Soon I need to replace the pads and rotors on our 03 TL, along with changing the brake fluid (I use a PowerBleeder, makes the job easier).

I did this on my other vehicle and the service manual had a specific order of bleeding calipers, along with a few other "tips" (unplug ABS solenoid, etc)

I assume there is a specific order for the TL as well....anyone know the order? Any other things that need to be followed/unplugged?

Thanks in advance.

-Chris

 

LF, RF, RR, LR. Nothing to unplug or any thing.

 

thats from drivers view- LF = driver front, then clockwise around the car.
very low pressure required
expect a qt or so to do a full job

Watch the speed sensor wires, tie caliper from suspension with zip tie during rest of work
Need Impact screwdriver for rotor retaining screws- often very hard to remove without~

Tip for all:
Do the brake fluid flush, then the brake job- so crud doesnt get backwashed around compressing the caliper piston and damage its oring seal= caliper faiuire

 

Thanks for the info.

I actually do the flush AFTER the brake job, but to compress the pistons I open the bleeder and then compress....so any garbage goes right out the bleeder instead of into the caliper back up to the master cylinder.

I took off the left front wheel, and noticed that the bottom caliper slider bolt is REALLY REALLY tough to turn. Anyone else have that happen? I seem to remember the same thing happening on my 2000 Accord when I had it. Except for the TL I have to remove the whole thing to get the new rotors in....any tips on how to do it? I was thinking Kroil, but was worried about its interaction with the brake parts. On top of that I figured an impact wrench to take the bolt off, but worried about snapping it off....any ideas?

Thanks.

-Chris

 

Thats about all you can do is work it free and hope it doesnt snap.

 

i really need to do this. yesterday on my way to school my pedal went to the ground (i wasn't even going fast) and i could feel ABS pumping. i checked my fluid, it's full but it is DARRRRRk. i think it's time for new pads, fluid flush, and SS brake lines. MAYYYYBE legend calipers, but it's all dependant on when my GI Bill check comes in. GRRRRR

 

chris- thats fine too- as long as the old fluid doesnt get backwashed.
Most people may not understand the open the bleeder method to retract pistons.. and not getting air in that way-
if you can do it- more power to you!

 

wait till you guys see the pics of my RB ET300s- after wife mentioned some brake noise....
Past the wear slot, down to almost see-thru pad-- at 1MM,,,shiny tip of squeeler tab
Min spec 2mm...... oooooops

at least the driver side had 2.1 mm remaining and not tripped the squeeler tab yet

oh yeah- the driver tire General Exclaim (25kmiles) had cord showing on inner edge and pass side not far behind..alignment way off~
I am trying a different brand tire now and will report

 

Occasionally I do end up with air in the system, but I get about as much mileage out of pads as is recommended between fluid changes (30K), so I just change the pads out and then powerbleed the system.

If I didnt have access to a PowerBleeder it would be a difference case, but its so easy to do I just call it part of changing my brakes.

 

thats good advice
I try to get people aware of hygroscopic action and the need for annual fluid changes

Its easy once you understand whats happening

now that I changed the RB pads all out for a scuffed set of HPS -that used to be on the car-
I can make a fresh comprision of pads,,and do the brake fluid flush- its been a year

 

i thought you always bleed brakes furthest from the master cylinder? I just bled mine and i went from rear passenger rear driver front passenger then drivers... maybe i did it wrong? i still got get new rotors!

 

the TL has a special order due to the ABS plumbing
go back and redo the flush or bleed to be sure all the old fluid is gone

driver front, passenger front, passenger rear, driver rear- done

 

Yeah I was about to bleed my other car in the order I thought made sense, but decided to check the service manual first....lo and behold its completely different than what I thought it would be. The TL is even easier, my i30 called for left front, right rear, right front, left rear. Kinda a PITA (I had already done the brake job)

For the TL Im going to reset the caliper piston, new pads and rotor, bleed a corner. Move on to next corner, repeat. That way I dont have to reinstall the wheels just to take them off again to power bleed.

 

When I replaced my rotors and calipers I had the same problem with the caliper on the DF. How bad? Broke a Craftsman socket. Didn't just break it. The socket shattered and a small piece the size of a dime shot off like a bullet and hit the siding on my house. It sounded like a rifle shot. Went to Sears, got a replacement, and went back and was able to finish the job.

Becareful and good luck!