I think I'm going to get my brake fluid flushed/changed. I will most likely get SS brakelines at the same time. The brake pedal is getting a little soft.

I was wondering would it be beneficial or efficient to replace the pads and rotors at the same time? I have 45k miles. Currently, the pads and rotors are fine.

 

I think if you havent flushed your brake system in at all then you should, I do it every 2 years or 30k miles and I felt the difference. I have yet to get the brakelines though.

 

If your pads/rotors arent in need of replacement there is no real reason to do it at this time. A simple brake flush will help out alot. If you put the SS lines on you should also feel a difference

 

If you're still running the stock brake setup, then you really don't need to get the stainless steel braided lines. Pads and rotors make the biggest difference, and SS lines complement that with the extra bit of crisp response.

So yeah, if you're planning on changing the pads and the rotors, then by all means, get the SS lines. But if you're doing the lines, and thinking whether you should do rotors and pads, too, then you're thinking backwards.

If they are fine, then just ride 'em out. When you need replacements, that's when you should decide whether you want to upgrade or not. Why toss out perfectly good brakes, unless your priority is to upgrade?

Bleeding the lines is enough sometimes, but if it's been a long time, then a full flush would work out better. Go with Ate Super Blue. It's blue, so you know when the lines have been flushed and replaced with the new fluid, plus it has much higher wet/dry boiling points. It hasn't boiled on me once yet.

 

Thanks, PA. I was thinking that I would eventually upgrade brakes, but would like to get my money's worth out of these first. I didn't know if it would be easier to install the brake lines w/the brake flush.

I'm just trying to plan ahead. Can the brake lines be installed without flushing the brake fluid? Should I just wait to do lines/pads/rotors at the same time?

 

When you replace the brake lines, they will be open to the atmosphere. That means you must flush the entire system after replacing brake lines. Same story with calipers.

But when you're only doing rotors and/or pads, you don't have to.

In my opinion, wait 'til you have everything and do it all at once -- pads, rotors, lines, new fluid. This way, you will enjoy and notice the maximum benefits simultaneously.

 

Pure Ad,
What is the capacity of the brake system. I couldn't find the ATE super blue except on-line, and I have no idea on what quantity to order.

 

I went thru 1 1/2, 32fl oz bottles doing a complete flush job on mine.

 

Thanks. Do any of the national chains carry the ATE Super blue in stock?

 

Never seen it before

 

What type and Brand do you use on your car?

 

crap, i used like half the bottle of those tiny ones from honda, time to redo it

 

http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=51

I did it till it was all new fluid coming out.

 

is there a DIY for flushing the brake fluid or bleeding the brake system because i can feel that my brakes are getting soft

 

I went through almost a liter of Ate Super Blue to replace the fluid in the entire system. I don't know the exact capacity, but obviously it's less than a liter.

 

i would also like to know.. i need one. if it's hard, i'll have to bring it to a mechanic, if it's easy, i'll do it myself. i have replaced the pads and rotors on the TL before.. is flushing any harder?

 

its not hard at all, you have 3 options:

get a friend and have him pump the pedal 3 times and hold it down as you open and close the bleeder on the caliper. often check the master cyliner to make sure its full, NEVER let it get low.

you can get speed bleeders from russell, about $30 shipped to you from summitt racing, you undo your bleeders and screw these in. this eliminates needing the friend, you just open the bleeder, keep pumping the brakes and then close the bleeder when done.

or you can get a mityvac, maunal or one that hooks up to an aircompressor. i have both, obviously the air compressor is the easierst, but it basically eliminates the friend again, you just attach the hose to the bleeder valve, open the valve, and use the pump to draw the fluid.


again, always check the MC to make sure its full.

 

The conventional method says to bleed the brakes by starting at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder, but for the TL you are supposed to start at the front left wheel then go clockwise.

 

i've done it both ways and it didn't make a difference.

 

is there a more indepth DIY, i would really like to get this done, maybe sometime in the next couple of weeks... my rear pads are almost gone.

 

I ordered the speed bleeders from summit for 9.88 a pair. I will be replacing rotors, brake lines, and pads all the way around this weekend...If the stuff gets to me on time from fedex. I can do a DIY on all of it if somenone wants it.

 

Found out any Porsche Dealer should carry the ATE Super blue, as it is the standard for Porsche.

Incidentally my Acura dealership carries a few liters of the ATE Type200 gold for the NSX topups.

