My ac/heater just completely went dead yesterday after I change out the cabin filter. hopefully is the blower motor that need to replace and not anything else...driving during this time of the year is sux not to have heater and window defroster.

 

Ya could try the climate control's auto-diagnostics or ......just go back down and check the blower motor's fuse and wiring harness connection.

 

well my climate control work ( light is on ) and i just check on the wire harness connection that goes into the motor. the harness is in good condition no sign of melt or anything.
where is the blower motor's fuse locate at?
thanks in advance for all your help.

 

It's a big coincidence to go dead right after the cabin filter change. Very suspicious. Perhaps you moved the wires to the blower or to something else and a plug got dislodged from the contacts. I would really double-check this by seating all the plugs and wiggling around some wires while the heater control is on. But first check the fuse. Look in either of the fuseboxes by the front doors. It should be labelled. There is also a fusebox under the hood on the passenger side.

If that fails, put 12V across the terminals of the blower motor to confirm whether it works or not.

 

Here's some info I had saved a while ago:

If you are having A/C blower not blowing issues there are about 4 things that are easy to check.

1. The 7.5 amp mini blade fuse for the AC system in the fuse box on the driver's side on the side of the dash. There is a label on the cover to show you which one it is. If this is blown, the control panel for the AC will not light. If it lights, it is not blown.

2. The relay in the fuse box under the hood near the windshield on the passenger side. This also has a label that shows you which one it it but is is the biggest black box in the array. This relay sends available power to the blower when the ignition is switched on. It does not turn it on, it just send power to it. The A/C controls send a different signal to turn it on.

When you pull it out and look under it there are four prongs, two thin and two fat. The two small ones are hooked up to low amp 12 volts. That 12V is activated when the ignition is switched on. This energizes a coil which flips a switch to make the two fat ones connected. To test I put two banana clips with wires on the thin ones and touched the other ends to +/- on the battery. When I did, I heard a click (the switch flipping) and got continuity on my multimeter between the two fat blades. If it does not function you have to replace it. My dealer wanted $45 and had to order it but I don't have a part number.

3. Wiring harness under the glove box. If you lay on the ground in the passenger wheel well you will see the blower with wires connecting to it. Many people have reported melted connections. If you see melting, replace the harness. There is a service bulletin regarding this as well at: TSB 06-006

4. Transistor Control Assy issues. The transistor circuit board that controls the speed of the blower motor has a large blade shaped heastsink connected to it. This heat sink is inserted into the blower compartment so that is has A/C blown over it to keep it cool. You can find it by looking under the glove compartment right against the floor carpet where your toes normally go. It is a white piece of plastic held in by 2 hex screws and there is a wiring harness connected to it. It is easier to remove the harness if you remove the screws and pull the assembly out first. Just pry off the white plastic to get to the circuit board. This is part number 79330-S0K-A01.


If you do a search, you will find more info with pics others have posted.

 

While not a technical as the previous posts.

Pull your glove box out, as you did you did to change the filter.

Turn your ignition to accessory, manually turn the blower on.

Smack the general area firmly with the ball of you hand in a couple areas...

Sounds dumb, but I have had more ridiculous stuff work.

If it does start (or starts intermittently), double check all the electrical connections.

Could just be some gunk from the change flew in the motor, and it can't overcome it to start. (Ive had a similar problem w/ a fuel pump. Pulled it out, smacked it with a hammer, and hooked it up to power. Good to go, chucked it back in. That Civic is probably still running with that pump.)

 

............ .......Hey ya never know, ya may get lucky or ya may not !!! Some things will respond favorably to a firm whack.

 

So I went to AutoZone after work last night. I purchased the blower motor; connect the wire from the new motor to the wire harness. All it does is just click and move 1/16 of the turn and stop. Then I went back inside the store and return the unit and purchased the resistor. Hook it up and it work. The only thing I notice that the air coming out is not as strong as compare to my wife 08 Rx 350. Do you guys think I need to change out the motor 2?
i just want to say THANK YOU so much for all your input, you guys are AWESOME. Happy Xmass Eve to all of you guys and be safe

 

Every car can have a different blower motor or resistor pack connected to it. This will affect its output. Changing the blower will have no effect unless its internal bearings are worn which should make noise.

Glad to hear it was a simple solution.

 

Mine just did the exact same thing yesterday. I wiggled the plug that powers it. (passenger side, behind the glove compartment, to the right of the cabin filters). It seems to run most of the time now.

I still have to find a permanent solution when i find time. But should be no big deal.