ace2525

I'm going to be waxing my '99 TL this weekend. I'll be washing it/drying it & pulling it into the garage to be waxed before i go back to school..

any recommendations on wax? I'm just applying it by hand...

also any tips? what do you usually use to wipe the wax off and how long do you leave it on the paint?

Thanks, Nick

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

For the money I have had goodluck with Mother Carnuba CLeaner wax. But I usually use Megs Tech Wax. Its about $16 at local auto stores and $15 at walmart

01tl4tl

See the Off Topic section Wash and Wax for 100000 tips!
Its worth doing a full claybar and color clean treatment (20$ kit)
and then 3 coats of wax
I like carnuba for ease of application and being less of a dust magnet than some hi tech wax
Have fun~

If you are storing the car- run seafoam in the vac line until smoke comes out the exhaust then shut car off- same as doing normal treatment- then park the car- the engine internals are are well protected until you return.

ace2525

no i wont be storing the car...i will be using it at school.

i looked at claying the car but i dont have the time/patience and i dont want to mess up my car b/c i dont have any money to fix it. plus i have zero supplies.

i think ill just pick up some meguirs wax and a terry cloth and wax it after i wash it. Plus im going up to Albany and when it snows u cant even tell what color or how shiny ur car is, all winter haha.

01tl4tl

terry cloth- you mean like a bath towel- NO NO
those are the main cause of swirls and scratches

Clay bar- you cant go wrong unless way too many beers first
We recently did my 01, 3 guys -3 hours at a casual pace and it looks like new car!
Thats including break time and waxing and buffing a coat of carnuba afterwards too.
The next day was more carnuba and the power buffer

The idea is to remove the surface contamination so that the wax can grab onto the paint
Otherwise its just sitting on top of the rough layer on crud on top of the paint you can feel with your hand. If the surface is not smooth- you're not really protecting the paint- just the tree sap on top of it

fsttyms1

https://acurazine.com/forums/wash-wax-23/

Honestly, if your going to do a half assed job, why do it at all?? Take teh time and do it right

fsttyms1

I dont think that would even make a difference.

ace2525

ok ok so if i go with claying i have to pick up a clay bar...a lubricant?...and what do you use to take off the clay?

then

ace2525

ok ok so if i go with claying i have to pick up a clay bar...a lubricant?...and what do you use to take off the clay?

i looked at the DIY for claying and its kinda confusing

fsttyms1

get teh kit, it comes with the spray.

ace2525

what brand is the kit? where can i get it? aid auto store or auto barn?

01tl4tl

Pre-Winter tip
Wax any painted surface where a rubber seal meets it- like door frames and trunk seal
Then Silicone Spray lube- wipe onto all rubber seal surfaces that meet metal you just waxed
Now you have a stick free surface in freezing temps-

this is also a good time to remove each wheel and grease the hub so it does rot in place and you get a flat in the snow- you can get the wheel off

01tl4tl

any parts store- meguiars comes with a nice cloth in the kit
you still need a seperate purchase, finish wax-
you can buy the items seperate too- ask for help- they hide the claybars

the claybar kit has a bottle of spray detailer/lube, bottle of color paint cleaner
a little plastic container with claybar-
this is like play-doh or silly putty, you knead it in your hands to make warm and sticky-
roll a small finger sized and shaped piece- as wide as your 4 fingers
place it across your fingertips.
Spray the lube/detail spray and rub gently
Turn the clay and knead as it picks up stuff, keep spraying- if clay drags- use more spray
The box has good instructions inside
You only pull off small bits of new clay to use- not the whole bar at once
When it feels smooth- - wipe with special cloth
Do areas 1 or 2 foot square- small is better so you make sure to do a good job
Once the whole car is done- open the bottle of color cleaner- and wax the car with it- hand buff each section, Now take a break and enjoy the look, ok , back to work- apply finish wax
and buff - do a section at a time or all this stuff dries in place
When you wax- some rock chips will snag wax so you know where to touch-up paint, and there may be a few places where there are scratches or little nicks- just claybar them again.
Wax, wash to remove residue, wax again -repeat as necc.

