hi guys,

i've had this strange issue for some time now, particularly that my automatic window up/down feature does not work at all on the driver's side.

i've replaced the power window control module on the driver's side, and i also repaired a hasty/corroded soldered wire that (i think) repaired a splice from an old alarm install that had the auto window rollup module (i think it did, at least. i forgot, it's been some time).

it's a very strange issue. i am hoping someone here could give me some tips as to what could be the issue. there are no problems with the manual window feature at all.

i tried to reset the module with the door open and holding down the respective power window switch that i wanted to reset (before doing the 'hold it down after it goes all the way down. then hold it up after it's all the way up [for X seconds both ways]').

is it possible it could be a relay or something i'm missing? any tips would be appreciated.

thanks.

 

Check for pinched wires, especially in the subharness where it goes through the door hinge.

 

thanks for the tip man, but there don't seem to be any.

however, when i looked closer at the connector going into the power window control module, it seems that some of the wires are missing (? !!)

specifically, i noticed that some of the 'holes' where wires are supposed to be, are missing (pg 22-318, i think 13/16 were the column that stood out in particular).

ugh i'm going to have to yank one of these and hope it'll fix the problem. it should, but damn the installers made a mess ages ago. i'm happy it was confined to one feature, not so happy i have to yank a new harness. :/

thanks guys

 

actually i'm wrong, sorry!

looking at 22-327, that *is* how the wiring is supposed to be. my mistake was interpreting 22-318 as both the theoretical and physical diagram when it was only the former (and 22-327 the latter).

what in the hell is going on? i will yank the door harnesses anyways to find out if they are the issue (they could be)...

my passenger side also has some splicing/electrical tape covering some presumably-idiotic "feature" that i had on this alarm approx the time i registered on this site lol!

 

i should also add that when i do the reset via "open the door, hold the respective switch, and turn on ignition" i do hear an electrical whine/squeal coming from my power window master switch (driver's side), almost like it is trying to say "i got the command but something is wrong".

could be the switch, but i don't know because when i got the car back from the crash it just never worked.

• it seemed honda already prepared for the case where the car had 2-3" of snow, some of which potentially could fall on the switch when opening the door after a typical and mundane event in canadian winters (because even with a starter, people often store the brush for their vehicle in their car)

not sure though.

i figured if the switch was affected by water (snow), that it would have manifested in erratic operation of other features on the master switch, which i do not experience.

• it is exclusively this automatic feature and nothing else. window rolls up fine and has no issues)

 

replaced the driver's master switch, same mild whine when holding the driver's door window button down and turning on the ignition.

could not take out the door harness--didn't know it was actually fed through the door to the fuse panel under the driver's side, so that idea is gone.

is it possible that a honda PGM tester may be needed to 'reinstall' a feature such as 'auto window'? honestly, all the wires look fine after fixing the spliced one (and maybe i didn't even need to do that).

i figure if my SRS needs to get 'diagnosed' and reset (probably some crash data that they need to yank off the box in order to reset, as i replaced my module), i may as well tell them about this as well.

on the upside: i did manage to enlargen the speaker holes to accommodate my new speex. and i replaced the passenger side window regulator/motor, so there are some positives.

 

bump

yo ken,

i had a question: is it possible the issue could be the driver's multiplex unit?