Seikoja

time to ask the gurus of acurazine their opinions...i have a 99 tl that comes w the factory oil cooler...my question is to u all now is if upgrade the oil cooler n switch to motul or eneos tranny fluid a long w a engine damper, do you guys think i will be able to hold 300 n/a pound feet of torque?...if u guys think thats that enough to avoid breaking the tranny...please give ur opinions...hoping some a little brainstorming will lead to a solution

phee

iTrader: (5)

the power isnt what matters. its adequate lubrication of the clutch packs.

switching fluid to something thats friction modified will wear the packs quicker

ANC297

iTrader: (2)

x2 on the clutch packs.
Lmao at the avy, phee

Seikoja

i thought oils like motul n eneos would increase the transmissions longevity...making lit ast longer? thats y companies like royal purple come out w oils that protect better than factory?

Seikoja

what do u mean by x2 on the clutch packs?

niju321

he means he agrees with phee that the main concern is premature wear of the clutch packs in an already weak transmission.

Seikoja

i dont see how upgrading to a better lubricant will cause the tranny to wear down

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

The 4-speed in the 99 did not have the clutch pack issue like the 5-speed.

Stick with Honda Z1 fluid. Never heard anyone having a "fluid" problem running OEM fluid.

Seikoja

it cant be a bad thing to upgrade the oil n the size of the cooler...i just want to kno if anyone can recommend anythin else for added strength n durability...please guys im just tryin to brainstorm...people w tranny expertise ur help will be very much appreciated...thank you

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

other fluids do not have enough anti-foaming additives like the honda fluid, so they will puke themselves eventually when not using ahonda atf fluid

but yes, an additional cooler is mandatory, if wanting to put additional power through the tranny, the additional heat from the added power will kill the tranny sooner if that extra heat is not gottin rid of

fsttyms1

Explain to me how you plan on getting 300 n.a. ft/lbs of torque out of your motor.

And like others said, Fluid isnt the problem with the trans. GETTING fluid to the correct parts is the problem. Most other fluids like stated above dont have the same anti foaming properties that the honda design needs and could cause more damage than good. Amsoil may be the only fluid i would try if i were to not put honda fluid in.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

and even quality fluids/expensive (aka valvoline maxlife full synthetic) will eventually foam up too much and just all come out the vent tube, basically leaving the tranny so empty that it can not even hold the gears anymore, and f*** did it smeel horrible inside of the tranny, but got refilled with honda atf and changed out again, and has been fine for the last 15k though

adamlee05

How exactly do you think you're going to pull 300 lb/ft of torque without boost? Getting that with nitrous is going to shit on your engine.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

not really if tuned correctly, and building the engine for it also helps too, but yeah 300 ft lbs of torque on NA is not exactly an easy task though

adamlee05

if all you're getting is 300lbs after "building" an engine for it, you just wasted time and money.

The only way you're going to get around 300lbs torque NA with a base 3.2 is nitrous, unless you have gobs of money to waste developing your own parts. 3.5 type-S builds with 11:1 don't even break 300lb/ft of torque.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

never said that you have to build an engine for it, if all your going for is 300 ft lbs of torque, the stock engine should suffice with the correct tuning and such, so :dick:


btw: Rajca was doing like a 150 shot on a completely stock engine, so basically 300 ft lbs of torgue being produced

adamlee05

Typical forum troll posting "tuning" posts like that's always the answer. Its not, this isn't a B18 forum, we have J's.

Head over to v6 performance and wise yourself on these engines some.

btw: what Rajca was doing was playing chicken with his engine, even more his tranny. Ever tried to "tune" an engine with nitrous? Try that with our ECU, and tell me what happens. Or go out and spend $1200 on an AEM standalone, and cry when it wont tune correctly for nitrous, again.

Hugs from the ":dick:"

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

but we also have a bigger engine, so they can take a larger shot with more ease then a b18, without blowing

and yes rajca was playing chicken with his engine, but he also did not really care if he blew it, it was going to be rebuilt anyways, so might as well see what the motor could take

adamlee05

Exactly he didn't care. this guy seems to.

"bigger engine"?...sigh. Back to this tuning thing that you misunderstood. HOW DO YOU PLAN TO TUNE A J SERIES ECU CORRECTLY FOR NITROUS?

