Battery is dead or not
#1
Battery is dead or not
2003 TL3.2: parked outside for about 2 hrs; won't start when came back; keyless did not work; meter lights and exterior lights did not work; radio & power window did not working... BUT, step light on the door and inside reading light are working fine (no sign of dim).
Jump start works fine: all power operations work; radio requires code. Cannot start itself after 30-min driving. Jump start still works. Connectors on battery is dirty though, but does not look like it's a connecton issue.
Looks like I have a dead battery, but I am confused: [U]why the interior lights work perfectly well[/U]. Can anyone give me a quick answer? And a link about how to do battery change is appreciated.
(I'm out of town and cannot work on the car right now.)
Jump start works fine: all power operations work; radio requires code. Cannot start itself after 30-min driving. Jump start still works. Connectors on battery is dirty though, but does not look like it's a connecton issue.
Looks like I have a dead battery, but I am confused: [U]why the interior lights work perfectly well[/U]. Can anyone give me a quick answer? And a link about how to do battery change is appreciated.
(I'm out of town and cannot work on the car right now.)
#2
'13 Hyundai Sonata
Take the battery out and bring it to your local parts store and they can test it for free.
It sounds like a dead battery to me.
Just loosen up the + and - terminals, DO NOT LET ANYTHING TOUCH! remove the battery, and place new one in. It is a very simple fix.
It sounds like a dead battery to me.
Just loosen up the + and - terminals, DO NOT LET ANYTHING TOUCH! remove the battery, and place new one in. It is a very simple fix.
#3
Will test it once back home.
Isn't the interior lights also using the battery? How come they work fine? I'm really hoping it's just a dead battery.
BTW, I'm the 2nd owner since '06 and did not change the original battery, which has a label on it says "100 months guaranteed"...
Isn't the interior lights also using the battery? How come they work fine? I'm really hoping it's just a dead battery.
BTW, I'm the 2nd owner since '06 and did not change the original battery, which has a label on it says "100 months guaranteed"...
#4
thats great if you had the warranty paper for it/ original sales slip etc
For you- no warranty in most cases
The cabin lights take a minor amount of voltage, the car takes a huge amount to run the fuel injection system and all the sensors and computors
Clean the battery terminals- if corroded then the alternator cant recharge the battery
remove NEG first then pos- clean with sandpaper- pos then neg for install
if you have a charger at home put it on overnight- then take it to parts store.
or just take it to parts store and they will charge and test for free- places like oreillys/autozone
Also need to test the alternator and voltage regulator- parts store has a device they can test everything right in their parking lot--free
You should always get that stuff tested along with batt, and if you install a new battery drive it for 45 minutes with no load- no headlights or ac or radio, so it can get fully charged, then get system tested again
For you- no warranty in most cases
The cabin lights take a minor amount of voltage, the car takes a huge amount to run the fuel injection system and all the sensors and computors
Clean the battery terminals- if corroded then the alternator cant recharge the battery
remove NEG first then pos- clean with sandpaper- pos then neg for install
if you have a charger at home put it on overnight- then take it to parts store.
or just take it to parts store and they will charge and test for free- places like oreillys/autozone
Also need to test the alternator and voltage regulator- parts store has a device they can test everything right in their parking lot--free
You should always get that stuff tested along with batt, and if you install a new battery drive it for 45 minutes with no load- no headlights or ac or radio, so it can get fully charged, then get system tested again
#5
thank 01tl4tl. More info (my wife followed my instruction over the phone):
Battery terminals were cleaned; it did not help.
Here is what she observed (VERY STRANGE):
#1. Key on I position: radio works (I found the code) perfectly (CD, FM, AM), speakers are laud and clear -- no signs of battery problem at all.
#2. Key on II position: indicator lights up, very dim at first and then gradually bright up; fans start working, radio still works; at the same time there are lots of click sounds from everywhere (sounds like relay clicking); noisy power window and the right rear window even rolls down BY ITSELF!!!
#3. Switch key between I and II makes the noise stop, and indicator lights are bright, radio is laud.
#4. Turn key to III to start: hear a friction sound (sounds like "tsa...") and power is cut off (indicator light off, radio off, fans stop). Sometimes, just pressing brake pedal down can also shut off the power. Release key or brake pedal and it backs to #2.
I am almost certain it's not a battery problem. Maybe the electronic system is messed up. Is there a way to reset the whole thing? Disconnecting the battery (power) did not reset anything.
The repair bill can be big... my budget is a bit tight and hope this forum can give me some good leads/input.
Battery terminals were cleaned; it did not help.
Here is what she observed (VERY STRANGE):
#1. Key on I position: radio works (I found the code) perfectly (CD, FM, AM), speakers are laud and clear -- no signs of battery problem at all.
#2. Key on II position: indicator lights up, very dim at first and then gradually bright up; fans start working, radio still works; at the same time there are lots of click sounds from everywhere (sounds like relay clicking); noisy power window and the right rear window even rolls down BY ITSELF!!!
#3. Switch key between I and II makes the noise stop, and indicator lights are bright, radio is laud.
#4. Turn key to III to start: hear a friction sound (sounds like "tsa...") and power is cut off (indicator light off, radio off, fans stop). Sometimes, just pressing brake pedal down can also shut off the power. Release key or brake pedal and it backs to #2.
I am almost certain it's not a battery problem. Maybe the electronic system is messed up. Is there a way to reset the whole thing? Disconnecting the battery (power) did not reset anything.
The repair bill can be big... my budget is a bit tight and hope this forum can give me some good leads/input.
#6
Drifting
Make certain your battery is good (load tested after being charged), & the connections are tight, both ends of ea. cable. You can't always tell just by looking- get dirty & try to move them. Also if you charge the battery all night as mentioned be certain to use a low amperage floating type (will cut back the charge as the battery comes up) so it won't overcharge, which is bad for it. Low voltage conditions can make the electronics behave strangely.
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#8
especially the crazy electronics- = battery
the brake lights would add enough draw to kill it
Drive an hour on the new battery to fully charge it then have tested for free at parts store- alt is good etc
bad battery can kill an alternator as it tries to run the car
the brake lights would add enough draw to kill it
Drive an hour on the new battery to fully charge it then have tested for free at parts store- alt is good etc
bad battery can kill an alternator as it tries to run the car
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