NighthawkBlack

I have had these on for a while and yet I feel like the bite much better but only when the pedal is close to the end. Does everyone elses kits feel this way? Should I use different fluid? I am pretty sure there is no air in the lines since acura blead the system. Any ideas? I have stainless steel lines in the rear.

Lou

Im about to install the 12.4 on my 02' Cl-S anything that you can tell on what to expect. I love the way they look but I really need something more than that to convince me they are worth the money.

Thanks
Lou

NighthawkBlack

Sorry I dont remember what stock felt like. Its best to do a side by side comparison with a stock CL and one with Brembos.

1999TL

pics. pics. pics.

Lou

mine aren't installed but soon

NighthawkBlack

Its really easy to do. I did it myself. Only thing is you had better be sure of is that the wheel's spokes you are using WILL clear the caliper . You had better measure before you start taking things off and leeking brake fluid. If you aren't doing them by yourself, THEN MAKE SURE THE MECHANIC DOES THIS UNLESS YOU KNOW FOR FACT THAT THE WHEELS CLEAR

To do that take one wheel off. Then Remove the bolts for the stock Caliper without disconecting the line for it. Use a metal wire hanger from the dry cleaners to tie through the Stock caliper and hang it up above on the strut somwhere it is out of the way.

Remove the hardware that keeps the stock Caliper in place. Now you should just have the disk. Use the apropriate impact screw driver to remove those 2 screws that keep the OEM rotors on. AN Impact Screw driver is a non power hand tool that looks like a screwdriver that you hit on the back with a hammer. IF YOU DON"T USE THAT TOOL YOU WILL HAVE A HELL OFF A TIME CUTTING THOSE SCREWS OFF AND DRILLING AFTER YOU STRIP THE HEAD WITH A REGULAR SCREWDRIVER OR IMPACT SOCKET WITH SCREW BIT.

Now you should have just the bare gub after you pull off the stock rotor. Your OEM caliper shoud still be somwhere beneathe the car or up and away by the top of the strut. Now you can hand tighten the Bembo bracket and only slide on the Bremo Caliper without even putting the rotor on. Once its sitting there put your wheel back flush with only 3 nuts and lightly tighten the lug nuts just to get the wheel flush on the hub. Spin the wheel and by hand and see if the spokes touch the Caliper, thats assuming you could even get the wheel on which I could not.

These are all mistakes I made which were not the end of the world, but made the project much harder and time consuming then necessary. The impact scredriver thingy is like 20 bucks at sears. Everything else you probably already have. ONE LAST THING, DO NOT MIX UP THE ROTORS AND CALIPERS FOR THE LEFT AND RIGHT. KEEP THEM IN THEIR CORRESSPONDING BOX AND DO ONE AT A TIME OTHERWISE YOU WILL BE GUESSING FOR HOURS ON WHICH SIDE AND WHICH WAY THE ROTOR GOES. INSTRUCTIONS HELP BUT ITS EASY T GET CONFUSED.

NighthawkBlack

I have a question for anyone who installed these already. Hey Lou let me know if this is the case with your install. The calipers slide on a peice that has two shafts with screw threads at the end. This bracket holds the Caliper in place. Its too is painted black but one side is finished smooth while the other is cut flat and rough. Now I would think the smooth side goes away from the rotor and the flat side goes flush mount againts the hub area but the only way mine fit was turning that bracket around so that the nice side is against the the hub area ie: would get scratched and the unfinished side would go out towards the strut king off facing the engine. Was that the case with yours because it doesnt seem logical but brembo said they dont design the brackets for finish just to be functional and they only fit one way. My brakes have been on for over 6 months so I just wonder in the back of my mind.