Cant figure this tapping noise out and its really getting to me
04-06-2011, 02:14 PM
#41
Senior Moderator
Rod bearings always get worse as the engine heats up.
Rod bearings get worse with load on the engine.
Valvetrain doesn't care about load but rpm can make changes in the noise.
Temperature sometimes does affect valvetrain noise and sometimes not depending on what the cause is.
A bent exhaust can make a sucking sound at the tail pipe or a small backfire. Bent intake can pop back through the intake.
Too much valve clearance will be noisier when cold. Too little valve clearance will get noiser when hot.
Before you tear into your engine, a leakdown should be performed even if compression results look good. If it passes the leakdown it nearly eliminates a bent valve.
There's always a chance you have a hurt piston which *usually* is worse when cold and gets louder under load but not always.
Rod bearings get worse with load on the engine.
Valvetrain doesn't care about load but rpm can make changes in the noise.
Temperature sometimes does affect valvetrain noise and sometimes not depending on what the cause is.
A bent exhaust can make a sucking sound at the tail pipe or a small backfire. Bent intake can pop back through the intake.
Too much valve clearance will be noisier when cold. Too little valve clearance will get noiser when hot.
Before you tear into your engine, a leakdown should be performed even if compression results look good. If it passes the leakdown it nearly eliminates a bent valve.
There's always a chance you have a hurt piston which *usually* is worse when cold and gets louder under load but not always.
04-06-2011, 08:14 PM
#44
Team Owner
How are you liking the NT05s? Don't forget to heat cycle them a few times.
04-06-2011, 08:18 PM
#45
Will have video up, later.
*edit.
I havent driven on them yet, well the first day.
Initial impression is that it makes for a very smooth ride. Hell, after riding bald I bet any new tire would feel smooth.
And I did notice how it felt when the tires were cold.
*edit.
I havent driven on them yet, well the first day.
Initial impression is that it makes for a very smooth ride. Hell, after riding bald I bet any new tire would feel smooth.
And I did notice how it felt when the tires were cold.
Last edited by justnspace; 04-06-2011 at 08:24 PM.
04-06-2011, 08:50 PM
#49
Team Owner
What I said earlier applies to both of you.
My guess is that you slightly bent a valve, it took out all of your clearance and once it gets hot and there's no clearance, it makes noise. You'll likely end up with a misfire and then a completely burned valve over time.
There are still some questions that need to be answered. Does it change with rpm or load? I've heard when a cylinder or two gets stuck on the big lobe it's noisy all the time. Did you verify that the middle rocker moves freely?
My guess is that you slightly bent a valve, it took out all of your clearance and once it gets hot and there's no clearance, it makes noise. You'll likely end up with a misfire and then a completely burned valve over time.
There are still some questions that need to be answered. Does it change with rpm or load? I've heard when a cylinder or two gets stuck on the big lobe it's noisy all the time. Did you verify that the middle rocker moves freely?
04-06-2011, 09:22 PM
#51
Senior Moderator
04-07-2011, 12:19 AM
#53
It makes a tapping noise at 1500 rpm.
I need a new gasket for it and my front header.
04-07-2011, 12:21 AM
#54
04-07-2011, 06:27 AM
#57
The valve train noise is normal except for the single pronounced tapping. I just have the camera like a couple inches away from the engine. I also think that I have a manifold exhaust leak because a few times in the past when i have started my car with the hood open I could see a little white smoke come from the back manifold. All bolts are tight on exhaust mani. and this even happened when I was using different headers with a different gasket.
04-07-2011, 10:06 AM
#59
Senior Moderator
The valve train noise is normal except for the single pronounced tapping. I just have the camera like a couple inches away from the engine. I also think that I have a manifold exhaust leak because a few times in the past when i have started my car with the hood open I could see a little white smoke come from the back manifold. All bolts are tight on exhaust mani. and this even happened when I was using different headers with a different gasket.