VoLLy

iTrader: (8)

I use Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax. Works like a charm.

ace2525

does the clay kit come with the special cloth?

t0ast

pick up a pack of microfiber clothes. you use one for claybar and some to apply wax and dry. think of claybaring as using an eraser - erasing the junk.

and seeing you have a dark TL, if you wanna spend a little, get a complete kit from Zaino. its gives amazing shine and a "deep" look on dark cars.

carl m

i know i'm new here, but i've picked up lots of detailing tips along the way with my previous Audi A4.

as for claying (prior to any wax or sealant):

wash the car with dish soap instead of car wash soap... this helps remove any old wax.
...don't do this in the sun.
while the car is still wet, and you still have a bucket of soapy water, clay the car using your wash mitt to slop more soapy water on areas that aren't wet enough. you don't have to use some magical clay lube ($$$). it's okay to use the whole bar of clay. the idea is to re-knead the ball every so often to expose a clean(er) section of clay. knead the ball out into a flat-ish blob and run it over the paint with a bit of pressure. not too much, but not so lightly that you aren't getting any scrub action. the clay contains a very fine grit that will remove any surface dirt or contamination. paint shops use this stuff to help remove overspray, hence it's sometimes called "painter's clay." you should feel or hear the clay picking up the grit with a scratchy sound, and eventually the clay will glide smoothly over the surface. when it glides smoothly, move on to the next area. the hood, roof, trunklid, and rear of the car will be the worst, you should barely have to do the sides. if you drop the clay on the ground, really be careful that you haven't picked up any dirt, because then you'll scratch your paint. if you do drop the clay, wipe off any dirt the best you can, pick out any small pebbles, and re-knead the clay.

once you're finished, best to do a quick re-wash of the car to rinse off any loosened dirt that the clay didn't pick up.

then, you have clean paint to work with, but be advised that it is now no longer protected by any wax. at the least, you'll need to re-apply wax before going driving around.

as a sidenote, i find that genuine sheepskin wash mitts are the best at avoiding swirl marks. wash only front to back, not in circles. frequently dip the mitt in the wash bucket to loosen any dirt.

for drying, i typically use a california water blade to get most of the water off the car, then finish dry with a large "big blue microfiber towel" from properautocare.com. again, front to back motions and not in circles.

brand of clay doesn't really matter much in my experience, but i guess i tend to prefer the blue "Clay Magic" brand, which you can usually find at most parts houses.

always happy to share detailing tips...

02type-s

I use Zymol wax on the paint and Zymol leather cleaner and Zymol conditioner.

kuzdu

Hey ace2525 pm me if you want me to buff your car.....i am in Queens, and trust me when ur car is done it will look like a mirror

ace2525

i picked up mothers california clay bar paint saving system for $19 @ Pepboys...it has a 80g clay bar, 16oz showtime instant detailer (lube), & 4 oz carnauba cleaner wax...

I'll just use the spray detailer and clay bar after i was my car...clean it off with a microfiber towel that i have and then do my usual wax job.

Thanks guys.
and thans kuzdu but i have all week off next week so ill have plenty of time and patience to clay and wax my tl...i will be in queens friday though, going to the mets game! look for me, haha

ChrisQ1980

This site is great, they have great products that work very well at affordable prices. Whenever I order they always throw somthing in for free as well.

www.poorboysworld.com

I did a small detail this past weekend.
Products used:

-Poorboys Wash/shampoo
-Poorboys EX-P sealant
-Poorboys Tire shine
-Poorboys wheel sealant

01tl4tl

The reason I suggest using only part of the clay is when you drop it-(it will happen) if it hits dirt rocks bits of anything- its toast
So using 1/4 of the bar is a good size and not a terrible loss causing the job to stop
Maker says use paper under work area just in case of droppage

Agree with heavy washing before to remove wax, then clay bar and use the included color cleaner, then whatever choice of wax- love my CA wiper too

Most wax has a flash off time of 45 minutes till the stuff that makes it slippery goes away
then you can apply next coat- otherwise you melt coats together and you want buffed layers of wax for the depth of shine
Some of those new products are awesome
I have seen despers 05 with full zaino (thats who taught me claybar technique)
that thing is gleaming- but requires constant dust removal
You put the final wax on with your bare fingers- as a liquid from your hands- you massage your TL with zaino- cool~~

sbuswell

I personally love Meg's Mirror Glaze lineup. I use the Fine Cut Paint Cleaner, then the Showroom Glaze and then Hi-Tech Yellow Wax and that combo looks awesome! The Yellow Wax lasts much longer than the Meg's Tech Wax and brings out the color more IMO. Also only use microfiber or waffle weaver towels to remove wax as anything else will mar your paint to a degree. Patience is the biggest key to detailing.

CAB NY

mothers

fsttyms1

meguiars and what u use are teh bomb. i love the yellow wax!

kuzdu

no prob, remember to clay, user a cleaner wax, then a polish and seal it with a wax after that.

