Another group buy for SPOILERS (whoo hoo!)
#1
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Another group buy for SPOILERS (whoo hoo!)
Hey guys. I gave Ron (guy who gave groupbuy last time) a call today, he wasn't there but his secretary is going to talk to him tomorrow about this group buy. Check out this link (http://www.acurainspired.com/forums/...showtopic=2737), and after you've read it lemme know who's interested and i'll make a list. Thanks. -shawn
#2
(hahaha...heard this one before, Giovanni??!) :)
the only spoiler i would really be interested in for a group buy (or for purchase at all, for that matter) would be the Mugen spoiler -- or replica.... the little chrome Mugen badge doesn't mean a thing to me... i just love the look... does this guy make replica Mugen wings?
#4
Kollage is funn!
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alright- talked to ron and his prices for spoilers are:
ANY TL color.
$178 painted and shipped for the spoiler ask for ABS plastic spoiler
$40 for the torsion bars (optional) for the extra weight to make the trunk open more swiftly.
$15 extra for the CLEAR LED
there isn't a minimum amount of people needed for this group buy.....luckily, because it doesn't look like many people are interested.....
CALL: (877) 230-1192 tell them you're part of the group buy for TL spoilers. MENTION My name, shawn and tell em what you want.
PM me with any questions.....thanks.
ANY TL color.
$178 painted and shipped for the spoiler ask for ABS plastic spoiler
$40 for the torsion bars (optional) for the extra weight to make the trunk open more swiftly.
$15 extra for the CLEAR LED
there isn't a minimum amount of people needed for this group buy.....luckily, because it doesn't look like many people are interested.....
CALL: (877) 230-1192 tell them you're part of the group buy for TL spoilers. MENTION My name, shawn and tell em what you want.
PM me with any questions.....thanks.
#5
Originally Posted by shawn744
alright- talked to ron and his prices for spoilers are:
ANY TL color.
$178 painted and shipped for the spoiler ask for ABS plastic spoiler
$40 for the torsion bars (optional) for the extra weight to make the trunk open more swiftly.
$15 extra for the CLEAR LED
ANY TL color.
$178 painted and shipped for the spoiler ask for ABS plastic spoiler
$40 for the torsion bars (optional) for the extra weight to make the trunk open more swiftly.
$15 extra for the CLEAR LED
As a note... The trunk lid has a counterweight bolted into the trunk lid. I think you could just remove this weight after installing the spoiler to keep the overall weight close to stock. Saves you $40 anyways. You just have to remove the trunk trim (which has to be done anyways to run the LED power wire). I removed the counterweight after installing the spoiler and the stock bars worked nearly the same. The lid ends up being just a tiny bit heavier feeling than stock. Its not really noticable tho and still opens/closes fine.
Another note - you need a torsion bar removal tool to remove the bars. He has these for $15. Anyone local to central MA is welcome to use mine if they want to save the money. The bars can be swapped out in just a few minutes.
#6
Kollage is funn!
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Originally Posted by keeena
Yup, those are his standard spoilers. They fit very well and his paint matching is great (for my ABP anyways).
As a note... The trunk lid has a counterweight bolted into the trunk lid. I think you could just remove this weight after installing the spoiler to keep the overall weight close to stock. Saves you $40 anyways. You just have to remove the trunk trim (which has to be done anyways to run the LED power wire). I removed the counterweight after installing the spoiler and the stock bars worked nearly the same. The lid ends up being just a tiny bit heavier feeling than stock. Its not really noticable tho and still opens/closes fine.
Another note - you need a torsion bar removal tool to remove the bars. He has these for $15. Anyone local to central MA is welcome to use mine if they want to save the money. The bars can be swapped out in just a few minutes.
As a note... The trunk lid has a counterweight bolted into the trunk lid. I think you could just remove this weight after installing the spoiler to keep the overall weight close to stock. Saves you $40 anyways. You just have to remove the trunk trim (which has to be done anyways to run the LED power wire). I removed the counterweight after installing the spoiler and the stock bars worked nearly the same. The lid ends up being just a tiny bit heavier feeling than stock. Its not really noticable tho and still opens/closes fine.
Another note - you need a torsion bar removal tool to remove the bars. He has these for $15. Anyone local to central MA is welcome to use mine if they want to save the money. The bars can be swapped out in just a few minutes.
#7
Counterweight is centered on the lid and at the front edge (near the rear window). It can very easily be seen once the trim panel is removed. Its held on w/ 2 ~10mm bolts. I would post a pic but you really cant miss it. OH - btw, you'll proabably break a lot of those trim panel fasteners that hold the trunk lid trim on...the little plastic teeth on the fasteners tend to bust off. I'd suggest getting a bunch of new ones from the dealer or Autozone. I don't think theres any way to prevent them from breaking...it just happens. Pull one out and you'll see what I mean.
LED comes w/ a very long lead. You run it thru a 3rd hole in the lid on drivers side (this hole is covered by the "foot" of the spoiler...you have to drill this hole). I would cut open the factory wiring loom in the trunk lid (there is wiring there for the trunk latch) and run it w/ these wires. This wiring loom runs down the trunk lid hinge and then to the left of the drivers side shock tower. You can tap into the brake light wiring anywhere - I would tap into the exising 3rd brake light wires myself. Wire colors are:
White w/ black stripe is positive
Black is negative
Make sure you have the right ones. To make it simple, just continue to run the LED wires right to the brake light on the rear deck. Fool proof. Its just a bit longer than picking it up at the wiring plug in the trunk area (which has many other wires which might confuse you if you don't feel like testing for the right wire).
