Anyone have any input on these rotors?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Anyone have any input on these rotors?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Acura...QQcmdZViewItem
looks to good to be true. 4 drilled and slotted rotors 120$.
if anyone has any experience with these please let me know so i dont go waste my hard earned $$ on some POS rip off brand brakes
oh check these out too
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/01-03...QQcmdZViewItem
looks like they come in a brembo box but i just have trouble trusting people on ebay
so if anyone can bear witness to either of these please share your thoughts
looks to good to be true. 4 drilled and slotted rotors 120$.
if anyone has any experience with these please let me know so i dont go waste my hard earned $$ on some POS rip off brand brakes
oh check these out too
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/01-03...QQcmdZViewItem
looks like they come in a brembo box but i just have trouble trusting people on ebay
so if anyone can bear witness to either of these please share your thoughts
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 33,535
Likes: 1,142
Word/rumor is the Axxis brake pads suck for our application-noisy and lots of pad dust
Cross drilling should ONLY be done on very heavy, thick rotors on extreme use cars only, and then they must be specially designed for drilling from the start.
For our TLs:
Side Vents on the rotor are a good thing if you drive really hard and combined with
HAWK HPS pads www.hawkperformance.com and good rotors will make for sure stops
True rotor cooling comes from the inner vent extraction of hot air, not the alleged inflow of cool air from the side.
You may notice on race cars with cross-drilled there is always a large hose bringing air into the side of the rotor- not something found on stock Acura brakes
see www.racingbrake.com for full tech info on rotor construction and buy smart-
your very life depends on it! And maybe mine too!!
See the Off Topic section, Black Market area for our acurazine approved and proven reliable vendors for brakes:
Excellerate for Brembo rotors and EBC or Hawk pads
MrHeelToe for RacingBrake rotors and Hawk pads
Look at the cost of good rotors locally and then ponder how you can buy 4 modified rotors for so cheap.....
Brakes keep your car from suddenly becoming 2 feet shorter.
My vote is RacingBrake with Hawk HPS, they keep getting better the more I use them!
Cross drilling should ONLY be done on very heavy, thick rotors on extreme use cars only, and then they must be specially designed for drilling from the start.
For our TLs:
Side Vents on the rotor are a good thing if you drive really hard and combined with
HAWK HPS pads www.hawkperformance.com and good rotors will make for sure stops
True rotor cooling comes from the inner vent extraction of hot air, not the alleged inflow of cool air from the side.
You may notice on race cars with cross-drilled there is always a large hose bringing air into the side of the rotor- not something found on stock Acura brakes
see www.racingbrake.com for full tech info on rotor construction and buy smart-
your very life depends on it! And maybe mine too!!
See the Off Topic section, Black Market area for our acurazine approved and proven reliable vendors for brakes:
Excellerate for Brembo rotors and EBC or Hawk pads
MrHeelToe for RacingBrake rotors and Hawk pads
Look at the cost of good rotors locally and then ponder how you can buy 4 modified rotors for so cheap.....
Brakes keep your car from suddenly becoming 2 feet shorter.
My vote is RacingBrake with Hawk HPS, they keep getting better the more I use them!
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,661
Likes: 2
From: Bay Area, Ca
Originally Posted by Colorado J
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Acura...QQcmdZViewItem
looks to good to be true. 4 drilled and slotted rotors 120$.
if anyone has any experience with these please let me know so i dont go waste my hard earned $$ on some POS rip off brand brakes
oh check these out too
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/01-03...QQcmdZViewItem
looks like they come in a brembo box but i just have trouble trusting people on ebay
so if anyone can bear witness to either of these please share your thoughts
looks to good to be true. 4 drilled and slotted rotors 120$.
if anyone has any experience with these please let me know so i dont go waste my hard earned $$ on some POS rip off brand brakes
oh check these out too
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/01-03...QQcmdZViewItem
looks like they come in a brembo box but i just have trouble trusting people on ebay
so if anyone can bear witness to either of these please share your thoughts
You don't want to risk your life on $120 rotors (set of 4). Better spend a little more than sorry.
Not saying all items on ebay are bad but when coming to things that may impact your life, go with quality.