MikeekiM

I keep trying different products, and always end up comparing it to the ease and results of Klasse all-in-one...

It's not the multiple step process that many are using... But with a 18 hour a day job and kids, I need something that is reasonably quick and easy...with outstanding results... And Klasse has always done the job well for me...

And by quick and easy, I am still talking about spending a few hours on the car...so don't get me wrong...this is not about half-assing anything...

mcflyguy24

I agree with the use of dishsoap to give yourself a clean slate to work with, but you really use soapy water for the clay lube? It doesn't mess up the clay? Just curious.

carl m

yep, haven't had any issues with it. soapy water will keep the surface lubed just as well as "clay lubricant" will.

i started detailing with a whole laundry list of supplies. but over time, i've found that you can whittle out so many products and save yourself the money.

i use relatively cheap eagle one carwash soap for normal washes, and simple green for the wheels/tires/engine bay. i use genuine sheepskin wash mitts and have a couple different wheel brushes, but with the TL-S the wheels are really simple to clean (much easier than my 18" OZ Superleggeras were on the Audi). to dry, i have a Cali Water Blade and a microfiber towel. 2 wash buckets, one for car soap and the other for simple green and wheels. simple stuff. maybe a can of Tarminator if i have bugs that don't come off easily.

to finish off a good wash, i use invisible glass for the windows, cheap-ole Tire Foam for the tires, Plexus for the headlights and taillights, and Aerospace 303 for rubber window trim and such. i use Mother's mag and aluminum polish for the exhaust tips, but i don't polish those every time.

for detailing:
Clay Magic clay
Menzerna Power Gloss for really tough scratches
Menzerna Intensive Polish as a 1st polishing step
Menzerna Final Polish II for a 2nd polishing step
Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze for hiding any remaining blemishes
Menzerna FMJ as a polymer "wax"

i use a Porter Cable 7424 orbital buffer with an assortment of pads and such from ProperAutoCare.com.

for the interior, i use lexol/vinylex on dash and seats, and Blue Magic Carpet Cleaner for tough stains, and then Tuff Stuff with a stiff bristled brush for the rest of the carpets.

that's about it... the Porter Cable and the Menzerna stuff was the biggest investment. the rest of the products you can typically find at Wal-Mart or most any parts house.

Ellcapitan

Believe it or not, even plain water will work for claying (but soapy water is better).

I believe that, as far as a car's finish is concerned, less steps is better--in the interest of minimizing the likelyhood of introducing swirl marks. So along those lines, I'll usually skip steps (unless the car has been seriously neglected; then any shortcuts connot and will not apply).

Instead of: wash, clay, wash again (to remove detailer/lube), dry, paint-cleaner, polish, glaze, and wax-seal...

Usually I skip steps by: wash (and spot-clay while washing, if/where necessary), dry, cleaner-wax, sealer-wax.

Remember one thing: Method is way more important than which products you use. He who takes the time to do a good thorough job will get better results from the cheapest products, than he who half-asses it with the best products.

Having said that, synthetic sealer "waxes" typically last longer than natural waxes, so you'll have to do the job less often. The tradeoff (there's ALWAYS a tradeoff) is that natural waxes look better, when freshly applied, on darker vehicles (you'd be HARD-PRESSED to tell the difference on a silver car, though).

Another tip: Use a "wax-as-u-dry"-type spray wax in between real waxings, every time you wash the car, to get even more mileage out of your wax-job. This, of course, is no substitute for real periodic waxing, and these products typically don't last long at all, but used in this way, they're great for adding a little "pop" (and some extra life) to the wax/sealer already on the car.

carl m

good points.

you're right, real carnauba wax is stunning... but melts off with a quickness here in Hotston, Texas. that's why i like the Menzerna FMJ. before that, i used 3M Perfect-it wax.

some guys will layer a coat or two of carnauba on top of the polymer waxes for shows just to get that little extra wetness.

Luke7

I have a 99TL. It's almost 9 years old. People everywhere I go compliment me on how great it looks.
Several Rules:

1. I don't do the Clay, Cleaner of any kind to my car. I'd never take the chance of damaging the clear coat on my car. If you do start removing the clear coat=the paint underneath will be history in a short period of time.

2. I always wash the car with 4/5 buckets of clean water. Most people use one bucket of water, just adding more water to it. When you get to the end of your wash job, your just rubbing the car with water that's full of dirt. This is the single most important thing to do when you are washing the car.=CHANGE THE WATER IN THE BUCKET A FEW TIMES.