04-07-2011, 10:26 AM
#61
in general: if exhaust was removed or replaced--as it would be to do the head gaskets,
after ~500 miles you need to go back and retorque the bolts
they tend to loosen slightly as the metals go thru heat cycles and mesh together
Thats source of major problems
if you think its an exhaust gasket and want to verify--apply seafoam spray thru TB- the heavy concentration method at 2000 rpm- smoke will pour from any leak in the exhaust
after ~500 miles you need to go back and retorque the bolts
they tend to loosen slightly as the metals go thru heat cycles and mesh together
Thats source of major problems
if you think its an exhaust gasket and want to verify--apply seafoam spray thru TB- the heavy concentration method at 2000 rpm- smoke will pour from any leak in the exhaust
04-07-2011, 10:32 AM
#62
posters: what tool exactly did you use to adjust valves--a go-nogo,, or a standard feeler guage you have to guess whats 4 lbs of drag on?
What specs did you use for intake and exhaust?
was the engine dead cold-overnight cold?
ANY heat in the valves will change as you are working- clearance differs with temp
Tip: always go back and recheck every valve after full engine first setting- a few may be off as your technique improved,, and tightening the locknut often changes the setting
always ck again after locknut is secure
What specs did you use for intake and exhaust?
was the engine dead cold-overnight cold?
ANY heat in the valves will change as you are working- clearance differs with temp
Tip: always go back and recheck every valve after full engine first setting- a few may be off as your technique improved,, and tightening the locknut often changes the setting
always ck again after locknut is secure
04-07-2011, 12:32 PM
#63
posters: what tool exactly did you use to adjust valves--a go-nogo,, or a standard feeler guage you have to guess whats 4 lbs of drag on?
What specs did you use for intake and exhaust?
was the engine dead cold-overnight cold?
ANY heat in the valves will change as you are working- clearance differs with temp
Tip: always go back and recheck every valve after full engine first setting- a few may be off as your technique improved,, and tightening the locknut often changes the setting
always ck again after locknut is secure
What specs did you use for intake and exhaust?
was the engine dead cold-overnight cold?
ANY heat in the valves will change as you are working- clearance differs with temp
Tip: always go back and recheck every valve after full engine first setting- a few may be off as your technique improved,, and tightening the locknut often changes the setting
always ck again after locknut is secure
04-07-2011, 03:47 PM
#64
then I would suspect the tension was wrong on the setting--unless you are very experienced with feeler guage `drag spec` how did you determine that?
or did you adjust till they were tight on the guage? that would explain overtight
do with a go- no go and be certain its exact
or did you adjust till they were tight on the guage? that would explain overtight
do with a go- no go and be certain its exact
04-08-2011, 02:34 PM
#65
then I would suspect the tension was wrong on the setting--unless you are very experienced with feeler guage `drag spec` how did you determine that?
or did you adjust till they were tight on the guage? that would explain overtight
do with a go- no go and be certain its exact
or did you adjust till they were tight on the guage? that would explain overtight
do with a go- no go and be certain its exact
This is what I used to do a valve adjustment. Used 8 on intake. Not to tight but tight enough a 10 was hard to get in. then the same on exhaust except just went by feeling of drag with a 12.
So I think im gonna just pull the heads and change what ever exhaust valves are bent with the exhaust valves I have from my old j32a1.Considering the exhaust valves are the same size. If any intakes valves are bent I will buy new ones. When doing this process what else should I do. IM already going to get new head gaskets and head bolts. Should I buy all new valve seals also? Anything else? Also I will buy a new set of go no go set to do valve adjustment.
04-08-2011, 05:32 PM
#67
we suspect you have bent the edge/lip where an exhaust valve seals against the head in closed position
that wont show visually on top unless it was way off and ready to pop out if the engine
rare to have an intake get bent in a broken timing belt situation- which this resembles.
the exhaust is the one in danger of piston contact
YES on getting a go- no go- you will find it much easier.
correctly set a valve with it, then go back and see what you regular feeler guage has for drag feel, so you know the muscle memory for it
THEN you can use the regular ones with more accuracy if still desired (or throw them away)
that wont show visually on top unless it was way off and ready to pop out if the engine
rare to have an intake get bent in a broken timing belt situation- which this resembles.
the exhaust is the one in danger of piston contact
YES on getting a go- no go- you will find it much easier.
correctly set a valve with it, then go back and see what you regular feeler guage has for drag feel, so you know the muscle memory for it
THEN you can use the regular ones with more accuracy if still desired (or throw them away)
04-11-2011, 12:50 PM
#70
Senior Moderator
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-116/jw11-build-j35a2-powered-mk1-mr2-786804/
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