own cold air intake system mainly for the noise, not for performance gains....
I'd want to see track times before mucking around - the resonator actually can help midrange torque in most cars. If you race your car and keep it above 5000 rpm, some of these open element designs can be a benefit. I say jury is still out. God forbid you pull in significant amounts of water though.
props to you TLSing. I guess all these haters are hating the fact that they paid over $200 for an AEM/Injen name on their piece of pipe while you made the same shet for $50. As for the looks you can always paint it black or something. Pretty sure it's stronger than the icebox too.
O BTW stiletto it's not a $30k car.
TLSing please make a DIY!
O BTW stiletto it's not a $30k car.
TLSing please make a DIY!
for the fast cheap way to make a cai- remove the lower intake resonator box (see DIY section)
put a good air filter in the stock box- done
up thru 01s can cut the left foglight place open for max ram air effect.
having a large air storage place for the engine to draw from beats a 3-4" tube anyday- per my insider tech at acura dealer
when you remove the res box- the 4 inch hole on the bottem of the filter box is now wide open. In addition- it beats the cai because it sits up so high you cannot get water into it- not unless the water is up to the top of the doors,
in which case hydrolock is the least of your concerns...as you get washed downstream or rescued ..naked... from a tree or the cars roof...very embarressing since the news choppers are always there for that one!!
put a good air filter in the stock box- done
up thru 01s can cut the left foglight place open for max ram air effect.
having a large air storage place for the engine to draw from beats a 3-4" tube anyday- per my insider tech at acura dealer
when you remove the res box- the 4 inch hole on the bottem of the filter box is now wide open. In addition- it beats the cai because it sits up so high you cannot get water into it- not unless the water is up to the top of the doors,
in which case hydrolock is the least of your concerns...as you get washed downstream or rescued ..naked... from a tree or the cars roof...very embarressing since the news choppers are always there for that one!!
you know you guys need to give the guy some props i myself cut the bottem of my factory air box and will be goin to lowes soon and will be using the heavy duty plastic electric conduit pipe to make my own cold air box and btw if you think bout it the factory air tube is rubber and also there used to be a company called ICE MAN air intakes the company used a poly made plastic for all there cold and short ram intake so before you hate on some one you should try it yourself instead of being a follower try building something instead just going and buying it
props to you TLSing. I guess all these haters are hating the fact that they paid over $200 for an AEM/Injen name on their piece of pipe while you made the same shet for $50. As for the looks you can always paint it black or something. Pretty sure it's stronger than the icebox too.
O BTW stiletto it's not a $30k car.
TLSing please make a DIY!
O BTW stiletto it's not a $30k car.
TLSing please make a DIY!

say what?
in post 27 which was posted in 2008, this guy is saying its not a $30K car which for he is wrong because back in 2003 it was over $30k. i showed a website for the MSRP to prove that it was over $30k.
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