 

Manual brake bleeding is the most common method of bleeding brakes; however, you will need to enlist the help of an assistant. With your assistant sitting in the driver's seat, repeat the following six steps a number of times on each brake until you are sure there is no air trapped in the system. Use a narrow block of wood behind the pedal to prevent it from travelling all the way to the floor. Lastly, place a three foot piece of vinyl hose on the end of the bleeder screw to direct old fluid into a plastic container.

1. Instruct your assistant to pump the brake pedal for thirty seconds
2. Instruct your assistant to press and hold the brake pedal firmly
3. Open a bleeder screw and let the air and old fluid escape
4. Close the bleeder screw
5. Instruct your assistant to release the brake pedal
6. Wait fifteen seconds

Repete 2 thru 6 till all fluid is the the desired fluid.

According to the service manual the following sequence should be followed:

1st - Left Front
2nd - Right Front
3rd - Right Rear
4th - Left Rear

Repeat the bleeding procedure for each wheel in the sequence listed until bubbles no longer appear.

 

optomos - yes please do a DIY

fsttyms1 - procedure sounds easy, but a little more info would be better, i wanna be sure i'm doing everything correctly.. especially cause they are the brakes...

 

there really isnt much more to it than that.

Get a wrench that fits the bleeder valve, a piece of hose that fits snugly over the valve and a catch can (clear plastic bottle works best to see thru) wit a inch or so of fluid in it to start. Tell your friend to apply the brake and hold. as he/she is doing that open the the bleeder valve slightly to allow fluid and air out. Once the fluid has been pushed out close the valve and tell friend to let go of brake pedal. Wait a bit and repete. Every few pumps check the master cyl to make sure that it doesnt run out of fluid (you can keep the brake cap off)

 

When you need em replace em both!

 

i'm replacing my rear pads this weekend, and will also be changing the fluid,..

my question is will i have to be taking the pads and stuff off the front too to change the fluid?

plus, i don't have stands, i only could lift the front or rear one at a time. not all four tires.

 

You dont remove any thing to change brake fluid. I would highly recomend getting jack stands. not only is it safer to work on your car with them, it will vastly speed up the brake bleeding.

 

Sorry if this is a stupid question but I have never done this before and may want to some day. How do you know for sure there is no air in your break lines? I have heard if there is air your breaks might not respond when you press down on them.

 

If you have air in the lines you will typically get a real spongy brake pedal feel or your pedal will go to the flor easy.

When bleeding you bleed till no more air bubbles come out

 

if you go for an upgrade is it necessary or just recommended to change the brake lines?

I'm about to run the rotora slotted rotors w/ H2 ceramic setup for the front.

 

No its not necessary

 

thanks.

I'll put it into consideration for the future then.

 

This is going to be my second time changing pads and rotors, but my first time bleeding my brakes so please bear with my ignorance.

First, should I bleed my brakes, then change rotors and pads...vice versa or does it even matter?

Also do I add new brake fluid before I start bleeding or after each time I reclose the bleeder valve?

 

Change pads first. Then with a baster or something remove as much fluid from teh master cylinder as possible (not necessary though) and start bleeding. Check the master cyl often and top it off to make sure you dont get too low and draw in air.

 

If your not replacing the brake hoses, flushing the brake fluid, or reparing a caliper you don't have to bleed your system. Just use a baster and remove brake fluid from the master cylinder down to the bottom line, close it then use the C-clamp to push the caliper piston back. Do the same for all wheels.

1. Remove wheels
2. Remove calipers
3. Remove rotors
4. Remove pads
5. Push piston back into caliper
6. Put new rotors on
7. Put new pads on and put calipers back on rotors

If you have to bleed the system then you do it last....before putting wheels back on.

I'll post pics when I get home tonight.

 

After all that is done, if I am putting on rotora slotted nd EBC greenstuff do I have to bed them in immediately or can I drive normally on them for the first 500 miles or so?

The reason I ask is the last set i put on I bedded them in immediatly, no normally drive time, and they sha-a-a-ake like a mofo, and I would like to do it right so this set lasts longer than a year.

Is it necessary to use a torque wrench when tightening or would the standard lug wrench work, if not do you know where I may be able to rent on for the time being?

 

install all the rotors and pads first. Then bleed the system (it will help no matter if your installing lines or not) then bleed the system. Then drive the car for 300-500 EASY miles trying not to brake hard. Then if if you feel like it bed them in. Not right away. its a fast way to warp them

 

thanks for the info much appreciated!

 

You bed them in from the start. No locking the brakes (ABS deployment), no continous hard braking, don't let the pads stay on the rotor after prolonged braking at a stop light even if you have put the car in neutral or park for the first 500 miles. With the Satisfied pads I installed they said that the pads would be "fully" seated @ 2000 miles. EBC pads might be different though.