pokerbob72

im new to the acura tl world i have a set of back 18" wheels for my 2002 tl type s i want to up grade my brakes not sure about the whole slotted and drilled stuff but they sure would look good vs the rusty factory i have now i see alot of people talking about rotora or stop tech i dont want to break the back but i want it to look good and stop good lol!!any suggestions from people who have these setups i would realy appreciate it

Gfaze

I would look into buying Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors. They are great quality, well-made rotors that won't break the bank. They're also painted black on the hub and the outer edges of the rotor so that takes care of the rust look. I've got a set on the front of my TL that have been on there for about 20K miles with zero issues. No warping or paint flaking off and no noise.

piggylover1985

Don't buy the cheapest rotors from ebay as they will warp in a short time.

Gfaze

X eleventy billion!

You might as well leave your old ones on if you consider going the eBay route.

01tl4tl

I would use autozone or kragen rotors over ebay for reliable brakes at reasonable cost

For the caliper/bracket/rotor edges rust- get a duplicolor brake caliper paint kit $10, in black and have fun
Keeps them show quality nice for attending ziner meets!

soria

Check out brakemotive on ebay. He's a member/vendor here on azine.

I dont think he has black ones, but he has good prices. I'd just get the regular blanks.

pokerbob72

cool thank you. i just want a good look and quality brakes r the slotted or cross drilled rotors better or should i stick to the oem ones i like the way the slotted/cross drilled look but i dont want to risk quality for looks as this is the family daily driver but i just got some rims and i want them to look good and not see the rusted rotors and caliper behind.thanks for your imput

01tl4tl

even the most expensive rotors will get surface rust!
the way to prevent it is coat the metal with paint, like duplicolor hi temp `caliper paint`

slotted is bling for 90 percent of drivers- drilled bling for 95 percent
meaning those drivers will never use the benefits of the parts

OE brakes suck,
zone will sell oe equivilant quality, or kragen/oreilly has better- more performance oriented parts

cheap blank rotors drilled by someone with a cnc machine are a huge risk to your safety

get decent parts and the car will stop fine for everyday drivers
the paint will look good- see the many pics of ziners who have done it

piggylover1985

Just don't over paint the rotor where the pads apply :-).

01tl4tl

of course,, avoid painting the main rotor face or back-face,,,
the part where the pad touches on the normally shiny part of the rotor-

I knew I should have put that or a ziner would think wow cool toootallllly blacked out rotors....

Its ok to paint over the inner and outer edges of the rotor slightly (the pads dont touch all the rotor surface as you can see by rust on old ones)

new brake pads will make fast work of removing excess paint within a few blocks of use~

JDTL-S2002

Stoptech's got em for around $250 they are quality!

piggylover1985

Looks like mine, just different rims.

ParticleMan

hey jdtl, i'm in the market for new rotors and pads and saw your set, pretty sweet. how are they doing now, still good? you mind if i ask where you got them? was it online somewhere?

just trying to find some good breaks and a nice setup without breaking the bank. thanks for any help!

01tl4tl

try sending a PM
not everyone hangs on threads they have posted to~

ParticleMan

will do, thanks! any other suggestions similat to this style and quality?

03tLsNBP

iTrader: (9)

i have EBC black dash slotted rotors and i have no complaints so far. got them from www.placeforbrakes.com

if your budget is higher i recommend going with Racingbrake rotors and pads

ParticleMan

definitely can't afford racingbrake but i like the ebc d/s rotor with the red stuff. glad you like them, thanks for your input!

01tl4tl

whats your actual braking style- how much freeway 80mph to 20 OMG BRAKES!!!!! whoa that was close~ use, backroads thrashing, normal street driving, commute in stop and go 50 miles a day?

that will determine the best products for your needs and price range
cant go wrong with centric/stoptech for median price parts
drilled is bling more than slotted is! has applications for certain people only
also makes more noise and wears pads out faster
RB pads will work on any rotors and give excellent performance- I have et300s on kragen blank rears from china with no issues
Have done a comparison to HPS hawks and RB blows them away in my opinion

ParticleMan

i'm not a wild driver by any means. Truth is my car is over 9 yrs old, i've never changed the rotors before, and i'm just looking at a quality upgrade that'll hopefully last a while and be good quality. i've been looking around and i think i'm going to go with EBC drilled / slotted with red stuff pads. there's some discounts so hopefully it works out and i don't regret it later. hopefully no one's had any major problems with these.

thanks for the help!

01tl4tl

blank rotors are fine for you and cost less
iirc the green stuffs are street pads, and red more for agressive brakers

ParticleMan

yea i figured i didnt need them ill take another look thanks!