Just my $0.02
Senior Moderator
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 81,385
Likes: 3,068
From: Appleton WI
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Word/rumor is the Axxis brake pads suck for our application-noisy and lots of pad dust
Cross drilling should ONLY be done on very heavy, thick rotors on extreme use cars only, and then they must be specially designed for drilling from the start.
For our TLs:
Side Vents on the rotor are a good thing if you drive really hard and combined with
HAWK HPS pads www.hawkperformance.com and good rotors will make for sure stops
True rotor cooling comes from the inner vent extraction of hot air, not the alleged inflow of cool air from the side.
You may notice on race cars with cross-drilled there is always a large hose bringing air into the side of the rotor- not something found on stock Acura brakes
see www.racingbrake.com for full tech info on rotor construction and buy smart-
your very life depends on it! And maybe mine too!!
See the Off Topic section, Black Market area for our acurazine approved and proven reliable vendors for brakes:
Excellerate for Brembo rotors and EBC or Hawk pads
MrHeelToe for RacingBrake rotors and Hawk pads
Look at the cost of good rotors locally and then ponder how you can buy 4 modified rotors for so cheap.....
Brakes keep your car from suddenly becoming 2 feet shorter.
My vote is RacingBrake with Hawk HPS, they keep getting better the more I use them!
Cross drilling should ONLY be done on very heavy, thick rotors on extreme use cars only, and then they must be specially designed for drilling from the start.
For our TLs:
Side Vents on the rotor are a good thing if you drive really hard and combined with
HAWK HPS pads www.hawkperformance.com and good rotors will make for sure stops
True rotor cooling comes from the inner vent extraction of hot air, not the alleged inflow of cool air from the side.
You may notice on race cars with cross-drilled there is always a large hose bringing air into the side of the rotor- not something found on stock Acura brakes
see www.racingbrake.com for full tech info on rotor construction and buy smart-
your very life depends on it! And maybe mine too!!
See the Off Topic section, Black Market area for our acurazine approved and proven reliable vendors for brakes:
Excellerate for Brembo rotors and EBC or Hawk pads
MrHeelToe for RacingBrake rotors and Hawk pads
Look at the cost of good rotors locally and then ponder how you can buy 4 modified rotors for so cheap.....
Brakes keep your car from suddenly becoming 2 feet shorter.
My vote is RacingBrake with Hawk HPS, they keep getting better the more I use them!
Quick question, do you know what slots and drilled holes are for?
I do, im just checking.
What your problem is?
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 4,811
Likes: 5
From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Quick question, do you know what slots and drilled holes are for?
I do, im just checking.
I do, im just checking.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 33,535
Likes: 1,142
Kris- If you mean me (paranoid)
Yes I do know the what where and why and about the slots and holes and various patterns. Anyone can buy/lease a CNC machine and buy some cheapo rotors, punch in fancy looks, all without the knowledge to provide the structure needed!
Wanna talk ball end chamfer vs countersunk and the resultant stress factors and failures?
Did I mention my Dad designed bridges and tunnels?
And people wonder why I insist on triangles and buttress bracing in my car!
When you apply the brakes a friction is created and transmuted into heat, which is then extracted.
NOTE You cannot cool anything- only EXTRACT heat and introduce cooler air to replace it
If you want to cool your car off on a summer day after being parked, start driving, roll the back windows down with the AC on high, it will suck out the hot air and pull cold air thru the cabin area.
During the time of pad contact with the rotor- especially hot from driving hard-systems, there is a major gas pressure built up on the surface of the pad when apllied to the rotor. It is possible to become so much that it actually pushes the pads back away from the rotor, VERY bad for braking!
The side vents allow the gas a place to escape as the rotor rotates. They also scrape a minute amout of surface material- pad/debris etc as the turn so always clean and ready.
The HAWK HPS front brake pads have no center cut-out (the rears do) so having rotor vents really helps them- they are a pretty good size pad
Because our cars have backing plates behind the rotor, it is difficult to bring cold air into them from either the inner or outside edge and expect it to go THRU the rotors to cool them.
Race cars remove most or all of the backing plate or attach a hose to a hole cut in the backing plate for that reason
The really cool tech feature that seperates RacingBrake from all others is the inner set of cooling vanes, from the center hub to the rotor edge.
