SuperGreg

Hey all, I have an issue on my TL-S with vibration at certain speeds under acceleration. From everything I've read this is most likely caused by the inner CV joint. I have 230K on the car. I'm not sure which axle is the problem so I was planning on just replacing both.

I've seen that people say aftermarket axles are crap compared to OEM, but from what I see the price is around $300 for OEM vs. $40 for aftermarket. I'd rather not have to pay $600 for a set of axles. Hoping to get some feedback on the best cost effective option.

Thanks!

Iggy

FWIW, A few years ago I snapped one of my axles due to water/salt getting behind rubber dampener and rotting it out. I went aftermarket and returned it twice for vibration before going back to OEM. Haven't looked back since.

SuperGreg

Yeah, that's what I'm afraid of. Was it a new or reman?

Iggy

One was new and the other reman.

Just replace the one for now and worry about the other later.

SuperGreg

Well that sure seems to be the consensus looking around. Seems the only rebuilder who anybody recommends is Raxles, and they still want $220/axle. If I only replace one I'll need to figure out which one is bad. I'll go inspect each one, but I'm not sure if the wear on the inner joint that causes vibration is immediately noticeable by manipulating the joint. Any other tips would be appreciated. Thinking of mounting a camera or something and driving the car to see if I can tell which axle is vibrating.

SuperGreg

Just checked car-part.com and junkyard axles are ~$50. Tempting but would have to make sure it was in fact OEM and in good condition.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

The only non-OEM axles which typically get rave reviews are Raxles; I've used them in the past and cannot say enough good things about them.

frankjnjr

Haven't had an axle issue on my car yet, 238K KOW. I have sourced OEM low mileage used axles for friends, through HollanderParts.com. Many of their supporting yards, list both the mileage, many including a pic. of illuminated cluster, on the vehicle in question, as well as various pictures of the actual car itself. In my opinion, as far as axles are concerned, OEM New is preferred, with OEM reasonable mileage used, a close second, and REAXLE, third. FWIW.

SuperGreg

Well I just ordered two axles from HollanderParts.com from a TL with 140K miles for $100 total. Seems like the best option for the price.

SuperGreg

Just to follow up - I got the axles and I am a bit disappointed as the paint on the shafts is basically gone and they are rusty. Mine look like they are in perfect condition. I am glad I live in an area where we hardly get any rust on suspension parts.

The CV joints themselves though are in perfect shape. Once I got mine off the car and compared I can see now how much play there was on the inner joints, one much worse than the other.

This completely fixed the problem, car is smooth as butter now accelerating at 60+. If I had more time I would try moving the inner joints over to my shafts, which look to be in much better shape, but time is hard to come by now and I wanted this fixed asap.

frankjnjr

Hey SuperGreg, sorry to hear, you were disappointed in the appearance condition of the axles, from the Hollander represented yard. I should have mentioned a caveat, when I recommended them. Most of the yards I have dealt with, on the Hollander site, are more than willing to send you a pic., of the exact part you will be receiving. In the case of axles, many are removed,, sometime after the car hits the yard, and before the shell is rendered for recycle. These axles, may sit on the shelf for years, before there is a call for them. Did your axle come from a yard, located in, or around a rust belt state? Thankfully, they were serviceable, but I know what you mean, about installing a rusty looking part, when the one you removed, looked like new.