01tl4tl

probably most of us with the slots dont need them, but they do look very cool~

drilled is for VERY wet rainy conditions, or living on a mountain use= with little time for pad and rotor cooling between heavy use
Then you want all the cooling and drying abilty possible, in trade for pad wear and noise

totaledTL

EBC blanks w/ EBC OEM style pads are working well on mine, no issues but a little dust.

03tLsNBP

iTrader: (9)

from what ive heard green stuffs are meh. lotta fade and stuff. like you might as well get OEM. but the opinions on those pads are mixed so idk who to believe.

as for me, i got yellow stuff (ordered red stuff but was sent yellow for no extra cost. oh well) and theyre fucking nuts. already saved me from a couple accidents. did a 115-30 hard slow down and they gave me no issues. no fade no nothing. they squeal like a wildebeest under light braking though for the first 300-500 miles. but overall i love them.

sprute

Thanks very helpful

webmastir

ya. i keep putting this off. prob not the best idea, but i thought i'd be dropping 800$ into new brakes+rotors. it's nice to know that, since i'm not a hardcore racer & don't need top of line brakes, i can get cheaperish rotors that'll do their job just fine. (i drive & have to stop & go a bit in rush hour traffic).

one question: if i look up front/rear rotors & pads on autozone's website, it basically only lists Duralast products for both. are duralast products worth a shit (for a typical driver), and are they even any better than our crappy ass oem ones?

hANDYcaptd

iTrader: (5)

Anyone have access to their service manual and can look up the size of the front brake caliper bolts?

So far I've gotten 10x24 from acuraautomotive, which doesn't give me the pitch. I know it should be 1.5 or 1.25.

PN: 45240-SM4-003

Edit: Never mind. Found it. 14mm hex, M10x1.0, 24mm thread length. Guess I was off on the thread pitch.

01tl4tl

duralast are fine,,,, better than oe quality, I run them on the kids cars

As long as you dont track day the TL at local race tracks,,
you will be ok for street use

01tl4tl

handy- any story you want to share on the bolt issue?

I found some installed so hard-excess torque,,right from DEALER brake job~ that it ripped the threads out of the bracket and wrapped them onto the bolts!!

webmastir

awesome. thanks

01tl4tl

performance brake pads and rotors have specific bedding/break in instructions for each maker
ck websites and follow to rid that noise, get proper heat cycles, and final pad material transfer layer to the rotor--makes it stop better and pads last longer when done right

one time test of 130-20mph means its good,,
but
take it to a track day where every 10-15 seconds you go from full throttle to max braking, then back on the throttle to next corner, max late braking, dive into the apex and get on the gas again
lap after lap for 20-30 minutes solid
THAT will show who has the badass brakes!

Note1 change/flush brake fluid before and after track days
Note2 change brake fluid with brake job!!!
do it every year for best brake effort possible

webmastir

will make sure i do it properly. since i've never done brakes myself before, i'll get help from my step-father who has done his share of rotors/pad replacements on several different types of cars.
last question....
in a broad way of thinking: (yes i'll refer to diy of course) replacing our rotors/pads isn't much different than your typical other type of car, right? i.e: no crazy parts i have to deal with, following specified bleeding order etc

hANDYcaptd

iTrader: (5)

Yea, the caliper bolt broke this morning. Must've been way over torqued.

Hopefully the bracket is fine. I just need to get an extractor set to pull the rest of the bolt out.

totaledTL

There is a specific bleed order- check the DIY.

totaledTL

Is this something you do in your TL? If so, you haven't toasted your transm. yet?-
Or just speaking in general?

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

STOPTECH/Powerslot is definitely a good choice. I'd match it up with STOPTECH Performance pads. Good performance, good quality, great price.

http://store.excelerateperformance.com

webmastir

ya, i typed what i meant the wrong way. i'll follow that for sure. i make sure like 20x that i do something the proper way before attempting. thanks though


looks enticing. i wonder how much more worth it those are over the basic duralasts i was thinking of getting from the zone. mind you, im on a budget & just do your typical highway/some city driving

VIP typ-S

I'v had Stoptech d/s rotors with Centric ceramic pads for over 3 years and have had NO problems what so ever. Remember to flush your brake fluid every 2 years ! Just my

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

what he said !!!

powerslot + stoptech OR

powerslot + HAWK HPS

01tl4tl

web& reminder to all:
flush/bleed order--suggested to be done before brake work so crud is not backwashed into system = damaged orings

and done annually to protect expensive parts that are getting old
wiki hygroscopic for why and you will change all the fluids!!

LF= driver front, then clockwise around the car- as viewed from seated driver position
LF RF RR LR
use DOT 4 normal use or DOT 5.1 (racers) fluid

NEVER straight 5.0 which has silicones that are bad for our systems