First they are curved versus straight vanes in others- even so called directionals are just like the stock TL rotors- straight inner cooling vanes
This is an upgrade they do to some of the rotors they make- we are lucky enough to get them!
On the RB-They are wider at the inlet-center of rotor hub and narrow as they reach the outer edge. This compression heats and speeds the airflow
By spreading heat from the inner edge to the outer and maintaining its temp- you reduce temp fluctuation across rotor surface, a major stressor to rotors
For those wanting more tech talk read www.racingbrake.com
Does that explain it well enough?
Yes I do know the what where and why and about the slots and holes and various patterns. Anyone can buy/lease a CNC machine and buy some cheapo rotors, punch in fancy looks, all without the knowledge to provide the structure needed!
Wanna talk ball end chamfer vs countersunk and the resultant stress factors and failures?
Did I mention my Dad designed bridges and tunnels?
And people wonder why I insist on triangles and buttress bracing in my car!
When you apply the brakes a friction is created and transmuted into heat, which is then extracted.
NOTE You cannot cool anything- only EXTRACT heat and introduce cooler air to replace it
If you want to cool your car off on a summer day after being parked, start driving, roll the back windows down with the AC on high, it will suck out the hot air and pull cold air thru the cabin area.
During the time of pad contact with the rotor- especially hot from driving hard-systems, there is a major gas pressure built up on the surface of the pad when apllied to the rotor. It is possible to become so much that it actually pushes the pads back away from the rotor, VERY bad for braking!
The side vents allow the gas a place to escape as the rotor rotates. They also scrape a minute amout of surface material- pad/debris etc as the turn so always clean and ready.
The HAWK HPS front brake pads have no center cut-out (the rears do) so having rotor vents really helps them- they are a pretty good size pad
Because our cars have backing plates behind the rotor, it is difficult to bring cold air into them from either the inner or outside edge and expect it to go THRU the rotors to cool them.
Race cars remove most or all of the backing plate or attach a hose to a hole cut in the backing plate for that reason
The really cool tech feature that seperates RacingBrake from all others is the inner set of cooling vanes, from the center hub to the rotor edge.
First they are curved versus straight vanes in others- even so called directionals are just like the stock TL rotors- straight inner cooling vanes
This is an upgrade they do to some of the rotors they make- we are lucky enough to get them!
On the RB-They are wider at the inlet-center of rotor hub and narrow as they reach the outer edge. This compression heats and speeds the airflow
By spreading heat from the inner edge to the outer and maintaining its temp- you reduce temp fluctuation across rotor surface, a major stressor to rotors
For those wanting more tech talk read www.racingbrake.com
Does that explain it well enough?
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Senior Moderator
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 81,385
Likes: 3,068
From: Appleton WI
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Kris- If you mean me (paranoid)
Yes I do know the what where and why and about the slots and holes and various patterns. Anyone can buy/lease a CNC machine and buy some cheapo rotors, punch in fancy looks, all without the knowledge to provide the structure needed!
Wanna talk ball end chamfer vs countersunk and the resultant stress factors and failures?
Did I mention my Dad designed bridges and tunnels?
And people wonder why I insist on triangles and buttress bracing in my car!
When you apply the brakes a friction is created and transmuted into heat, which is then extracted.
NOTE You cannot cool anything- only EXTRACT heat and introduce cooler air to replace it
If you want to cool your car off on a summer day after being parked, start driving, roll the back windows down with the AC on high, it will suck out the hot air and pull cold air thru the cabin area.
During the time of pad contact with the rotor- especially hot from driving hard-systems, there is a major gas pressure built up on the surface of the pad when apllied to the rotor. It is possible to become so much that it actually pushes the pads back away from the rotor, VERY bad for braking!
The side vents allow the gas a place to escape as the rotor rotates. They also scrape a minute amout of surface material- pad/debris etc as the turn so always clean and ready.
The HAWK HPS front brake pads have no center cut-out (the rears do) so having rotor vents really helps them- they are a pretty good size pad
Because our cars have backing plates behind the rotor, it is difficult to bring cold air into them from either the inner or outside edge and expect it to go THRU the rotors to cool them.
Race cars remove most or all of the backing plate or attach a hose to a hole cut in the backing plate for that reason
The really cool tech feature that seperates RacingBrake from all others is the inner set of cooling vanes, from the center hub to the rotor edge.
