Air conditioner recharge?'s
#1
Racer
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Air conditioner recharge?'s
Anyone ever do a recharge? any hints? have done it before on other cars just not on the Mack-ura. use the high or low side?
#7
Acura TLS are SLOW
Take it to the dealer. You need a special machine to charge the system. When they charge your A/C, All the old refrigerant has to be recovered, air and moisture will be vacuum from the system, then the final step is to charge it up.
Dont bother with them little hand grenades that are sold at pepboys. its a waste of money.
Dont bother with them little hand grenades that are sold at pepboys. its a waste of money.
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#8
Originally Posted by MotionEffects
Take it to the dealer. You need a special machine to charge the system. When they charge your A/C, All the old refrigerant has to be recovered, air and moisture will be vacuum from the system, then the final step is to charge it up.
Dont bother with them little hand grenades that are sold at pepboys. its a waste of money.
Dont bother with them little hand grenades that are sold at pepboys. its a waste of money.
#9
Acura TLS are SLOW
Originally Posted by optomos
The only time you do all that is if your system has a leak or you have to open the system to repare or replace a part. Otherwise you just check to see how low it is and add the right amount.
#10
Thats what the receiver/drier is used for "besides storage" and is replaced when the system has been opened for a long time or due to a leak. I don't know who told you that bro, but all that does is put more money in their pocket.
#11
Acura TLS are SLOW
Oh, I didnt mean that it doesnt need to be replace. What i ment was, IF the receiver/drier goes bad where the condescent can't absorb anymore moisture, water will eventually circulate throughout the whole system. And back to the statement before, if the system is not recovered and vacuum, there will be excessive moisture in the line and will quickly deteriorate the receiver/drier.......leading to compressor failure................
#12
thank you, fla-tls.
I believe if you think freon is low, check it. have your ac running, look at the low side freon glass, if there are a lot of bubbles, then it is low. When recharging, you need to watch the bubbles and the moment the less bubbles show on the glass, you stop charging it. If you wait too long, you will overcharge it.
I believe if you think freon is low, check it. have your ac running, look at the low side freon glass, if there are a lot of bubbles, then it is low. When recharging, you need to watch the bubbles and the moment the less bubbles show on the glass, you stop charging it. If you wait too long, you will overcharge it.
#13
6G TLX-S
I don't think you can DIY on recharging R-134a A/C like in the old days when you can buy R-12 bulbs in the auto stores. You'll need a A/C recharging machine to do the job.
#14
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Originally Posted by Edward'TLS
I don't think you can DIY on recharging R-134a A/C like in the old days when you can buy R-12 bulbs in the auto stores. You'll need a A/C recharging machine to do the job.
#15
There is a alot of misinformation above.
If you are low on refrigerant, there is a leak, period. Ideally the leak should be located & repaired. That being said, refrigerant is alot cheaper than the repair cost if the leak is minor.
If the refrigerant has leaked out completely (zero pressure in the system), the system must be repaired, evacuated, leak tested then charged by weight & tested for correct operating pressures. If the system has been at zero pressure for any amount of time, it is recommended to replace the receiver/dryer.
Moisture is the enemy of the system, it will freeze at the low operating tempertures. Air is equally problematic. It is non condensible and will significantly decrease the performance of the system. To remove these contaminants, the refrigerant is recoverd, system evacuated to a very deep vacuum level, held to check for leaks, then and only then charged with refrigerant.
Moisture cannot enter a charged system, that is something I've never heard of in 20 years of experience, (licensed refrigeration service engineer, universal refrigerant license holder).
Refrigerant can however leak out through the hoses especially older R12 hoses converted to R134. Leak testing is involved, many points to test. Typically a halogen leak detector is used to locate minute leaks.
If you decide to do it yourself, recommend reading up before trying anything on an AC system. Read through the threads and/or search this site:
http://www.acsource.net/acforum/
If you are low on refrigerant, there is a leak, period. Ideally the leak should be located & repaired. That being said, refrigerant is alot cheaper than the repair cost if the leak is minor.
If the refrigerant has leaked out completely (zero pressure in the system), the system must be repaired, evacuated, leak tested then charged by weight & tested for correct operating pressures. If the system has been at zero pressure for any amount of time, it is recommended to replace the receiver/dryer.
Moisture is the enemy of the system, it will freeze at the low operating tempertures. Air is equally problematic. It is non condensible and will significantly decrease the performance of the system. To remove these contaminants, the refrigerant is recoverd, system evacuated to a very deep vacuum level, held to check for leaks, then and only then charged with refrigerant.
Moisture cannot enter a charged system, that is something I've never heard of in 20 years of experience, (licensed refrigeration service engineer, universal refrigerant license holder).
Refrigerant can however leak out through the hoses especially older R12 hoses converted to R134. Leak testing is involved, many points to test. Typically a halogen leak detector is used to locate minute leaks.
If you decide to do it yourself, recommend reading up before trying anything on an AC system. Read through the threads and/or search this site:
http://www.acsource.net/acforum/
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2003, 996, ac, acura, air, conditioner, conditioning, county, dutchess, evacuation, freon, mdx, recharge, recharging, tl