indoMFP

Had a few questions about the brakes since I am going to be changing my rotors and pads this weekend again....

1. I read some of the other threads about the subject and they state that I should bleed the system prior to installing brake pads, rotors, or any other brake work. is there a reason for this? Why does it matter?

2. The resident shop guru, 01tl4tl, has posted in many threads that one is to bleed the system in this order, LF, RF, RR, LR, but i was always taught to do this from the farthest spot away from the driver and work toward the driver side... so RR, LR, LF, RF...I guess Acura specifies this order?

3. I noticed some rust inside my LR piston, is this a problem? I do not see any leaks or any other problems, but when i replaced the brake pads (about 1,000 miles ago without replacing the rotors, yes it was wrong, but I could not get the freakin' rotors off) the original pads were worn on the inside (side closest to the vehicle) all wrong... i assumed it was just a warped rotor as with the new pads, the wheel spins with some rubbing... Do I have a bigger problem?

4. When bleeding the brakes, what size hose does one need?

5. The manual recommends using DOT3, but some use DOT4...any reason for this?

fsttyms1

1. open the valve before you compress the piston, it will push out the fluid in the caliper first. You should bleed your brakes every year.

2. Yes he is right. On non abs systems (and those that still call for it) the old furthest from is the way you did it. On the TL its LF, RF, RR, LR

3.what do you mean "inside" the piston???. Do you mean the cavity inside the piston behind the pad?


4.?? off the top of my head. 1/4 or smaller.

Use what you read on the master cyl cap.

indoMFP

If the fluid comes out then don't I run the risk of introducing air into the system??

Yes, inside the piston (cavity)... I see rust spots... did not bother me as I assumed that rust was just from the rain and elements... but then I hear about hung piston and the such or a caliper failing... so I guess I am scaring myself... references were made to see a thread about your (Kris) hung caliper... can't find that thread to see what happened or the effects....

bibledriver

If you don't open the valve, you will be pushing bad crap back into the system. Open the valve, before you compress the piston. Bleed it when done with brake job (preferably prior to driving. And remember to set the pads before backing out too; pump the brakes a few times.)

Rust in cavity, no prob. One side(inside) wearing completely different from the other(outside), problem. When you replace your pads, clean and grease the rails that the caliper floats on so that it will have ~ equal pad force from either side. yes, could be a bad caliper too.

The hose is actually much larger on ours than normal. I will post when I get home (I have some there I bought just for that reason.). By appearance it seems to large.

indoMFP

That is what I am scared of... never took a caliper apart... so wouldn't know how to or where to start... I will take and post pictures of the brake pads... I assumed it was just a warped rotor causing it to wear all wrong....

fsttyms1

After swapping out the pads and such then you bleed them all. Opening it before you push the piston in helps so that all teh fluid in the piston gets pushed out instead of back up the line.

I had a hung caliper mostly due to age. If you were to see it on the outside of the piston edge behind the rubber seal then id be worried.

fsttyms1

Dont take it apart. Dont push on the brake pedal with the pads off or the rotor not bolted in place.
When you remove the caliper from its mount, grease the slider pins before reinstalling it.

Montaigne

You can just buy a new caliper. If you're going to be bleeding the brake fluid anyway, it's not big of a deal. One bolt if I remember correctly. Definitely clean the rails that the pads sit on.

indoMFP

That much I know... but I was going to just install the new rotors and brake pads and then bleed the system... but when I read that you should bleed then install, that is what got me questioning it... usually, I would just replace the pads, push in the piston and then commence with the brake bleed... Seeing as I never did a brake job on this vehicle, I wondered why the different process...

I will just remove the slider pins, clean and grease them... an old toothbrush and some brake cleaner should work hopefully...

Damn, calipers are expensive... even at the zone, they want ~$200 for one...


Another thing, I heard 01tl4tl tell someone to place a 2x4 under the brake pedal... will pressing down on the pedal really damage the seals or anything else????

bibledriver

Fixed

indoMFP

Was just going to follow this DIY... amending the bleed order... LINK

fsttyms1

You can get them a lot cheaper than that. Hell you can get remans from honda for under 80 bucks each.

black label

Screw the Zone, tire rack is your friend. They saved me about $200 over AutoZone when I did my Prelude brakes.

01tl4tl

fronts are 72.99 each and rears were about 85 each, rebuilt raybestos calipers
The small 2x4 is to keep you from pushing the brake pedal all the way to the floor during bleeding, and especially when helper pushes pedal really hard trying help get the air out--
thats not the correct way!!!!!
In normal operation the pedal does not push the piston inside the master cylinder that far.
Doing so can put the older oring in an unknown area and its possible to damage it- that requires a new master cylinder $100

Since we have ABS and sensative systems- and most ziners are finding the brake fluid has not been changed before now- its a good idea to do what you can to protect things.
Opening the bleeder slightly- like 1/4 turn is open- as you use whatever tool or your hand to slowly push the piston STRAIGHT back into its caliper-
the old fluid will squirt out the bleeder- with whatever crud has gathered there- and there will be some!
Then close the bleeder nipple.
When you add fresh fluid and start pumping the pedal to move it to the calipers, you wont be pushing backwash at the rubber oring for the caliper piston. The oring is really thin- I am surprised they last at all- let alone when moisture gets in the brake fluid- which it does- then gets compressed and moved thru the lines all the way to the caliper where it rust and guess what happens next

IF you are installing new SS lines- thats when I say to do them, and bleed- before doing the new pads and rotors,
Reason- the test procedure to make sure the ABS didnt get air stuck in the controller - which happened to me- is to do 2 stops with abs active from 45 mph- If the pedal gets better 2nd time- you had air- go rebleed the brakes
LF RF RR LR
Thats NOT the way to treat brand new pads and rotors- so I thinks its better to use the old stuff with new lines- everything is good- proceed to brake job and know there will be stopping power for sure.
If just doing calipers-rotors-pads- bleed it all when done- you want fresh clean nearly clear fluid- exception to certain hi performace-/ colored fluids

Cleaning the slider tabs- these are the metal plate that runs across the calipers bracket- they are gold colored on every TL I have worked on. Remove old pads- sliders/clips,lift up and off. Spray with brake cleaner and a rag wipes the druc right off- they will be shiny and smooth-- the part you grease is actually the small area where the tab the entends from the end of the pad- thats the contatc points- the tab to the small area it runs in
You do not need to grease the wide part of the slider where there is no parts contact
Just test fit things and look at the old parts where the wear marks are- Its worth the few minutes doing things perfect.