First they are curved versus straight vanes in others- even so called directionals are just like the stock TL rotors- straight inner cooling vanes
This is an upgrade they do to some of the rotors they make- we are lucky enough to get them!
On the RB-They are wider at the inlet-center of rotor hub and narrow as they reach the outer edge. This compression heats and speeds the airflow
By spreading heat from the inner edge to the outer and maintaining its temp- you reduce temp fluctuation across rotor surface, a major stressor to rotors
For those wanting more tech talk read www.racingbrake.com
Does that explain it well enough?
Yes I do know the what where and why and about the slots and holes and various patterns. Anyone can buy/lease a CNC machine and buy some cheapo rotors, punch in fancy looks, all without the knowledge to provide the structure needed!
Wanna talk ball end chamfer vs countersunk and the resultant stress factors and failures?
Did I mention my Dad designed bridges and tunnels?
And people wonder why I insist on triangles and buttress bracing in my car!
When you apply the brakes a friction is created and transmuted into heat, which is then extracted.
NOTE You cannot cool anything- only EXTRACT heat and introduce cooler air to replace it
If you want to cool your car off on a summer day after being parked, start driving, roll the back windows down with the AC on high, it will suck out the hot air and pull cold air thru the cabin area.
During the time of pad contact with the rotor- especially hot from driving hard-systems, there is a major gas pressure built up on the surface of the pad when apllied to the rotor. It is possible to become so much that it actually pushes the pads back away from the rotor, VERY bad for braking!
The side vents allow the gas a place to escape as the rotor rotates. They also scrape a minute amout of surface material- pad/debris etc as the turn so always clean and ready.
The HAWK HPS front brake pads have no center cut-out (the rears do) so having rotor vents really helps them- they are a pretty good size pad
Because our cars have backing plates behind the rotor, it is difficult to bring cold air into them from either the inner or outside edge and expect it to go THRU the rotors to cool them.
Race cars remove most or all of the backing plate or attach a hose to a hole cut in the backing plate for that reason
The really cool tech feature that seperates RacingBrake from all others is the inner set of cooling vanes, from the center hub to the rotor edge.
First they are curved versus straight vanes in others- even so called directionals are just like the stock TL rotors- straight inner cooling vanes
This is an upgrade they do to some of the rotors they make- we are lucky enough to get them!
On the RB-They are wider at the inlet-center of rotor hub and narrow as they reach the outer edge. This compression heats and speeds the airflow
By spreading heat from the inner edge to the outer and maintaining its temp- you reduce temp fluctuation across rotor surface, a major stressor to rotors
For those wanting more tech talk read www.racingbrake.com
Does that explain it well enough?
Thats what i was going to say but a little less technical on my end.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,186
Likes: 9
From: Arizona
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Thats was about as non technical as I could get!
I told you, I only look this stupid so no one ask me for directions!
I told you, I only look this stupid so no one ask me for directions!
LOL, you let your secret out. People are gonna start asking you questions and directions
I do really appreciate all your help and advices you given me about brakes...thats why I went with the RB and Hawk HPS combo from Heeltoe. I highly recommend those two combos.
B A N N E D
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,141
Likes: 0
From: Huntington Beach, California
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Thats what i was going to say but a little less technical on my end. great info 01tl, really wish you explained that before i got my cheapie rotors. great info on releasing t he heat out your car in the summer too! ill be look foward to more of your "directions" if you're willing to not appear stupid
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,661
Likes: 2
From: Bay Area, Ca
Dunno man ! You could try them out but word of caution ... you get what you paid for ...
Originally Posted by Colorado J
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Acura...QQcmdZViewItem
looks to good to be true. 4 drilled and slotted rotors 120$.
if anyone has any experience with these please let me know so i dont go waste my hard earned $$ on some POS rip off brand brakes
oh check these out too
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/01-03...QQcmdZViewItem
looks like they come in a brembo box but i just have trouble trusting people on ebay
so if anyone can bear witness to either of these please share your thoughts
looks to good to be true. 4 drilled and slotted rotors 120$.
if anyone has any experience with these please let me know so i dont go waste my hard earned $$ on some POS rip off brand brakes
oh check these out too
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/01-03...QQcmdZViewItem
looks like they come in a brembo box but i just have trouble trusting people on ebay
so if anyone can bear witness to either of these please share your thoughts
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 33,535
Likes: 1,142
vzup
The extra bracing I was talking about is the Lower Frame Stiffner and the OS Upper Strut Tower bar from Cusco- Marcus at MrHeelToe has them
There are several other bars Cusco makes (not listed in regular USA book-someone sent marcus a link of Japan bars asking if he can get them) so Marcus has a call in to get availabilty and prices for us.
