pjoseph

Is changing the brake fluid something you can do yourself, if yes does anyone have a link on how to go about doing it.
Thanks

yankeefan11235

Yes, you can bleed the brake line to replace the brake fluid. Just make sure you use the proper DOT for your car (DOT 3-4). Also, make sure that after your done bleeding the brakes that you do not have a squishy brake pedal when you apply pressure, that means their is air in the line and could compromise your braking. It should stiffen after a pump or so.

http://www.teamscr.com/brakes.htm

01tl4tl

search in here for flush brake fluid or bleed brakes for full info , myself and others have written very detailed post

You only get air if you let the master cylinder get empty- if you top it off after each wheel is done thats not going to happen!
Easy job- requires 2 people to do it best

BAPE head

while your at it, change to better quality brake fluid

Motul 5.1 FTW!!!

01tl4tl

Valvoline Synthetic 6 bucks for the qt you need
available at any parts store

Track days? Motul right on!

pjoseph

thanks for the info I appreciate it.

pjoseph

I am not sure where to start with bleeding some people say start left rear others say front rear ??
Also what size in diameter do i need for the plastic tube to connect to the bleeder screw??
thanks again

yankeefan11235

If I remember correctly, the way our brakes need to be bleed starts from the left front (driver) and work your way clockwise meaning right front is next with the left rear being last. On many sites it states to start on the line farthest from the master cylinder but on I've read plenty about how our cars need to be done with the left front first. Im not sure what plastic tube to connect to the bleed screw, one that just fits snuggly around it will do, again not sure what size.

As far as brake fluid is concerned. ATE super blue FTW! (if not the best, its definitely up there)

01tl4tl

hose size is 1/4 or 3/8 best I can remember- and the special wrench $8 from parts store
with 8/10 mm closed ends protect the bleeder valves (can we say nipple in here?)
from potential damage by ordinary wrench. And its dual sized ends will have the right size to do the friends car who helped with yours!!

The order is
LF driver front then clockwise
LF RF RR LR
Do whole thing twice to be safe
If only changing fluid and not installing new brakes-
Do 2 ABS stops- if pedal stays firm- all is well
if pedal goes soft- you somehow managed to get air in the system
go back and re-bleed and all will be well

I say~ if not putting new brakes on~ because you
do not want to take new pads and rotors to ABS in their break in period- very bad

pjoseph

01tl4tl
Thanks for the responce

So you are saying do one or the other, change the rotors and brakes break them in then change the fluid, or change the fluid test the brakes then change the rotors and pads. Is this correct.
thanks again.

01tl4tl

In order to remove any contamination and eliminate the potential of backwashing crud when you compress the caliper piston- I personally- would do the flush/bleed the brakes first- do the 2 stops using ABS to make sure all is well, then do the rotors and pads change

They should have a procedure listed in the directions unless el cheapo parts
Most hi performance brakes want a series of slow downs- NOT stops!!!
to heat the pads and rotors and do their break in

It takes about 500 miles to bed in most brakes- and no ABS stops during then please!
So do the fluid first and its done

PM me if you need more info- state brand and type of rotors and pads