And ANOTHER tip - put a couple quick disconnects at the spoiler or at the trunk lids factory wiring loom. This will let you easily remove the spoiler w/o having to cut the wire. ALSO - leave ~6" of slack in the LED wire near the spoiler - it will be a pain to remove the spoiler if theres no slack in the wire.
To disable the factory 3rd brake light on the rear deck, just pull the bulbs out. Don't cut the wiring...you never know if you'll want to go back to stock. Makes life easier.
From what I remember the trunk DOES pop open a few inches if you add the spoiler and remove the counterweight. There are 2 positions for the torsion bars - 2 notches in the metal brackets. One provides a little more force than the other. The notch which is further towards the rear of the car is the stronger position I believe. I would use this one. Mine was already like this stock, but its worth checking. You WOULD need the torsion bar tool to change it.
I dont have torsion bars any more so I cant tell you exactly for sure how far it opens - I have gas struts now. I needed to permanently remove the bars because they were in the way for my subs on the rear deck.
Damn, long posts. It will help ya tho.
LED comes w/ a very long lead. You run it thru a 3rd hole in the lid on drivers side (this hole is covered by the "foot" of the spoiler...you have to drill this hole). I would cut open the factory wiring loom in the trunk lid (there is wiring there for the trunk latch) and run it w/ these wires. This wiring loom runs down the trunk lid hinge and then to the left of the drivers side shock tower. You can tap into the brake light wiring anywhere - I would tap into the exising 3rd brake light wires myself. Wire colors are:
White w/ black stripe is positive
Black is negative
Make sure you have the right ones. To make it simple, just continue to run the LED wires right to the brake light on the rear deck. Fool proof. Its just a bit longer than picking it up at the wiring plug in the trunk area (which has many other wires which might confuse you if you don't feel like testing for the right wire).
And ANOTHER tip - put a couple quick disconnects at the spoiler or at the trunk lids factory wiring loom. This will let you easily remove the spoiler w/o having to cut the wire. ALSO - leave ~6" of slack in the LED wire near the spoiler - it will be a pain to remove the spoiler if theres no slack in the wire.
To disable the factory 3rd brake light on the rear deck, just pull the bulbs out. Don't cut the wiring...you never know if you'll want to go back to stock. Makes life easier.
From what I remember the trunk DOES pop open a few inches if you add the spoiler and remove the counterweight. There are 2 positions for the torsion bars - 2 notches in the metal brackets. One provides a little more force than the other. The notch which is further towards the rear of the car is the stronger position I believe. I would use this one. Mine was already like this stock, but its worth checking. You WOULD need the torsion bar tool to change it.
I dont have torsion bars any more so I cant tell you exactly for sure how far it opens - I have gas struts now. I needed to permanently remove the bars because they were in the way for my subs on the rear deck.
Damn, long posts. It will help ya tho.
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#8
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Shawn how many people are on the list so far? I definitly want one so mark me down for the ABS spoiler, clear led and the torsion tool not the arms. Thanks
#9
Originally Posted by keeena
I dont have torsion bars any more so I cant tell you exactly for sure how far it opens - I have gas struts now. I needed to permanently remove the bars because they were in the way for my subs on the rear deck.
#10
Kollage is funn!
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Originally Posted by Tunaboy
Shawn how many people are on the list so far? I definitly want one so mark me down for the ABS spoiler, clear led and the torsion tool not the arms. Thanks
KEEENA- thanks for the info....so as of now i'm not planning on getting the torsion bars....i don't mind lifting my trunk a little....i'll buy em later if i change my mind. do you think acura will have those clips in stock for sale?....just confirming, they're the clips that hold the carpet like trim on the trunk LID itself. thanks. -shawn
#11
shawn I am very interested in getting this spoiler for my 2001 tl-p. It would be Naples Gold with the red LED. I just want to make sure this is exactly like the factory spoiler, and if you say the paint is better, then it should last a long time correct?
The only reason I would want it from the dealership is because it does have the ACURA name on the bottom, and I could just bitch to the dealer if something goes wrong with the spoiler.
Lastly, why does autocarparts.com list their acura tl spoiler for $489.00? It says Acura Genuine, does this mean it is the one the dealer would put on? here is the website
http://www.autocarparts.com/part/422/0/
Thanks.
The only reason I would want it from the dealership is because it does have the ACURA name on the bottom, and I could just bitch to the dealer if something goes wrong with the spoiler.
Lastly, why does autocarparts.com list their acura tl spoiler for $489.00? It says Acura Genuine, does this mean it is the one the dealer would put on? here is the website
http://www.autocarparts.com/part/422/0/
Thanks.
#12
Originally Posted by GoldTL
Lastly, why does autocarparts.com list their acura tl spoiler for $489.00? It says Acura Genuine, does this mean it is the one the dealer would put on? here is the website
http://www.autocarparts.com/part/422/0/
Thanks.
#13
Kollage is funn!
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yes, the dealer would install that OEM spoiler......
BXSCIG- is there ANY advantage to buying an OEM for $500??
not that i even would (i'd rather get a 6000k HID conversion for my fogs)....just askin.
EDIT: and COULD something go wrong with the spoiler? no right? besides like paint problems.....which don't usually happen.
BXSCIG- is there ANY advantage to buying an OEM for $500??
not that i even would (i'd rather get a 6000k HID conversion for my fogs)....just askin.
EDIT: and COULD something go wrong with the spoiler? no right? besides like paint problems.....which don't usually happen.
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