After trying to put on new pads and rotors i noticed that one of my calipers is completely seized, on a jack i would spin the tire and hit the brakes and it would show no signs of stopping the tire at all, it is the passenger rear caliper. I recently ordered a new caliper on Ebay which cost me 35 shipped it was a used OEM caliper off a top seller which i believe is maybe a junk yard in California. Just wondering if anyone has a DIY on changing the complete caliper? I couldn't find it in the DIY section, should i flush the brake system before taking apart the caliper? i know it can get messy if i don't. Any advice would help, Thanks in advance.

 

Its pretty easy to replace it:

0.- Remove Wheel.
1.- Engage E-Brake to Stop the Drum from Moving
2.- Remove the Brake Fluid Line from behind the Caliper
3.- Remove the Caliper Itself from Bracket you can Leave the Brake pads alone if they dont bind into caliper.
4.- Re-Install New Caliper into Bracket (Making sure to Re-Lube the Slider Pins) and brake Pads.
5.- Re-Install Brake Line with NEW WASHERS! and PURGE Brake Fluid.
6.- Put on Wheel and your Set!

You can Flush the Complete system or Only the Caliper your choice if you Have enough Brake Fluid.

 

ALWAYS FLUSH the entire system,,LF RF RR LR is the SPECIAL tl order

want to prefill the new caliper too, use squirt can and new DOT4 fluid
get 2 quarts to do the flush right
if one rear caliper bad so is the other soon
fluid being old and crusty is likely culprit,so you want all old fluid cleared out

 

I would install rebuild kit with new oring and outer seals on the caliper

used are risky

 

NOTE need 2 new crush washers,get right ones at dealer or parts store'
not a regular washer,,
torque spec 14lb iirc
one goes on each side of the banjo fitting of the brake line

 

after you remove the brake line cap it off so you are not losing too much brake fluid. it would suck if you have to re-bleed the master cylinder.

 

good point,,parts store sells $1 rubber plug for brake line

losing all fluid from master is major PITA to bleed out air

note DO remove most but not to the level of lines coming out master!!!
old fluid with turkey baster
then slowly add brand new dot4 spec brake fluid
reg or synth doesnt matter= your choice

should take min 2 refills of master per wheel when flushing
approx 1.5 qts total

 

There´s No need for caps or anything in the Brake Line just grab the Line and point it UP with some Zip ties or whatever you can Think off that will stop the Bleed about instantly... With no Pression only Gravity is in the Way..

If you Remove the Entire Brake Line from Chasis then you cant point anything UP so you will need a Cap, But for Servicing the Caliper you dont need to remove the Entire Brake Line anyway.

 

I dont like to kink brake lines,,,they are old,so the plug is good for that
it takes 1 second to install..less time than moving and zip tie

I would FLUSH the system then replace rear and bleed system as needed
good fluid is critical..old crud needs to come out

 

pointing the brake line up will not prevent it from draining as it is LOWER than the fluid in the master cylinder. This is why you got to cap it off.

 

DOH! I knew there was some science involved~

 

Thanks . i havent gotten around to do the brakes been very caught up with work and other stuff but i will definitely do it in that sequence and be aware of any more calipers on their way. I bought synthetic brake fluid im hoping thats a good choice?

 

Appreciate all the information, tomorrow i will be working on my car its been my one day off since i posted, been very caught up with my job and other things as well. Thanks again

 

special on TL when caliper removed- line open

afterwards go test at 45mph- do 2 ABS active stops to full stop
find gravel or water and swerve wheel wildly to make abs On and shake pedal under your foot,,standing on brakes as if to save your life
note pedal feel- firmness first stop
get back to 45 and repeat

If 2nd time had firmer better pedal =there was air trapped in abs controls
rebleed each wheel lf rf rr lr