"...omg...I'm running ultra lean. Shit, I can't turn my trim up enough! Damnit...detonation!... But at least the tranny is ok!"

Have fun with this thread, point the guy to your tuning guides after he reveals his plan for 300NA torque. I want 330NA HP from a base 3.2 Also.

-PS: I know nothing about engines or transmissions.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

a wet nitrous kit adds the fuel with the nitrous, so no additional fuel needed from the ecu, only thing that would be needed would be to retard the timing some when you are doing bigger shoots, but even then only needs to be pulled when the system is armed and actually spraying

adamlee05

Last time...how exactly would YOU be planning on tuning this? Show me your retarding techniques that only activate when spraying. Oh yah, we're still using a J series ECU here.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

AEM FIC, when the nitrous is armed, the fic will be on it's secondary map (arming switch will activate the second map at the same time, so no "forgeting" to activate it)(fic will be controlling a solid state relay btw, so switching time will not be an issue), pulling timing when it is spraying (you can pick exactly where it will be pulling timing, also you can pull different amounts depending on the rpm/load and so on, if have a desire too

sbuswell

6 speed tranny
Type S block
3.5 lower end
all the bolt on's
Port matched PnP entire intake system
Extra engine bracing (ingalls possibly developing something for us)
Stand Alone EM- tuned right

Maybe you'd hit 300, but still a long shot. For cheap torquey speed get an 02 Camaro SS w/6spd or Trans AM WS6 and get ripped into the back of the seat.

Rejckt

iTrader: (2)

yah really... gl with that 300 wtrq.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

Seikoja

Thanks guys for all the help about tranny fluids and explain in detail y the factory oil is better. i really appreciate it. As for how am i goin to pull off 300lbs of torque im leaving the lid on that one for now. lets just say P2R is a major part of my build so all the credit will be goin to his genius set up. When it is complete i will let the cat out of the bag

Seikoja

its one thing i love about this forum is how you guys stray completely from the topic. if i didnt have a plan to make 300lbs of torque would i be worried about the tranny holding. dont try to analyze how am i goin to make that just stick to question at hand. this thread is not about asking how to make 300lbs of torque.

Seikoja

besides upgrading the cooler n running factory honda atf fluid n keeping a eye on the tranny fluid. do you guys have anymore recommendations?

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

not really, just that i don't think that tranny will last for any length of time, and probably will have to be rebuilt at some point, so save up for that at the same time, and don't be surprised when it takes a dump on you

Seikoja

thats words of wisdom....what about when i do the rebuild is there anythin i upgrade during that?

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

an experinced transmission rebuilder with the 4-speeds should know the weak points, and what to do to fix them,


but anyways a big one will be stonger clutch materials to start with, and opening up passages and such so the fluid can flow faster (and clutches engage faster), and little things like that, only thing i see is that you will be more of a pioneer in building the auto to take some power, so you might blow a few trannies in the process, while trying to find out what is needed to make it last (so might cost some $$$)


but GL with being able to make the auto last, and you need to keep us updated to how you make the tranny last



edit: also like i bought my 03 (so the 5 speed) knowing the tranny will have to be replaced one day, so i won't be that surprised to when to does take a dump, but i will still maintain it normally to try and make it last as long as possibe, but won't be surprised when it finally does so (maybe a little pissed, with haveing to do the labour, but once replaced i will be fine)

fsttyms1

YOU asked a question about fluid, and also put in the # 300 n.a torque. I simply asked how YOU planned on getting that number na because i was wondering if someone were pulling unknown numbers out of their butt. It didnt stray from the topic, but if someone makes a statement/claim like you did there are going to be people who are going to ask what i did. I was also involved on stating info on the fluid so Relax.

Seikoja

yo boss stop takin it so serious w u using all caps n ur treatful words like relax....lol... this is ur forum u been on here long enough to kno that if i had even hinted on how am i goin to make the power this thread would have turn from tranny help to how to do my set up correctly. thats all i was gettin at man. i would rather do a show n tell w some dyno #s.

Rejckt

iTrader: (2)

He will adjust the correction factor of the dyno to read high, put a cai and show 300 trq. Duh...