3. Have used Liquid Glass (available at AUTO ZONE) for $21.00.

http://www.liquidglass.com/

I have used this product for 25 years=it's the best. It will give your TL a slippery shine like no other wax product. I have used many others wax products before finding this one. The shine and protection it puts on your car is incredible. My 90 Accord looked fantastic when I sold it when it was 14 years old and the guy that bought it mentioned that he never saw a daily driver that looks as good as mine.
Liquid Glass will clean the car and protect it. Check out the web site. It's not a traditional wax. Goes on very easy and wipes off the same. Hope someone else has used this product and can attest to how it looks.

*************************IT’S INCREDIBLE. *****************************

Ellcapitan

Using 5 buckets of water may work, but it's wasteful and unnecessary. The correct way to wash a car is by using 2 buckets simultaneously. One with clean soapy water, and one with plain rinse water. You rinse your mitts in the rinse bucket to get the dirt off them then you dunk them in the clean bucket, and continue washing. This keeps the dirt from contaminating the soapy water (and the paint), and makes the soap last longer and work better.

While you might have had the right idea (but wrong method) with keeping your wash water clean, as far as claying and cleaning goes, you're COMPLETELY wrong. These things will NOT harm the clearcoat. The idea is to remove bonded surface contaminants, instead of sealing them in under a layer of wax.

Also, there is not THAT much difference in wax products these days (comparing sealers to sealers, and waxes to waxes). If you're finding that any one wax-type product is "incredible" compared to others, it can only mean one of two things: You weren't using any of the other products correctly, or the product you're using now has so much cleaner in it (something you said you'd never use), that it makes up for the fact that you refuse to pre-clean the surface in a separate step. If you properly clay and clean the surface, ANY car wax would yield AT LEAST as good results (and you wouldn't be grinding surface contaminants back into the paint with the wax applicator, risking introducing swirl marks).

BTW, do you REALLY think thar car waxes haven't improved at all, in the last 25 years?

fsttyms1

You wont damage your clear coat that easy. Clearcoat is far stronger than most give it credit. Not cleaning the surface thoroughly with something like claybar will cause more harm than not using it.

carl m

perhaps i wouldn't have been so harsh, but i agree with the above 2 posts. clay doesn't harm the clearcoat at all. the purpose of clay is to remove dirt and contaminants from the paint that won't come out with simple washing.

some of the heavier polishes WILL "cut" the paint, but you're not going to remove any significant amount of clear unless you really don't know what you're doing.

if you're happy with your results, that's all that matters. not going to rain on your game.

Luke7

Have you ever lived in Northern Ohio. Winter Salt/dirt/=the 2 bucket idea is just that. A bad idea. I have never seen a daily driver (1999) tl that looks better than mine/paint wise. What I posted works well/Period!

01tl4tl

People-!!! you are doing all this "claybar" ~ playdoh~ rubbing- with slick surface from whatever method- we are not talking about the hi speed buffer and the 130 grit sandpaper here- dont worry

Its easy- you get a back and forth slide going and it tells you when to move on
The directions with Megs says to wax without claybar first is a waste of energy and money- you want to wax on top of clearcoat- not bug residue

Its like when you prep to paint- a clean surface adheres better

01tl4tl

close up photos of cars and the orange peel look before claybar versus a car that has been done will show the value of your efforts

Then there is fsttyms1 who uses some pro level stuff with a buffer!

Ellcapitan

I hate to say this, but if you're washing your car by hand in the middle of winter, than that method is more problem-prone than could have ever been imagined. Wanna talk about "bad ideas"; what about the UNDER-CARIAGE? You're actually right, in the case of winter washing, you do need a lot of water, but to do it yourself in sub-freezing temp's is insane (and to wait it out for a warmer day usually takes too long--all the while, the layer of salt is eating at your clearcoat), and you're only doing half the job.

There's a general mis-trust of automatic car-washes among ppl who are even moderately serious about their cars' appearance, and it is understandable, since the brush-type ones definitely are prone to scratching! But, if you find a decent BRUSHLESS car-wash, one that also has an under-carriage wash, and go there often, after you've driven on wet (salt-coated) winter roads, you're far better off in the winter than (half)-doing it yourself.

So, while your paint might look good for ten years, the rest of the car is ROTTING OUT! I would know; I do live in the Northeast, and I see it all the time... I guess, if you're the type who never keeps a daily-driver car for more than ten years, though, you've got nothing to worry about...

Ellcapitan

^^PS: Lift the car up, and take a good look at the underside one day. I'll bet you'll see more rusty hardware than you'll care to admit.