I saw pics of a rear strut tower bar, one for the trunk floor and another that goes across the rear passenger feet area- if he can get those I am set!~
Keeping the frame tight keeps the suspension much closer to where you set it.
On your rotors, you didnt really spend more than any local store price for rotors and now, when you want to upgrade, you know what parts and how easy it is to do.
The extra bracing I was talking about is the Lower Frame Stiffner and the OS Upper Strut Tower bar from Cusco- Marcus at MrHeelToe has them
There are several other bars Cusco makes (not listed in regular USA book-someone sent marcus a link of Japan bars asking if he can get them) so Marcus has a call in to get availabilty and prices for us.
I saw pics of a rear strut tower bar, one for the trunk floor and another that goes across the rear passenger feet area- if he can get those I am set!~
Keeping the frame tight keeps the suspension much closer to where you set it.
On your rotors, you didnt really spend more than any local store price for rotors and now, when you want to upgrade, you know what parts and how easy it is to do.
sooo 01tl4tl.... i have this little river going thru my backyard and i wanna make a little bridge.. and seeing as your dad and all... haha jk man, but thankx for the great info on the brakes and especially cooling the car!!!
im pretty much saving up some money to get a set of RBs and Hawks. i only hear good things bout them!
so quick question, is it fine to keep the stock rear rotors and pads while running the RB & hawks combo up front?
im pretty much saving up some money to get a set of RBs and Hawks. i only hear good things bout them!
so quick question, is it fine to keep the stock rear rotors and pads while running the RB & hawks combo up front?
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 33,535
Likes: 1,142
slavv
Unless that river in your yard is at least 1000 feet wide, can't help you on design.
Perhaps I can interest you in a subway station some 300 feet below your house?!
I am currently running the NAPA auto parts -American made version, not the imported-
rear rotors- under 20 bucks each. Was on a budget at the time needed, and they were a real score
Have Hawk HPS pads with them and the wear looks fine and no issues
The OE pads are not great and the Hawks were only $58 for the rears
On the front I have RB rotors and Hawk HPS from Marcus at MrHeelToe $306
70% of the TL braking happens with the front brakes.
At some point I will swap the rears to RB just because I drive way different than most humans, and I dislike the rust forming on the center hub. The RB are coated with a black something special and always look good.
I think ~most-not all~ anything is better than OE- they buy what they can for cheapest price not best quality
Unless that river in your yard is at least 1000 feet wide, can't help you on design.
Perhaps I can interest you in a subway station some 300 feet below your house?!
I am currently running the NAPA auto parts -American made version, not the imported-
rear rotors- under 20 bucks each. Was on a budget at the time needed, and they were a real score
Have Hawk HPS pads with them and the wear looks fine and no issues
The OE pads are not great and the Hawks were only $58 for the rears
On the front I have RB rotors and Hawk HPS from Marcus at MrHeelToe $306
70% of the TL braking happens with the front brakes.
At some point I will swap the rears to RB just because I drive way different than most humans, and I dislike the rust forming on the center hub. The RB are coated with a black something special and always look good.
I think ~most-not all~ anything is better than OE- they buy what they can for cheapest price not best quality
haha damn, a subway station home? no shit, those come with a garage for the tl? cuz i mean, if anything happens, id like to keep my ride clean and whatnot lol
hmm, thanks for the info tho, my rears are still in good shape, so no biggie. how bout the calipers for the front rotors, if i get those RB and hawks, recommend chenging them too or the stock ones fine?
hmm, thanks for the info tho, my rears are still in good shape, so no biggie. how bout the calipers for the front rotors, if i get those RB and hawks, recommend chenging them too or the stock ones fine?
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